Yet ANOTHER Noob from Milwaukee -- Looking to replace suspension
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Those are direct bolt in coilovers. Nothing else is required to install them. Raceland is the manufacturer. The Ultimos are higher quality than the normal ones. I had mine on for roughly 20k miles and I had them absolutely bottomed out. Neither one of them was blown when I removed them. I can see the Ultimos lasting you at least 40k miles, especially if you have them raised to stock height with helper springs installed.
You won't need to buy new spring pads, tires, or spacers either. Spring pads are useless in my mind and I never ran them on my car, but these will not hurt them. You shouldn't run into any clearance issues between the tire and coilover since they are smaller in overall diameter than the stock struts with their large spring seat.
The Raceland Ultimos would ride very well and handle good for what you are looking for.
Also, you don't have to put jack stands under the jack pads. I actually look at that being very unsafe since they're so small. I usually put them on the lollipops in front and on the subframe mounts in the rear.
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Damn, I want to resist and not get coilovers simply because lowering isn't my priority... but they're so cheap! What all should I get along with them? I'm assuming that replacing my strut and shock mounts is necessary... anything else?
Oh wait, what is that about helper springs? How much cost are those going to add? I imagine since my shock/struts and springs are worn out, my car is sitting a bit lower, and I like the look that it is... but I can figure out what I prefer later when these suckers are installed! Alright, so it sounds like I'll be picking between Raceland coilovers + helper springs, whatever kit FCPeuro puts up (Sachs), and Bilsteins + BavAuto springs (which say they lower it ~1 1/4")
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Your front strut mounts should be fine but the rears should be done. I believe e46 convertible shock mounts are the good thing to get for the rear. I forget.
Helper springs come on the coilovers=) You don't need to purchase anything extra to install them. No need to resist coilovers because they are a great upgrade for the price. Down the road you may decide you want to go a tiny bit lower to make the car handle better (less body roll). I believe the Racelands will be your best idea for this.
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Do you find yourself needing to improve handling for daily driving? I guess my handling has never been an issue, even when my front end is bouncing through turns
I agree they seem fantastically priced... I'm wondering if I don't EVER adjust my height (which I agree, I want it a bit lower than stock, but can get that with lowering springs like H&R), are they still a good value in terms of the quality of the shocks and struts? I just want to make sure I"m not paying for height adjustability, I want to be paying for quality shocks! I also want to be absolutely certain these will go on without a snap, no other modded components needed...
Thanks for all your help and patience!
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Ten bucks says he eventually slams his car if he buys coilovers lol. But anyways, the racelands are going to be a huge improvement over your super blown struts, but they are still racelands.. Definitely get the ultimos if you do buy them. They really ride pretty decent.
sk8 or die
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Welcome
Jack pads are ok, but pretty much useless.
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Alright, Earl, I think you sold me. I've been doing some research and it sounds like they're great for a cheap set. I have one worry: speed bumps. It sounds like they have to lower at least 1"... how low before speed bumps start screwing up your car? I already have some torn pieces underneath my car (do I just get those welded, or just not car?), and don't want it to get much worse
.I think I'd like to replace the mounts all around, since I'm pretty sure this car went 167k on one set of struts, it's probably best to swap out whatever is easy to do while we're in there! I imagine that means mounts & bump stops... anything else that's a good idea to pick up? Also, I can't believe the springs are so thin! The stock ones (at least on the back) are huge.
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Alright. Raceland's shipping is like $40??! Come on now! I'll be doing some last minute comparing this weekend to determine what I want to buy
. When would you be available to get together? Why do you have a garage in milwaukee? Are you going to murder me? What would you like for compensation ?Why do i get e46 m3 convertible mounts for my e36 non-m? More durable? they'll still fit?
Edit: I'm a little concerned about clearance after seeing this http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1480398-Help-with-installing-coilovers
Was he running non-stock tires? I'll get the numbers off the sides of my tires to be absolutely sure what I've got. Also, I don't see the bump stops on there... and I'd like to replace the stock ones, can you clarify how they're on there somehow? Also, what exactly is the difference between the helper springs and the normal springs? Sorry for all the questions, I really want to understand what's going in my car, and I don't see how these coilovers are equivalent to what I've been shopping for this whole time! I'm warming up to them though
Thanks!
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The helper is supposedly to make the ride softer. I never run them. They sit above the normal spring. The bump stops are at the top in the front inside the top perch. The rear doesnt have them. The e46 convertible mounts are a direct bolt in and are stronger than the e36 mounts. Our stock mounts are prone for going up through where the shock bolts.
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Sounds good. Well I'm doing my radiator tomorrow (got all the parts, woo!), so if that all goes well I'll put in an order for the Ultimos! Do you know if you actually have to jack the car up to bleed the radiator properly? My driveway is inclined, and there's a piece of cement that you have to bump over to get in the garage... I was thinking of just putting it there when I bleed the system. Thoughts?
Thanks for all your help, I'm really glad you saved me $400 lol
BTW: Based on the good old finger test, my back wheels currently have no clearance between them and the fender... I guess that means it's a little low? ha! The front I can fit ~3 fingers. I'm assuming it's because the back springs are broken, whereas the fronts are in tact.
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Bleeding is not as difficult as it is made out to be, a slight upward incline can help. I drill a 1/16" hole in the thermostat at the highest point possible, some brands come with a hole already and the tiny hole does not flow enough during normal operation to affect anything. I would recommend BMW blue coolant or Evans NPG (the Evans is more work because the system must be flushed and all water removed so it's not really feasible unless doing major work already), both will protect against corrosion better and the Evans is lifetime coolant. Use a bottle of Redline "Water Wetter" or Royal Purple "Purple Ice" if using regular green/yellow coolant for additional corrosion protection.
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i would recomend jom's veedubmachine.com like 310 shiped don't buy billies or bav auto springs
i like the jom's but really thier the same as racelands and while your under there you better replace your trailing arm bushings I have the tool if you need it
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I have owned parts made in China that have had superior quality and performance to parts made in the US or Germany.
It has little to do with the country of manufacture, and a lot to do with the company that does the engineering and dictates the tolerances, standards of quality, and inspection/acceptance.
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