Legit Painters around here?
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What type of paint are you considering ( poly, enamal )?
I've not yet decided aka I have no idea.
How bad is the paint on your WRX? You say it's rough, but I have seen some amazing feats carried out by skilled detailers. Got any photos? I worked in a body shop for a couple years and have painted a couple cars. I'm not volunteering to paint, but maybe I can help give you some prep pointers.
It's got rust stuck in the clear coat, about 200 key marks, dents missing paint from impact, and just being silver in general is a problem. I can try to snap some pics tomorrow.
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I'd be willing to give you a hand and could probably do the paint like GunMetalGrey's first car ( now on his 8th).
The painting is the easy part. There is a heckuva lot of prep time. Mostly if changing color on door jambs, fender troughs under the hood etc.
Most people are intimidated by body work, but it can be fun and worth the effort if you do it yourself.
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I'd be willing to give you a hand and could probably do the paint like GunMetalGrey's first car ( now on his 8th).
The painting is the easy part. There is a heckuva lot of prep time. Mostly if changing color on door jambs, fender troughs under the hood etc.
Most people are intimidated by body work, but it can be fun and worth the effort if you do it yourself.
I agree with the giant font guy. I actually enjoy body work for some reason. The results are in the prep.
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sorry for the large font- my eyes aren't what they used to be and I need to see what I'm typing.

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Used to own a body shop. I'd be willing to help, but alot of the stuff we had got lost/stolen. I'll see what I can scrounge up out of storage for ya. Aside from that, all I have is the full car paint booth, and the huge ass air compressor.
Also, using plasti-dip myself. I'll say it's the dumbest product ever.
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In fact, plasti dip is quite brilliant being cost-effective and all. It allows you to try out different colors without the risk of ruining what you have already. It protects surfaces from chipping, fading, scratching and corrosion. Why would you knock such an innovative product? Is it because of the "fad" element?
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Plasti-dip isn't exactly my cup of tea. I used it on my wheels, looked, OKAY at best. An just all around wasn't impressed. Oh well, to each there own
you just dont like it because you can't huff it.
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Interlux polyurethane marine paint. Spray it on with a HVLP gun and can get two coats from a $50 quart can. It is a gloss finish though.
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What I don't understand is why you'd do a "$50 paint job" with rustoleum and not just get a legitimate single stage catalyzed paint instead. It's not a huge price difference. What, 150 or 200 in materials tops? Working with catalyzed paint takes the mystery out of the drying/cure time. Oh, and Ryan. If you really want the real experience of painting a car, do it all and do it all right. It's the best practice you'll ever get.
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Interlux is far superior to Rustoleum. It is a topside and hull paint made to stand up to weather. I've done the Rustoleum on a car and it doesn't last but a year before fading. I've done Interlux on a whole car and on sailboats and it works fine.
If Ryan doesnt want to stick a lot of $ in the Boobaru it is an acceptable way to go.
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Interlux is far superior to Rustoleum. It is a topside and hull paint made to stand up to weather. I've done the Rustoleum on a car and it doesn't last but a year before fading. I've done Interlux on a whole car and on sailboats and it works fine.
If Ryan doesnt want to stick a lot of $ in the Boobaru it is an acceptable way to go.
I am familiar with Interlux, and I know it's a totally different paint. I was posting in reference to the post above yours, but you snuck one in while I was typing.
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