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  4. ClassE 1989 325IS Build Thread

ClassE 1989 325IS Build Thread

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  • ClassEC
    ClassEC
    ClassE
    wrote on last edited by
    #269

    I also had them prep and respray the underside of the hood in preparation for bay work next winter. The entire door needed to be replaced and internals swapped over - which apparently was a pita. Both of those added a bit to the cost.

    When it comes to paint work - I'll only have Inline Autobody in Oshkosh touch my stuff. The owner Kurt has been doing stuff for me for years and does great work.

    1 Reply Last reply
    0
    • ClassEC
      ClassEC
      ClassE
      wrote on last edited by
      #270

      Well.... Might have found the culprit for my slight grinding from rear. Not sure:

      Rotated wheel ends from both sides - couldn't hear anything troublesome, only noise was a slight "whine" from diff. So put new pads in passenger side and reassembled - turned over to same results. Put rotor back on drivers side and turned over by hand. "GGRRIIINNDDD"

      Ruh-oh

      Checked to make sure ebrake was fully disengaged, rotated again and got the same sound. Removed rotor and found these on inside of rotor:

      AA5EDD52-B165-40F7-AF57-871A7C033B7B.jpg

      2 separate cracks, about 60 degrees apart. I swapped rotors side-to-side and got same grinding.... So not sure if it's the issue.

      Shoes are seated firmly against backing plate, springs seem to be under good tension, and brake appears to be operating normally. There was some heat cracking on shoes - but not excessive wear.

      Thoughts?

      Don't have a lot of experience replacing shoes/springs, so will have to do some research in the AM.

      1 Reply Last reply
      0
      • EarlE
        EarlE
        Earl
        wrote on last edited by
        #271

        ClassE said:

        I also had them prep and respray the underside of the hood in preparation for bay work next winter. 

        This would look nice under the hood=)

        qcDZgZX.jpg

        XQbQ23T.jpg

        Jh3nnCj.jpg

        museum sig 2earl.jpg

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        • ClassEC
          ClassEC
          ClassE
          wrote on last edited by
          #272

          I like the idea of keeping with an M20, not sure if I wanna go big cam/ITB's or boost tho.

          I do love the sound of a monster cam at idle....

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          • EarlE
            EarlE
            Earl
            wrote on last edited by
            #273

            I love the sound of wide open ITB's=D

            museum sig 2earl.jpg

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            • B
              B
              B C
              wrote on last edited by
              #274

              That ITB setup would be fantastic!  That car must be horridly slow or obnoxious to drive though

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              • ClassEC
                ClassEC
                ClassE
                wrote on last edited by
                #275

                Snap said:

                That ITB setup would be fantastic! That car must be horridly slow or obnoxious to drive though

                How do you figure?

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                • jc43089J
                  jc43089J
                  jc43089
                  wrote on last edited by
                  #276

                  Must have a hole in the floor for Fred Flintstone action.  There is no coolant hose from the overflow, and no cap/rotor/plug wires.  Also if it did somehow run, it would just idle along with no throttle cable.  I do however like the gold brake lines.

                  2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
                  3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
                  '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

                  '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

                  '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
                  '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
                  '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

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                  0
                  • B
                    B
                    B C
                    wrote on last edited by
                    #277

                    The M20 is quite well optimized out of the box and in my opinion the two areas where people go horribly wrong on NA M20 builds is changing to a piston which does not match the squish area of the combustion chamber and not taking advantage of pressure wave tuning on the intake manifold. 

                    -short runner length/no plenum

                    -low air velocity at low rpm with itbs

                    -large camshaft required to match intake selection

                    -high compression pistons required to keep static and dynamic compression ratios happy due to large cam

                    -pistons without the proper squish area due to the requirement to have high compression as well as valve clearance due to large cam

                    It would be like disabling the VTEC system on a honda. It's removing the secret sauce that makes it perform the way it does.

                    1 Reply Last reply
                    0
                    • jc43089J
                      jc43089J
                      jc43089
                      wrote on last edited by
                      #278

                      Well that too, if you want to get into the details.

                      2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
                      3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
                      '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

                      '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

                      '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
                      '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
                      '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

                      1 Reply Last reply
                      0
                      • B
                        B
                        B C
                        wrote on last edited by
                        #279

                        you cant be a bastard e-thug forum troll and not backup your opinions with a little bit of food for thought.

                        1 Reply Last reply
                        1
                        • ClassEC
                          ClassEC
                          ClassE
                          wrote on last edited by
                          #280

                          I have a burning hatred of the M20 intake manifold, if I keep that platform it will have to be changed to something (SRI, ITB's, ANYTHING else). I'm open to a lot of ideas... Just not keeping that ugly ass mani.

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                          0
                          • B
                            B
                            B C
                            wrote on last edited by
                            #281

                            it is quite crab-o-rific,   Make the V12 manifold work for you

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                            • ClassEC
                              ClassEC
                              ClassE
                              wrote on last edited by
                              #282

                              I've thought quite a bit on that. Also the possibility of having a custom SRI made with velocity stacks utilizing the stock flange/injector mounts (which is what I had on my MK3 - sounded amazing at WOT and great power):

                              367467412909518f06f9o.jpg

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                              • DrLeadFootD
                                DrLeadFootD
                                DrLeadFoot
                                wrote on last edited by
                                #283

                                Voting for polished V12 manifold.

                                Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

                                15924991875a64c599885m.jpg

                                     @DrLeadFoot

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                                • R
                                  R
                                  Rowleym
                                  wrote on last edited by
                                  #284

                                  I happen to have 3 extra m20 intake manifold I could cut up and make manifolds with! 

                                  I would very much so like to do a set of ITB's :) 

                                  I could be the test dummy for this, and fabricate it as well, but I need a little help designing! Which throttle bodies would you use? Or would you build your own? 

                                  I could start on this whenever! I would like to see an hx40 on my brothers e30 along with some ITB's. I  think it would be perfect.

                                  96.jpg96.jpg96.jpg96.jpg

                                  sk8 or die

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                                  • B
                                    B
                                    B C
                                    wrote on last edited by
                                    #285

                                    When I was toying with the calculations I believe I determined that the stock M20 manifold operated on either the 2nd or 3rd harmonic. If you guys are serious about a custom manifold then I would be willing to dive into it again for size/length calcs to see what it would look like or if its even possible to do a 1st harmonic tuned manifold.

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                                    • R
                                      R
                                      Rowleym
                                      wrote on last edited by
                                      #286

                                      Snap said:

                                       When I was toying with the calculations I believe I determined that the stock M20 manifold operated on either the 2nd or 3rd harmonic. If you guys are serious about a custom manifold then I would be willing to dive into it again for size/length calcs to see what it would look like or if its even possible to do a 1st harmonic tuned manifold.

                                      Snap said:

                                       When I was toying with the calculations I believe I determined that the stock M20 manifold operated on either the 2nd or 3rd harmonic. If you guys are serious about a custom manifold then I would be willing to dive into it again for size/length calcs to see what it would look like or if its even possible to do a 1st harmonic tuned manifold.

                                      Yea I'm Seriously serious. I have the resources to produce a couple real quick. And I wan't one

                                      96.jpg96.jpg96.jpg96.jpg

                                      sk8 or die

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                                      • ClassEC
                                        ClassEC
                                        ClassE
                                        wrote on last edited by
                                        #287

                                        I like where this is headed......

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                                        0
                                        • ClassEC
                                          ClassEC
                                          ClassE
                                          wrote on last edited by
                                          #288

                                          I have been eyeing up parts from these guys for awhile:

                                          http://www.racehead.com.au

                                          I hadn't thought much on bike carbs or such - let me do some thinking on that. I was invisioning buying an ITB set-up and customizing the stock lower portion of the original manifold to accept the bolt pattern.

                                          1 Reply Last reply
                                          0

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