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  4. My name is Earl, and I have a Stainless Steel bolt fetish =)

My name is Earl, and I have a Stainless Steel bolt fetish =)

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  • jc43089J
    jc43089J
    jc43089
    wrote on last edited by
    #992

    What did you do to get the fusebox out?

    2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
    3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
    '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

    '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

    '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
    '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
    '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

    1 Reply Last reply
    0
    • jc43089J
      jc43089J
      jc43089
      wrote on last edited by
      #993

      NM, found your post on BFC, if anyone else is wondering.

      http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1948071-E36-fuse-box-relocate

      Where did you put everything?

      2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
      3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
      '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

      '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

      '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
      '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
      '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

      1 Reply Last reply
      0
      • EarlE
        EarlE
        Earl
        wrote on last edited by
        #994

        It is being tucked under the kick panel of my dash. The top left bolt is a huge pain to get at. The headlight harness also needs to be extended about a foot. The other issue is figuring out how to route your engine harness so that it can attach to the connector from the fusebox.

        museum sig 2earl.jpg

        1 Reply Last reply
        0
        • jc43089J
          jc43089J
          jc43089
          wrote on last edited by
          #995

          I dont want to relocate mine, just to be able to paint.  I got the four screws out that hold it to the firewall which may be enough, it moves a little now.  Not sure about getting the screws back in though...  I will worry about that later lol, thanks!

          2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
          3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
          '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

          '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

          '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
          '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
          '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

          1 Reply Last reply
          0
          • EarlE
            EarlE
            Earl
            wrote on last edited by
            #996

            The lid needs to be removed to get it to move. It has four screws around it. You have to tug up hard to get it up. After that you need to remove the lower portion of the box. It has a plastic piece that needs to be removed to allow it to separate from the wiring. It is pretty easy to get moved once you get the lid off.

            museum sig 2earl.jpg

            1 Reply Last reply
            0
            • EarlE
              EarlE
              Earl
              wrote on last edited by
              #997

              My Adams Rotors showed up Friday.

              CAM00429zpscqzc0n52.jpg

              CAM00441zpsireshxao.jpg

              There was a miscommunication between Adam and I on the front rotors. Compacts end up having the option for either solid or vented fronts. My car ended up having the vented option, but Adam assumed it had the solid option. No biggie whatsoever. He was very happy to sort this out with me and it luckily happened at a time where they aren't needed ASAP anyways.

              CAM00430zpskcgrfyww.jpg

              My buddy Greaser Kyle did more work in the bay.

              We want it to be mostly symmetrical when it is done. There was an odd bump on the drivers side frame rail where a mount used to sit. It was ground off and patched.

              CAM00438zpsxmsd3okb.jpg

              CAM00439zpsbr6nkoqo.jpg

              CAM00442zpssarydbwr.jpg

              He also patched an indent in the drivers side tower but I forgot to take an after picture=/

              CAM00436zpsfmdh0ftg.jpg

              He ended up finishing the patch on the inside of the passenger side tower as well to rid of the tear drop shaped indent. (I forgot to picture this as well)

              CAM00434zpspnkxl4gu.jpg

              While this was going on, my friends and I procured the cam lock tool and made an attempt to get the timing chain on and then engine timed. I think we got it but I am too afraid to turn it over. lol

              CAM00435zpszpfrqbtp.jpg

              CAM00437zps4gbmi81p.jpg

              I was going to install the M44 tensioner (upgrade over the M42 tensioner) but I didn't seem to order a new seal and cover to install it=/

              Other than that I have been thinking about sideskirts lately and how I don't think the ///M skirts will be good enough. I have been told e46 skirts are the same length but cannot find any good pictures of e36's running stock e46 skirts. I will be looking into my options.

              I also took this picture while I was walking around #rippinshelfies

              IMG20140208155340zpsj3rd3ff0.jpg

              museum sig 2earl.jpg

              1 Reply Last reply
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              • R
                R
                Rowleym
                wrote on last edited by
                #998

                Even if the motor is slightly out of time, you won't hit any valves/pistons together. So turn it over at free will(if it's tensioned)!!! And if it hits anything, stop and do it again :) I would advise to do so before you actually put it in/together.

                96.jpg96.jpg96.jpg96.jpg

                sk8 or die

                1 Reply Last reply
                0
                • R
                  R
                  REKIII
                  wrote on last edited by
                  #999

                  Adams Rotors?  They look like Earls Rotors to me!  see what I did there?

                  1 Reply Last reply
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                  • EarlE
                    EarlE
                    Earl
                    wrote on last edited by
                    #1000

                    Rowleym said:

                    Even if the motor is slightly out of time, you won't hit any valves/pistons together. So turn it over at free will(if it's tensioned)!!! And if it hits anything, stop and do it again :) I would advise to do so before you actually put it in/together.

                    Thanks for the heads up. Should I install the tensioner with the old plug and washer for now just to check this out?

                    REKIII said:

                    Adams Rotors?  They look like Earls Rotors to me!  see what I did there?

                    I see what you did there=)

                    museum sig 2earl.jpg

                    1 Reply Last reply
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                    • jc43089J
                      jc43089J
                      jc43089
                      wrote on last edited by
                      #1001

                      Just leave the tension tool in there, turn it a couple turns and check that the cam lock tool fits back on or is dang close.  You won't wreck anything turning it by hand, you would feel if something hit.

                      2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
                      3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
                      '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

                      '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

                      '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
                      '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
                      '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

                      1 Reply Last reply
                      0
                      • EarlE
                        EarlE
                        Earl
                        wrote on last edited by
                        #1002

                        I have a new tensioner since the m42 one exploded when I removed it. lol I will get it in this weekend and see what is up. So I will know if it is timed right if it spins over without hitting anything correct? I just want to make sure I am getting this right.

                        museum sig 2earl.jpg

                        1 Reply Last reply
                        0
                        • jc43089J
                          jc43089J
                          jc43089
                          wrote on last edited by
                          #1003

                          Yep, you are way over thinking it, it's super easy.

                          2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
                          3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
                          '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

                          '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

                          '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
                          '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
                          '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

                          1 Reply Last reply
                          1
                          • EarlE
                            EarlE
                            Earl
                            wrote on last edited by
                            #1004

                            I feel much better about this now=) I love this forum=D

                            museum sig 2earl.jpg

                            1 Reply Last reply
                            0
                            • jc43089J
                              jc43089J
                              jc43089
                              wrote on last edited by
                              #1005

                              Even the vanos timing on the m50/52 is really easy if you think about what you are doing.  I have done it several times and never even use the cam locks, a straightedge works great the only tool you need is the threaded tool for the chain tensioner.

                              2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
                              3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
                              '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

                              '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

                              '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
                              '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
                              '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

                              1 Reply Last reply
                              0
                              • R
                                R
                                Rowleym
                                wrote on last edited by
                                #1006

                                Earl said:

                                I feel much better about this now=) I love this forum=D

                                Yea Ive taken apart a running m20 that was two teeth off and no problems(ran like poopy). There is some slack before valve/piston interferance.

                                96.jpg96.jpg96.jpg96.jpg

                                sk8 or die

                                1 Reply Last reply
                                0
                                • L
                                  L
                                  Laishes
                                  wrote on last edited by
                                  #1007

                                  Rowleym said:

                                  Yea Ive taken apart a running m20 that was two teeth off and no problems(ran like poopy). There is some slack before valve/piston interferance. 

                                  What do you mean by teeth? M20s utilize a timing belt rather than a timing chain like their m30 counterparts?

                                  1 Reply Last reply
                                  0
                                  • jc43089J
                                    jc43089J
                                    jc43089
                                    wrote on last edited by
                                    #1008

                                    ^the teeth/lugs on the belt.

                                    2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
                                    3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
                                    '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

                                    '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

                                    '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
                                    '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
                                    '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

                                    1 Reply Last reply
                                    0
                                    • R
                                      R
                                      Rowleym
                                      wrote on last edited by
                                      #1009

                                      Laishes said:

                                      Yea Ive taken apart a running m20 that was two teeth off and no problems(ran like poopy). There is some slack before valve/piston interferance.

                                      What do you mean by teeth? M20s utilize a timing belt rather than a timing chain like their m30 counterparts?

                                      Hahahah technicalities technicalities.

                                      You know what I meant dammit! :)

                                      96.jpg96.jpg96.jpg96.jpg

                                      sk8 or die

                                      1 Reply Last reply
                                      0
                                      • L
                                        L
                                        Laishes
                                        wrote on last edited by
                                        #1010

                                        Rowleym said:

                                        Hahahah technicalities technicalities. You know what I meant dammit! :)

                                        Just giving you a hard time ;)

                                        Gotta keep em' on there toes!

                                        1 Reply Last reply
                                        1
                                        • YoungCRY
                                          YoungCRY
                                          YoungCR
                                          wrote on last edited by
                                          #1011

                                          It was awesome seeing this in person last weekend Earl! Good to know that the timing should be down :)

                                          Chris Young
                                          BMWCCA #458972
                                          1986 528e/5  | 1994 530i/5 | 1995 540i/6 | 2013 X5 35d | 1998 C1500 Suburban | 1995 K2500 Suburban

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