ClassE 1989 325IS Build Thread
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If you don't mind sharing, how much did the paint job run you? looks like it turned out pretty good.
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If you don't mind sharing, how much did the paint job run you? looks like it turned out pretty good.
I think the price was very reasonable. IIRC he only had the valence, front bumper, passenger fender, passenger quarter, and passenger door painted. The rest is original=)
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If you don't mind sharing, how much did the paint job run you? looks like it turned out pretty good.
They only painted the passenger side and front, drivers side and rear are all original paint. Paint shop was alittle under $2000, and I supplied all the replacement body panels needed (PS door, fender, front valance).
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I also had them prep and respray the underside of the hood in preparation for bay work next winter. The entire door needed to be replaced and internals swapped over - which apparently was a pita. Both of those added a bit to the cost.
When it comes to paint work - I'll only have Inline Autobody in Oshkosh touch my stuff. The owner Kurt has been doing stuff for me for years and does great work.
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Well.... Might have found the culprit for my slight grinding from rear. Not sure:
Rotated wheel ends from both sides - couldn't hear anything troublesome, only noise was a slight "whine" from diff. So put new pads in passenger side and reassembled - turned over to same results. Put rotor back on drivers side and turned over by hand. "GGRRIIINNDDD"
Ruh-oh
Checked to make sure ebrake was fully disengaged, rotated again and got the same sound. Removed rotor and found these on inside of rotor:
2 separate cracks, about 60 degrees apart. I swapped rotors side-to-side and got same grinding.... So not sure if it's the issue.
Shoes are seated firmly against backing plate, springs seem to be under good tension, and brake appears to be operating normally. There was some heat cracking on shoes - but not excessive wear.
Thoughts?
Don't have a lot of experience replacing shoes/springs, so will have to do some research in the AM.
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That ITB setup would be fantastic! That car must be horridly slow or obnoxious to drive though
How do you figure?
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The M20 is quite well optimized out of the box and in my opinion the two areas where people go horribly wrong on NA M20 builds is changing to a piston which does not match the squish area of the combustion chamber and not taking advantage of pressure wave tuning on the intake manifold.
-short runner length/no plenum
-low air velocity at low rpm with itbs
-large camshaft required to match intake selection
-high compression pistons required to keep static and dynamic compression ratios happy due to large cam
-pistons without the proper squish area due to the requirement to have high compression as well as valve clearance due to large cam
It would be like disabling the VTEC system on a honda. It's removing the secret sauce that makes it perform the way it does.
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