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  4. My name is Earl, and I have a Stainless Steel bolt fetish =)

My name is Earl, and I have a Stainless Steel bolt fetish =)

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  • StewCrewS
    StewCrewS
    StewCrew
    wrote on last edited by
    #1120

    KaiserRolls said:

    Lol

    Lol

    7475a3b8-1768-471d-a58d-a14ce9cfe544zps

    1 Reply Last reply
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    • StewCrewS
      StewCrewS
      StewCrew
      wrote on last edited by
      #1121

      Earl said:

      Lol

        

      KaiserRolls said:

      Lol

      Lol

      7475a3b8-1768-471d-a58d-a14ce9cfe544zps

      1 Reply Last reply
      0
      • RamRod E28R
        RamRod E28R
        RamRod E28
        wrote on last edited by
        #1122

        hey stewcrew how did you get such a big pic on ur sig?

        1984 BMW 528e - SETA and manual swapped! M50 to come!!!

        1988 BMW 528e - Need parts?

        1991 Chevy C1500 (mighty 350 with TBI and Wisconsin weight reduction package)

        1996 Mazda Miata (SOLD!!!)

        1996 BMW 325i (Donor car)

        1998 Chevrolet Corvette (BEAST)

        2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee (BROKEN)

        3bc80c27-0937-43e3-9e7f-00404a337ec1zps

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        • KaiserRollsK
          KaiserRollsK
          KaiserRolls
          wrote on last edited by
          #1123

          Ramze46 said:

          hey stewcrew how did you get such a big pic on ur sig?

          it's been there for forever

          1 Reply Last reply
          0
          • EarlE
            EarlE
            Earl
            wrote on last edited by
            #1124

            I made the purchase of a more period correct steering wheel yesterday=)

            This means that my Grip Royal Grain with the horn button will be for sale shortly. 

            IMAG0490.jpg

            Obviously it is in brand new shape since the car has never been driven with it and I bought it brand new. 

            The new wheel is an Italvolanti that I found for an excellent price and it was one of the only wheels that I could find that I thought would flow well with the OEM+ vibe and is 350mm. 

            I will post a pic once it arrives and is installed so that I can make sure it looks as fitting as I am hoping. 

            Other than that I painted the proper side of my waterpump pulley last night since I painted the wrong side before=P 

            CAM00722zpsrkr5y4hy.jpg

            Saturday should involve me installing my Ground Control RSMs, swaybar endlinks/bushings/brackets/hardware, and possibly starting to replace the wheel bearings.

            museum sig 2earl.jpg

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            • StewCrewS
              StewCrewS
              StewCrew
              wrote on last edited by
              #1125

              Ramze46 said:

              hey stewcrew how did you get such a big pic on ur sig?

              I'm not sure hahah. I just went off the specs the website gave me for sizes!

              7475a3b8-1768-471d-a58d-a14ce9cfe544zps

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              • EarlE
                EarlE
                Earl
                wrote on last edited by
                #1126

                I got my Ground Control rear shock mounts installed Saturday.

                Here is the set of e46 m3 vert mounts that I replaced (less than a years worth of driving on them)

                CAM00724zpskjlqjosc.jpg

                CAM00725zpssf64xe1g.jpg

                New versus old

                CAM00727zpsvgljydy9.jpg

                CAM00728zpsshrvdgx1.jpg

                CAM00726zpsibsrjiv2.jpg

                fc368f76-f202-4ebf-905f-704d7de4397bzps

                Installed top plates

                CAM00730zpsycg5wq9r.jpg

                CAM00731zpsxhdoohr8.jpg

                CAM00737zpsmtczmhmd.jpg

                Then installed the shocks with the mounts

                CAM00736zpsluhokaqa.jpg

                CAM00732zpsbr3fd1ee.jpg

                CAM00733zpskytrmz9r.jpg

                CAM00738zpspce7sldq.jpg

                CAM00739zpsmwwoczv6.jpg

                Also installed the new lower shock mounting bolts

                CAM00734zpsxl0jnh6l.jpg

                CAM00735zpsa46zqu14.jpg

                After that I removed the rear sway bar to sandblast, repaint (not happy with how it looks from before), and then to prepare for the new bushings, brackets, end links, and hardware.

                I noticed that the under side of my diff surface rusted through the rust reformer/paint and that my trailing arms are starting to do the same around the edges. I have been thinking of dropping the sub frame again to replace all of the bolts with new and this has me wanting to repaint it all again. I am not sure why said rust reformer would not have neutralized the rust like it looked like it had=/

                museum sig 2earl.jpg

                1 Reply Last reply
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                • EarlE
                  EarlE
                  Earl
                  wrote on last edited by
                  #1127

                  After that I got the thermostat and housing installed with the gaskets, as well as the water pump pulley

                  CAM00740zpswpcjnspv.jpg

                  The pile of scrap from the end of the day

                  CAM00741zpsetolllf9.jpg

                  After that I cruised up to Oshkosh for Collins BBQ=)

                  CAM00747zpsy0ptry4v.jpg

                  CAM00743zpsw19ijvpd.jpg

                  CAM00745zpsqc2etsab.jpg

                  CAM00744zpslpuldbnw.jpg

                  I now have an m44 crank pulley on the way and will have my new steering wheel and misc parts within the next month.

                  museum sig 2earl.jpg

                  1 Reply Last reply
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                  • B
                    B
                    B C
                    wrote on last edited by
                    #1128

                    Earl said:

                    After that I removed the rear sway bar to sandblast, repaint (not happy with how it looks from before), and then to prepare for the new bushings, brackets, end links, and hardware.

                    I noticed that the under side of my diff surface rusted through the rust reformer/paint and that my trailing arms are starting to do the same around the edges. I have been thinking of dropping the sub frame again to replace all of the bolts with new and this has me wanting to repaint it all again. I am not sure why said rust reformer would not have neutralized the rust like it looked like it had=/

                    3349304+eaaec8b8577210efc5fd70b9afeb86d

                    also

                    I spy an engagement ring

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                    • EarlE
                      EarlE
                      Earl
                      wrote on last edited by
                      #1129

                      This ring has been on my finger for almost four years. No engagement here=) 

                      .

                      Also, I don't want the diff and trailing arms to be rusty. Not sure how it even happened since it had rust reformer and was rustoleum paint.

                      museum sig 2earl.jpg

                      1 Reply Last reply
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                      • jc43089J
                        jc43089J
                        jc43089
                        wrote on last edited by
                        #1130

                        I would use some serious paint like KBS rustseal, it is very easy and looks good when done, I prefer the gloss black.  You can buy it on their website or Napa usually stocks it, at least mine does.  Rustoleum paint has not been very durable in my experience.

                        2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
                        3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
                        '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

                        '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

                        '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
                        '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
                        '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

                        1 Reply Last reply
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                        • EarlE
                          EarlE
                          Earl
                          wrote on last edited by
                          #1131

                          I was thinking about grabbing some of that for when I seal my front inner fenders=) I will have to look into it. It wouldn't take any more than 15 minutes to drop the subframe again and a day to redo the paint.

                          museum sig 2earl.jpg

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                          • jc43089J
                            jc43089J
                            jc43089
                            wrote on last edited by
                            #1132

                            It is very durable, I just brush it on, it self levels nicely to a nice smooth surface.

                            2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
                            3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
                            '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

                            '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

                            '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
                            '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
                            '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

                            1 Reply Last reply
                            0
                            • EarlE
                              EarlE
                              Earl
                              wrote on last edited by
                              #1133

                              My m44 crank pulley showed up yesterday=)

                              I gave it a quick wash

                              CAM00751zpsrzwytm6i.jpg

                              Then I gave it a coat of paint

                              CAM00752zpsaxjzq5ao.jpg

                              museum sig 2earl.jpg

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                              0
                              • EarlE
                                EarlE
                                Earl
                                wrote on last edited by
                                #1134

                                A while back I was working on getting some vinyl cut to make my custom "Touring International" badges. A guy on Instagram saw my idea and told me he could make me a set of badges from lexan. He told me that he made a "BMW Compact" set by hand painting it from the back side and painting black over the top. I asked how much he wanted to do them and said he would make my "Touring International" badges and send two "BMW Compact" badges to me for free. I was excited. He never sent me any teaser pics but he mailed them from Europe around a month and a half ago. I was excited for them but lost hope because we both thought they got lost in shipping. The mailman came yesterday and dropped them off and I couldn't wait to open them. 

                                CAM00754zpsi6d5zr2g.jpg

                                They turned out amazing. I thought he simply hand painted them from the back but it is much more than that. He actually machined the letters out from the back and then painted them in. This makes them 3D just like the OEM badges. I will take pictures of the backs when I get home and also some of the "BMW Compact" badges.

                                museum sig 2earl.jpg

                                1 Reply Last reply
                                2
                                • B
                                  B
                                  B C
                                  wrote on last edited by
                                  #1135

                                  That is very cool!

                                  1 Reply Last reply
                                  0
                                  • KaiserRollsK
                                    KaiserRollsK
                                    KaiserRolls
                                    wrote on last edited by
                                    #1136

                                    Neatzejape2u.jpg

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                                    0
                                    • EarlE
                                      EarlE
                                      Earl
                                      wrote on last edited by
                                      #1137

                                      More front and back pictures of the badges

                                      CAM00765zps7fwnyjne.jpg

                                      CAM00766zpsqz7wszoy.jpg

                                      Saturday I started by installing my m44 crank pulley

                                      CAM00757zpsa2bo6gv9.jpg

                                      I was very happy to see that the trigger wheel was the same as the m42 pulley. I never even thought to make sure before switching over. 

                                      After that I threw the intake manifold on temporarily to get it off of the bench and to see how it is all coming together.

                                      CAM00761zpsfvtnpryx.jpg

                                      It is much bulkier than I would like but it is about as good looking as it is going to get without making a log style manifold. 

                                      After that, John arrived and decided to attack the rear wheel bearings. These were a nightmare. Getting the hubs out was pretty quick and simple. The inner races were on them pretty tight and pounding them out wasn't working. We set them to the side so that we could work on getting the outer races out of the trailing arms. 

                                      We were having a terrible time removing the snap ring for holding in the bearings. We ran to Napa to get a snap ring pliers in hope that they would work great. Well the pliers design for holding the tips wasn't exactly up to par and they kept turning when we were removing the snap rings. I ended up getting fancy with a straight pick and two screw drivers to work them out. 

                                      After that, we figured the outer races would come out with brute force. That wasn't working. We then tried multiple ways of pulling them out of the arms with no luck. 

                                      CAM00758zpsaznacjpv.jpg

                                      The piece of uni-strut bent before the race even budged. 

                                      We went off to the hardware store and bought a dremel, figuring it would be our saving grace. It worked excellent for removing the inner races from the hubs. We moved onto the outer races and couldn't quite reach all the way through. 

                                      The new neighbor to the shop then came home and upon introduction, recommended we use his air chisel. He walked on over with it and zipped them out in a matter of seconds........I should have introduced myself sooner. 

                                      After all of that, John pressed in the new bearings. I brought the hubs to work so that they can be sandblasted and repainted. I will install them Saturday afternoon.

                                      How the car currently sits

                                      CAM00763zpswpwjepxn.jpg

                                      museum sig 2earl.jpg

                                      1 Reply Last reply
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                                      • jc43089J
                                        jc43089J
                                        jc43089
                                        wrote on last edited by
                                        #1138

                                        Yep rear wheel bearings suck, I got one out on another e36 by cutting the outer race with a die grinder which took hours.  On mine I took the whole control arm to my neighbors shop and he pressed them out no problem.  Way easier to remove the control arm than fight with that bearing on the car.

                                        2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
                                        3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
                                        '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

                                        '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

                                        '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
                                        '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
                                        '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

                                        1 Reply Last reply
                                        0
                                        • EarlE
                                          EarlE
                                          Earl
                                          wrote on last edited by
                                          #1139

                                          Before

                                          CAM00767zpsn15ovzoe.jpg

                                          CAM00768zps2zdxsnq9.jpg

                                          After

                                          CAM00771zpsc6wci5dr.jpg

                                          CAM00773zps1fi0epsq.jpg

                                          I painted them last night and will take pics of them dry today.

                                          museum sig 2earl.jpg

                                          1 Reply Last reply
                                          0

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