Non-BMW Stuff on a BMW Forum
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Does anyone have any suggestions for making the horn button work on the aftermarket settering wheel? There's one wire that comes into the hub, and if I ground that out on the steering wheel, the horns engage their horning. The button has two spades, so obviously I need to ground one of them. Any suggestions on how to ground that within the steering wheel?
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Does anyone have any suggestions for making the horn button work on the aftermarket settering wheel? There's one wire that comes into the hub, and if I ground that out on the steering wheel, the horns engage their horning. The button has two spades, so obviously I need to ground one of them. Any suggestions on how to ground that within the steering wheel?
Momo makes this horn button retainer plate thing (here is one example, have no experience with this specific part though: https://www.ebay.com/itm/121532035439) that has a grounding point on it. I believe it connects the ground through the steering column like the OEM horn buttons. This is what I did on my car with some modification to the ring as I'm using a raid steering wheel (though I am using a momo wheel hub) and it works perfectly. Wired like this:
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Momo makes this horn button retainer plate thing (here is one example, have no experience with this specific part though: https://www.ebay.com/itm/121532035439) that has a grounding point on it. I believe it connects the ground through the steering column like the OEM horn buttons. This is what I did on my car with some modification to the ring as I'm using a raid steering wheel (though I am using a momo wheel hub) and it works perfectly. Wired like this:
That looks like exactly what I need! Thanks for that. I had no idea that existed.
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Question time. Tonight I realized my cruise control is not working. It was working completely fine before everything this winter. The only thing I did to the cruise control system was replace the cable from the actuator to the throttle body.
I followed this diagnosis list:
1. low resistance between pin 9 and ground (both the ground on the connector and the chassis)
2. switch the meter to volts and while I do get power, I’m getting about 11.2v between pin 9 and earth while the battery is at 12.5v
3. connect a bulb between pin 1 and 24. This worked and the bulb turned on.
I guess I’m wondering what else I can check? I think it’s weird I’m not getting full voltage in #2.
Can somsone who's better at wiring break this down for me:
What does that mean and is there a way to test that?
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Might be worth checking the gauge cluster if you had it out, the speed sensor wire to the back of it can get loose/disconnected and that stops the cruise working. Mine was non-functional for years until I checked, that’s all that was keeping it from working.
I vividly remember pluggint that in, but I plan to check continuity of all the wires going to the cruise control ecu and will double check that one.
I ordered a new (used) steering column stalk. I didn't know that the late model cruise control system had an accel and decel feature becuase mine never did that. I also banged the lever really good a few times when taking the dash in and out. I'm hoping that is the cause of my issues.
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Confirmed last night that the speed signal wire is plugged in behind the cluster. Confirmed the brake switch and clutch switch are good.
I went to look more into why the CC connector wasn't getting 12v from the brake switch. This morning I confirmed that the brake switch on the pedal and on the accessory bank of connectors (i don't know what to call it) below are both getting 12v with key in pos2. I don't know why that circuit calls out R as ABS, because R & S get their signals from the brake switch - one is constant and one is the switched wire.
After pressing the brake pedal, the switched side on the brake switch is 11.5v, but the at the pin on the accessory connector it's almost a full volt lower around 10.8. Which lines up with the readings I was getting at the CC ecu connector. Why would there be that much of a drop?
I can't find any good information on what it means that for the CC to engage, Pin 9 (which is from the brake switch) need to sense ground from the tail lights. Does that mean pin 9 is grounded through the tail lights? I'm not really sure how to check that.
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Still trying to figure this out. It’s not the cruise control stalk lever. My only lead right now is a potential voltage issue. These are the voltage readings i did this morning:
The violet wire feeds fuses 4,5,6,12 and fuse 6 feeds the brake switch.
Is a .5v drop through the ignition switch normal? I’m going to replace the brake switch and clean the brake circuits grounds under the rear seat, but still, is a small voltage drop like that something to expect from the ignition switch? The diagnosis from e30zone says that green/red wire should be feeding the ECU box with 12+ volts when the brake pedal is pressed.
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Annual first drive to work picture.
Cruise control works. I took the actuator apart and did a better job adjusting the cable. I think there was too much slack inside the actuator before.
850R is up on the lift for engine mounts, turbo rebuild, some coolant lines, and hopefully if all goes smoothed, pull the dash and fix the mounts and replace the evaporator.
Not good for boost.
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Hoping for some insight to better understand something. On my way to work this morning I did a WOT pull through most of the gears. When I came to a stop sign the idle was rough - rpm flucuating, the MPG needling swinging back and forth, the exhaust sounded a little lumpy. I started driving again and by the next stop sign a few miles later it was totally fine. Smooth idle, engine was smooth, etc. Got to work, turned it off and on a couple times and all was good. Listened to it idling with the hood up and reved it a few times. Sounded totally normal.
What could have caused that? I will mention that a couple weeks ago the battery had died completely (left the doors and trunk open) and this is my first "hard" pull after getting the battery charged up and driving it again. I remember with my Volvo 740 wagon that also has a Bosch motronic system that after disconnecting the battery, it would usually take some time for the ECU to recalibrate. Is this perhaps the case here?
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Hoping for some insight to better understand something. On my way to work this morning I did a WOT pull through most of the gears. When I came to a stop sign the idle was rough - rpm flucuating, the MPG needling swinging back and forth, the exhaust sounded a little lumpy. I started driving again and by the next stop sign a few miles later it was totally fine. Smooth idle, engine was smooth, etc. Got to work, turned it off and on a couple times and all was good. Listened to it idling with the hood up and reved it a few times. Sounded totally normal.
What could have caused that? I will mention that a couple weeks ago the battery had died completely (left the doors and trunk open) and this is my first "hard" pull after getting the battery charged up and driving it again. I remember with my Volvo 740 wagon that also has a Bosch motronic system that after disconnecting the battery, it would usually take some time for the ECU to recalibrate. Is this perhaps the case here?
Possibly need to clean the IAC? Not sure if you replaced or cleaned during your tear down of everything.
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Just driving it an enjoying it.
As soon as the 850 is done, I have a small to-do list for it:
- Remove amp and subwoofer and put back in the "underseat" powered subwoofer.
- O2 sensor.
- Investigate intermittent clunk from rear. I believe it's tied to the sway bars. Either the mounts or the unsealed heim joints on the aftermarket sway bar endlinks.
That's really about it right now.
Took the car to Green Bay and back on Wednseday and it did great. It was wet and humid and then cool at night and the headlights stayed completely dry the whole time.
My only complaint is the car sitting at 3500 RPM while doing 70 on the highway with the 4.10 diff. But as I looked more into the 3.73, it sits at about the same if I were to go 80. I also read of a significant difference in feel of the car between the two, with the 4.10 being quite a bit snappier. I mean, it makes sense, I just didn't realize it would be as noticeable as others describe.
So, I will probably save $1,000 and just go 10mph slower.
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Just driving it an enjoying it.
As soon as the 850 is done, I have a small to-do list for it:
- Remove amp and subwoofer and put back in the "underseat" powered subwoofer.
- O2 sensor.
- Investigate intermittent clunk from rear. I believe it's tied to the sway bars. Either the mounts or the unsealed heim joints on the aftermarket sway bar endlinks.
That's really about it right now.
Took the car to Green Bay and back on Wednseday and it did great. It was wet and humid and then cool at night and the headlights stayed completely dry the whole time.
My only complaint is the car sitting at 3500 RPM while doing 70 on the highway with the 4.10 diff. But as I looked more into the 3.73, it sits at about the same if I were to go 80. I also read of a significant difference in feel of the car between the two, with the 4.10 being quite a bit snappier. I mean, it makes sense, I just didn't realize it would be as noticeable as others describe.
So, I will probably save $1,000 and just go 10mph slower.
Looks awesome! Details on the underseat sub?
Depending on how I feel about the 3.73 that I’m about to put into my car, I would maybe swap with you if yours is also a LSD. I’m not sure if it’ll lose a noticeable amount of pep with also going to a manual, but if I find I want something shorter I’d maybe entertain a trade. I try to do more backroad driving anyways, so ~3500-3600 on the interstate doesn’t bother me. Can’t hear the engine anyways over all the wind noise
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We could also start with you driving my car once it’s done for you to get a rough feel of the difference. There’s some weight penalty on mine for sure but I bet it’ll be enough to make a rough call.
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Looks awesome! Details on the underseat sub?
Depending on how I feel about the 3.73 that I’m about to put into my car, I would maybe swap with you if yours is also a LSD. I’m not sure if it’ll lose a noticeable amount of pep with also going to a manual, but if I find I want something shorter I’d maybe entertain a trade. I try to do more backroad driving anyways, so ~3500-3600 on the interstate doesn’t bother me. Can’t hear the engine anyways over all the wind noise
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We could also start with you driving my car once it’s done for you to get a rough feel of the difference. There’s some weight penalty on mine for sure but I bet it’ll be enough to make a rough call.
It’s just the Sound Ordinance low profile powered sub from crutchfield. It’s their house brand, for the price, it’s great.
I would love to drive it and see how the 3.73 feels. I don’t do a lot of freeway driving but when I’m doing 50 hours of freeway driving for the rally this year, some taller gears would be nice. Mine is a LSD, so a straight I think could work if that’s what we’re both ultimately interested in.
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