Non-BMW Stuff on a BMW Forum
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i see you are reselling DEPO kits. just a fair warning - their quality is subpar. I can tell you are dedicated to selling a really great product, and the DEPOs are not up to those standards. just have your customer service person ready to field those calls
a suggestion: be willing to open a set of the DEPO lights and sell replacement parts from it if someone requests. no other vendor does this. you may actually get business from this alone, and it would also support your own product. youll have to learn to disassemble (and/or make some special tools) without breaking stuff, but it doesn't take much practice.
what i've personally seen/experienced:
1. broken or stripped adjuster knobs (plastic is bad quality)
2. broken glass (thinner glass than oem, cracks easier)
3. leaking seals. (the gasket on the back bulb covers and the o-ring on the parking light are a joke)
Yeah, I hear you. I added a note to the website reiterating that they're an aftermarket headlight and not an OEM replacement.
I would like to think that most people know what Depo headlights are and that they are an affordable aftermarket option/alternative to OEM headlights. The ones I've taken apart though, the quality seems fine. I'll mess with the adjusters some and doulbe check any that go out.
Fun fact I recently learned with the printers and those cheap color changing LED light strips with remotes from amazon. The interference from the receivers on the light strips is enough to "push" the button on the printer's menu and make it do things by itself. I pulled those out of each one and put in LED under cabinet type lights and have had no issues.
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I would like to think that most people know what Depo headlights are and that they are an affordable aftermarket option/alternative to OEM headlights. The ones I've taken apart though, the quality seems fine. I'll mess with the adjusters some and doulbe check any that go out.
think all you want, but your brain power will not transfer to the morons of the world
Dan
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It looks OEM. Very nice job.
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Tried this thing. It didn't work though due to the GAPING HOLE IN THE WATER PUMP GASKET I found after filling it up with coolant.
Replaced the gasket and then it worked and made filling it up really easy.
Some interior dingle berries to wrap up. Just waiting for the classic wisconsin 30 degrees and snow to 80 degrees and humid over night transition to summer.
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Does anyone have any suggestions for making the horn button work on the aftermarket settering wheel? There's one wire that comes into the hub, and if I ground that out on the steering wheel, the horns engage their horning. The button has two spades, so obviously I need to ground one of them. Any suggestions on how to ground that within the steering wheel?
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Does anyone have any suggestions for making the horn button work on the aftermarket settering wheel? There's one wire that comes into the hub, and if I ground that out on the steering wheel, the horns engage their horning. The button has two spades, so obviously I need to ground one of them. Any suggestions on how to ground that within the steering wheel?
Momo makes this horn button retainer plate thing (here is one example, have no experience with this specific part though: https://www.ebay.com/itm/121532035439) that has a grounding point on it. I believe it connects the ground through the steering column like the OEM horn buttons. This is what I did on my car with some modification to the ring as I'm using a raid steering wheel (though I am using a momo wheel hub) and it works perfectly. Wired like this:
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Momo makes this horn button retainer plate thing (here is one example, have no experience with this specific part though: https://www.ebay.com/itm/121532035439) that has a grounding point on it. I believe it connects the ground through the steering column like the OEM horn buttons. This is what I did on my car with some modification to the ring as I'm using a raid steering wheel (though I am using a momo wheel hub) and it works perfectly. Wired like this:
That looks like exactly what I need! Thanks for that. I had no idea that existed.
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Question time. Tonight I realized my cruise control is not working. It was working completely fine before everything this winter. The only thing I did to the cruise control system was replace the cable from the actuator to the throttle body.
I followed this diagnosis list:
1. low resistance between pin 9 and ground (both the ground on the connector and the chassis)
2. switch the meter to volts and while I do get power, I’m getting about 11.2v between pin 9 and earth while the battery is at 12.5v
3. connect a bulb between pin 1 and 24. This worked and the bulb turned on.
I guess I’m wondering what else I can check? I think it’s weird I’m not getting full voltage in #2.
Can somsone who's better at wiring break this down for me:
What does that mean and is there a way to test that?
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Might be worth checking the gauge cluster if you had it out, the speed sensor wire to the back of it can get loose/disconnected and that stops the cruise working. Mine was non-functional for years until I checked, that’s all that was keeping it from working.
I vividly remember pluggint that in, but I plan to check continuity of all the wires going to the cruise control ecu and will double check that one.
I ordered a new (used) steering column stalk. I didn't know that the late model cruise control system had an accel and decel feature becuase mine never did that. I also banged the lever really good a few times when taking the dash in and out. I'm hoping that is the cause of my issues.
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Confirmed last night that the speed signal wire is plugged in behind the cluster. Confirmed the brake switch and clutch switch are good.
I went to look more into why the CC connector wasn't getting 12v from the brake switch. This morning I confirmed that the brake switch on the pedal and on the accessory bank of connectors (i don't know what to call it) below are both getting 12v with key in pos2. I don't know why that circuit calls out R as ABS, because R & S get their signals from the brake switch - one is constant and one is the switched wire.
After pressing the brake pedal, the switched side on the brake switch is 11.5v, but the at the pin on the accessory connector it's almost a full volt lower around 10.8. Which lines up with the readings I was getting at the CC ecu connector. Why would there be that much of a drop?
I can't find any good information on what it means that for the CC to engage, Pin 9 (which is from the brake switch) need to sense ground from the tail lights. Does that mean pin 9 is grounded through the tail lights? I'm not really sure how to check that.
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Still trying to figure this out. It’s not the cruise control stalk lever. My only lead right now is a potential voltage issue. These are the voltage readings i did this morning:
The violet wire feeds fuses 4,5,6,12 and fuse 6 feeds the brake switch.
Is a .5v drop through the ignition switch normal? I’m going to replace the brake switch and clean the brake circuits grounds under the rear seat, but still, is a small voltage drop like that something to expect from the ignition switch? The diagnosis from e30zone says that green/red wire should be feeding the ECU box with 12+ volts when the brake pedal is pressed.
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Annual first drive to work picture.
Cruise control works. I took the actuator apart and did a better job adjusting the cable. I think there was too much slack inside the actuator before.
850R is up on the lift for engine mounts, turbo rebuild, some coolant lines, and hopefully if all goes smoothed, pull the dash and fix the mounts and replace the evaporator.
Not good for boost.
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Hoping for some insight to better understand something. On my way to work this morning I did a WOT pull through most of the gears. When I came to a stop sign the idle was rough - rpm flucuating, the MPG needling swinging back and forth, the exhaust sounded a little lumpy. I started driving again and by the next stop sign a few miles later it was totally fine. Smooth idle, engine was smooth, etc. Got to work, turned it off and on a couple times and all was good. Listened to it idling with the hood up and reved it a few times. Sounded totally normal.
What could have caused that? I will mention that a couple weeks ago the battery had died completely (left the doors and trunk open) and this is my first "hard" pull after getting the battery charged up and driving it again. I remember with my Volvo 740 wagon that also has a Bosch motronic system that after disconnecting the battery, it would usually take some time for the ECU to recalibrate. Is this perhaps the case here?
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