Chapter GMW | E30 LS1 (starting on post #1427)
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Just to see what the damage is.
I have all of the bolts off of the oil pan. It still is really tight on the transmission side even with loosening the two lower trans bolts. Do I need to pull the trans to get the pan off?? Help!!
The front of the pan is loose and while I was hitting it with a rubber mallet you can definitely hear something metal bouncing around in there. I think it is the oil pump sprocket by the sound of it.
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@DrLeadFoot
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Trans inspection cover gets removed to get the last few screws out. Hope the results come back okay
Is that the sheet metal piece that can only be removed by removing the trans?
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@DrLeadFoot
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Thank you!
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@DrLeadFoot
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Nope its the bottom half of the bellhousing, cast aluminum piece. Held on with a few inverted torx bolts
I don't have an access panel on the trans. I'm going to loosen the trans a lot more and see what happens.
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@DrLeadFoot
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Snap is thinking the bowl reinforcment that the 12v engines have. 24v doesn't have this. You should not have to loosen the transmission. Are you sure it is not just RTV "gluing" it on?
I'll give it another good prying. I was getting nervous about breaking it before.
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@DrLeadFoot
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As long as you got all of the bolts out it should come off, use a putty knife to work it off of there. I'm sure you did, but double check the perimeter for any bolts that you could have missed. There are a couple at the back that are long if I remember right that go into the rear main seal housing but they are the same diameter as all of the rest. If you still have trouble I have a spare oil pan that I could take a pic of.
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I just found my motivation. Just raced a Viper on the freeway in the M3. Needless to say I need a turbo in my life at all times. Sunday is go time.
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@DrLeadFoot
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^ H3 GON3
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Finally! As I suspected but a little worse. Must have had loosened up and was turning it at weird angle so it sheared off. #powerproblems #havearaceshopbuilditnexttime
What was in the bottom of the pan.
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@DrLeadFoot
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I think this is the best option.
http://store.bimmerworld.com/gsr-m52m54-four-bolt-oil-pump-shaft-p2210.aspx
@DrLeadFoot
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Glad you got the pan off. The chain driving the oil pump is a different one from the cams, right? Any oil analysis results yet
There are two different chains. One guy on R3V said that the tensioner would have been affected but the tensioner only touches the timing chain not the oil pump chain. I'm confused about that.
No results yet since I haven't mailed it. The sample I took won't be 100% accurate because, as you know, you need to heat up the oil and mix it up. I took the sample when the oil was about half way done draining. I will be monitoring the oil closely from here on out just so I know when to replace my bearings.
@DrLeadFoot
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Are you anticipating a rebuild/new bearings kind of no-matter what? Or making a decision based on the results?
Based on results. The oil was newer and I caught it pretty quick I think. If it is okay I will shout the praises of Royal Purple from the mountains. A little worried about my turbo shaft play doe.
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@DrLeadFoot
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note to self....
never turbo anything, ever
drive camrys till the day i die
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Why wasn't this nut welded when it was put together at the very minimum? Knowing that these are known issues its something that shouldnt of happened in the first place. Also many many people go with the vac motorport oil pump upgrade which includes a hardend oil pump shaft. I don;'t know about the one you posted but that is an option as well. But do as you please. Also some of the older m50's have chain tensioners on the oil pump chain. Yours does not. Again some opt and add a Euro oil pump chain guide/tensioner or a s54 chain tensioner for the oil pump. Not 100% needed but something id consider if you are reving it high often.
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