I Have a Problem
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The piece of the puzzle that I have been waiting for! Konig countergram's in hyperchrome which have been backordered since October, one place got a handful in stock and I managed to grab a set. 15x8 et25 and will be running a 225/45r15 likely with an rt660 for fun.
Rears look like they will fit beautifully (IX rear end) and may have a smidge of room to go out further.
Fronts have the rim .05" off the strut tower, so I will need to space that out. May end up grabbing camber plates for the front to make things more proper and fit easier.
I'm stoked with the way they look in person!
This car is coming along nicely, it wasn't fun to drive when I got it due to clutch and various contact points, but it has been fun cleaning up all the small lingering items!
The car looked like Steel Blue for second when I first saw this picture.
you might need a 10mm spacer for the front. If I remember correctly, my first wheels for 16x8 20ET and needed a 5mm on the front to clear it.
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It's amazing what some added compression would do.
Love the car man. That airbox is much needed, you stand gains in that alone.
Increasing compression is only good for about 3% power gain over stock compression (when going to 11.5:1) but that combined with all of the top end work certainly made a difference!
Thanks! Airbox has been slow as I debate how to do other various items that would impact the airbox layout.The car looked like Steel Blue for second when I first saw this picture.
you might need a 10mm spacer for the front. If I remember correctly, my first wheels for 16x8 20ET and needed a 5mm on the front to clear it.
Yeah the fronts will be getting at least that much, possibly more depending on how close the tire is to the strut tube.
Finally had a dry enough day yesterday to test for intake vacuum at WOT. There was none.
Anyone want an M60 throttle body? haha -
Anyone want an M60 throttle body? haha
Possibly? Send me the part number Ben plz
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Possibly? Send me the part number Ben plz
Identical pic from the bay of e
1742010 is what is on the throttle boy.Ben Plz'd
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Possibly? Send me the part number Ben plz
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Man, vintage shot right there, pre-surgery glasses and just a chin strap.
Wild shit -
Full tank of gas, I was standing next to it. Trunk tar in.
My battery relocation to the rear requires a bit more work than initially thought. It's either an '84 thing or just early production, not sure. The rear battery tray area is narrower than a late model, so I will need a different battery. I also need to cut a hole for the battery cable grommet in the engine bay vs just punching out a blank plate.
My weight bias isn't great (55% front) but it's not as bad as expected.For ref, this is an 84 318i with full interior, full stereo in place, and a complete 6cyl e30 driveline and suspension components, with a 24v instead of the M20. I'm fairly impressed at the weight.
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Nice job on the weight! My e30 race car gutted and caged with the m20 is around the same. I could go lighter but need to make 2710 minimum with driver to be legal.
The odd part is I've done nothing to reduce the weight! It's insane how light this car must've been when it rolled off the factory line sporting an m10 and an adorable drivetrain to match!
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Increasing compression is only good for about 3% power gain over stock compression
Not sure whether this is some kind of extreme generalization, or a valid piece of data from a non-relevant discussion...
Ideal static compression ratio is heavily dependent on camshaft timing. Cam specs greatly affect VE across the rev range. When VE is decreased, there's less air getting in, but the final volume after compression is the same, so your "dynamic" CR will be lower. You need a higher static CR to get the the same amount of "dynamic" compression of the charge before ignition. Generally speaking, bigger cams require more compression, especially to restore torque that is lost in the low end/midrange which was lost because increased valve overlap results in a lower VE in those rev ranges..
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Not sure whether this is some kind of extreme generalization, or a valid piece of data from a non-relevant discussion...
Ideal static compression ratio is heavily dependent on camshaft timing. Cam specs greatly affect VE across the rev range. When VE is decreased, there's less air getting in, but the final volume after compression is the same, so your "dynamic" CR will be lower. You need a higher static CR to get the the same amount of "dynamic" compression of the charge before ignition. Generally speaking, bigger cams require more compression, especially to restore torque that is lost in the low end/midrange which was lost because increased valve overlap results in a lower VE in those rev ranges..
It is a generalization
Static compression ratio does not depend of camshaft timing, as it is simply using the volume of combustion area at the two most extreme points of stroke. The effective compression ratio certainly changes when you get into cam profiles and variable timing and things of that sort, which is not something I've delved into, as the static ratio of this engine has never been accurately measured, therefore dynamic is also speculative.When looking at adiabatic compression of the otto cycle, ~1 point of compression increase yields around 2 to 4 percent increase in efficiency as a result of more heat being generated by the compression of air itself and intake temp being the same (ideally) instead relying on the combustible fuel source to provide that energy. As your delta T increases so does the area in the otto cycle which is the work output.
Anywho, doing any modification without supporting it is silly, but when people with stock M50's talk about just increasing compression and expecting to see large benefit it is worth noting that they will be spending a fair bit of money for little gain.
Positive manifold pressure is a wonderful thing in an engine is what it really all boils down to.
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Man I'm good at buying vehicles that had things living in them.
Noticed some yellow/orange chips near the sunroof crank, and had been getting a more present animal smell in the cabin.
Started pulling the headliner down around the doors and more foam was rolling out.
Lovely.Add taking the current headliner out and replacing it to the list of things to do.
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Headliner was cleaned out and tucked back away for a later date .Cooling this engine had been sub optimal before, so I threw money at the problem.
Stewart water pump, Z3m triple core, SPAL branded fan.Clearances are tight, but man does this help keep temps in check!
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Oh, new wheels on. 595rs-rr's because RT660's were hella backordered. 225/45r15
Conclusion, lightweight, but 15's look meh in my opinion. -
Oh, new wheels on. 595rs-rr's because RT660's were hella backordered. 225/45r15
Conclusion, lightweight, but 15's look meh in my opinion.Call me lame but the 15's look perfect.
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Call me lame but the 15's look perfect.
+1
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Call me perfect but the 15's look lame.
Perfect
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I've been chasing down a tick from the rear of this engine for a bit now, and had some findings yesterday.
The previous work I've done was removing the cams and opening and cleaning all the lifters, which didn't change anything. I then replaced lifters on cylinder 5 and 6, which did not change the noise.
I tried heavier oil which helped reduce the noise a bit, but then was loud again, thin oil made it much worse.I am seeing metal in the oil so it was time to pull the pan and see what bearing I was losing. The piece upper right was from something else, but this is what was coming out of the back corner of the oil pan as I was pulling it.
I found the oil pump chain to be very slack, but intact.
I can't leave the chain that loose so I'll be pulling the engine seeing as I'm opening up a larger can of worms here than intended.
I have not seen any glaring signs of bearing failure which is good (no discolored caps) but I have yet to pull any caps. That'll wait until the engine is on a stand.Fun with engines!
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