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  4. ClassE 1989 325IS Build Thread

ClassE 1989 325IS Build Thread

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  • ClassEC
    ClassEC
    ClassE
    wrote on last edited by
    #256

    I'm a way bigger fan of this shot then I thought I'd be!

    F5E29EBE-7CE6-449C-9D3A-26E1619E33DA.jpg

    1 Reply Last reply
    1
    • andyhundleyA
      andyhundleyA
      andyhundley
      wrote on last edited by
      #257

      That looks really good!!

      1 Reply Last reply
      0
      • C
        C
        CallmeDavis
        wrote on last edited by
        #258

        The full set can be found here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/dmonz07/sets/72157644385991526/

        teaser:
        1388390282848639e3233b.jpg

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        2
        • ClassEC
          ClassEC
          ClassE
          wrote on last edited by
          #259

          My favorites - but check the link above!!!

          9704D9F4-9326-454F-AFA3-507196BB4807.jpg

          4EEBD9EE-7386-4688-AAD1-09E71937DD15.jpg

          6B101B23-7E43-4089-9D1B-D46A4706456A.jpg

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          1
          • m42b32M
            m42b32M
            m42b32
            wrote on last edited by
            #260

            holy hot damn, what a stunner

            1991 318is, 1991 318i, 2022 Bronco

            1 Reply Last reply
            0
            • KaiserRollsK
              KaiserRollsK
              KaiserRolls
              wrote on last edited by
              #261

              Fantastic. Great shots.

              And great e30

              1 Reply Last reply
              0
              • ClassEC
                ClassEC
                ClassE
                wrote on last edited by
                #262

                Thanks! ;)

                I've been hearing a slight whining/grinding noise from the rear the last couple times I drive it. Sounds like it's coming from the PS rear, doesn't get loud enough to hear until 15+ mph, is constant (doesn't change under braking or cornering) and is fairly high pitched (not metal-on-metal but does have a dragging metallic sound).

                Pull the rear brakes off last: plenty of life on shoes and pads, shoes are functioning properly and are fully retracting when ebrake is released. No play up/down or left/right out of hubs - but hard to tell just by yanking on studs.

                Only thing I could find out of the ordinary was some uneven wear on the rotor faces (just some light grooving - nothing I'm concerned about) and the following on the PS rear pads:

                154551C5-1EB1-4702-9CE4-3DBF8D10B203.jpg

                See the "lines" on the pad with wear sensor that run perpendicular to the rotor rotation? No idea what they're from - possibly a bad pad?

                I was planning to do rotors/pads all around with good everything about mid summer, cash flow is alittle low right now. Maybe I'll have to do them sooner then later?!?

                1 Reply Last reply
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                • jc43089J
                  jc43089J
                  jc43089
                  wrote on last edited by
                  #263

                  I'm sure the grooving on the pad matches the grooving on the rotor face, a little bit shouldn't be a problem.

                  2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
                  3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
                  '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

                  '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

                  '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
                  '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
                  '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

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                  0
                  • ClassEC
                    ClassEC
                    ClassE
                    wrote on last edited by
                    #264

                    I agree - but what are thoughts on the thin perpendicular lines on the top pad in the pic above? Crappy pad?

                    1 Reply Last reply
                    0
                    • GunMetalGreyG
                      GunMetalGreyG
                      GunMetalGrey
                      wrote on last edited by
                      #265

                      If you don't mind sharing, how much did the paint job run you? looks like it turned out pretty good.

                      ...

                      1 Reply Last reply
                      0
                      • jc43089J
                        jc43089J
                        jc43089
                        wrote on last edited by
                        #266

                        It doesn't look like it is cracked or anything, not sure about those marks, I would just run it until you can do the whole brake job.

                        2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
                        3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
                        '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

                        '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

                        '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
                        '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
                        '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

                        1 Reply Last reply
                        0
                        • EarlE
                          EarlE
                          Earl
                          wrote on last edited by
                          #267

                          GunMetalGrey said:

                          If you don't mind sharing, how much did the paint job run you? looks like it turned out pretty good. 

                          I think the price was very reasonable. IIRC he only had the valence, front bumper, passenger fender, passenger quarter, and passenger door painted. The rest is original=)

                          museum sig 2earl.jpg

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                          0
                          • ClassEC
                            ClassEC
                            ClassE
                            wrote on last edited by
                            #268

                            GunMetalGrey said:

                            If you don't mind sharing, how much did the paint job run you? looks like it turned out pretty good.

                            They only painted the passenger side and front, drivers side and rear are all original paint. Paint shop was alittle under $2000, and I supplied all the replacement body panels needed (PS door, fender, front valance).

                            1 Reply Last reply
                            0
                            • ClassEC
                              ClassEC
                              ClassE
                              wrote on last edited by
                              #269

                              I also had them prep and respray the underside of the hood in preparation for bay work next winter. The entire door needed to be replaced and internals swapped over - which apparently was a pita. Both of those added a bit to the cost.

                              When it comes to paint work - I'll only have Inline Autobody in Oshkosh touch my stuff. The owner Kurt has been doing stuff for me for years and does great work.

                              1 Reply Last reply
                              0
                              • ClassEC
                                ClassEC
                                ClassE
                                wrote on last edited by
                                #270

                                Well.... Might have found the culprit for my slight grinding from rear. Not sure:

                                Rotated wheel ends from both sides - couldn't hear anything troublesome, only noise was a slight "whine" from diff. So put new pads in passenger side and reassembled - turned over to same results. Put rotor back on drivers side and turned over by hand. "GGRRIIINNDDD"

                                Ruh-oh

                                Checked to make sure ebrake was fully disengaged, rotated again and got the same sound. Removed rotor and found these on inside of rotor:

                                AA5EDD52-B165-40F7-AF57-871A7C033B7B.jpg

                                2 separate cracks, about 60 degrees apart. I swapped rotors side-to-side and got same grinding.... So not sure if it's the issue.

                                Shoes are seated firmly against backing plate, springs seem to be under good tension, and brake appears to be operating normally. There was some heat cracking on shoes - but not excessive wear.

                                Thoughts?

                                Don't have a lot of experience replacing shoes/springs, so will have to do some research in the AM.

                                1 Reply Last reply
                                0
                                • EarlE
                                  EarlE
                                  Earl
                                  wrote on last edited by
                                  #271

                                  ClassE said:

                                  I also had them prep and respray the underside of the hood in preparation for bay work next winter. 

                                  This would look nice under the hood=)

                                  qcDZgZX.jpg

                                  XQbQ23T.jpg

                                  Jh3nnCj.jpg

                                  museum sig 2earl.jpg

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                                  • ClassEC
                                    ClassEC
                                    ClassE
                                    wrote on last edited by
                                    #272

                                    I like the idea of keeping with an M20, not sure if I wanna go big cam/ITB's or boost tho.

                                    I do love the sound of a monster cam at idle....

                                    1 Reply Last reply
                                    0
                                    • EarlE
                                      EarlE
                                      Earl
                                      wrote on last edited by
                                      #273

                                      I love the sound of wide open ITB's=D

                                      museum sig 2earl.jpg

                                      1 Reply Last reply
                                      0
                                      • B
                                        B
                                        B C
                                        wrote on last edited by
                                        #274

                                        That ITB setup would be fantastic!  That car must be horridly slow or obnoxious to drive though

                                        1 Reply Last reply
                                        0
                                        • ClassEC
                                          ClassEC
                                          ClassE
                                          wrote on last edited by
                                          #275

                                          Snap said:

                                          That ITB setup would be fantastic! That car must be horridly slow or obnoxious to drive though

                                          How do you figure?

                                          1 Reply Last reply
                                          0

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