Supertech Upgraded dual spring kit
Supertech Stock size exhaust valves
Supertech +1 Intake Valves
Supertech Single Groove Valve Locks
Supertech Valve Seals
Achilles Upgraded Valve Guides
Further head port work to accommodate and capitalize on the oversized intake valves

I'm looking forward to the re-tune on the dyno, last time my crank sensor was on the fritz so I was limited to 6100ish RPM depending on engine temp. With the new springs and such we will happily running it up nice and high in the revs without concern!

Ordered some goodies and will be back better than ever. 
+1 on the intake for fun

jc43089 said:

Check the side clearance and inspect for anything that would cause lower output flow.  Also check the relief valve spring, I doubt that is the issue though because typical idling pressure is very low anyway.  Did you have an oil pressure gauge?

It did for awhile, then it went missing right around when I got it. It's in my amazon cart haha. 

I question if the horrid old clutch in there didn't help the situation any, as it would chatter like a mother.

Previous dude also speculated that it was ticking shortly after assembly, but not as bad.

GunMetalGrey said:

In what capacity? 
I have verified that the pump is still a pump, which is always nice! 

Check the side clearance and inspect for anything that would cause lower output flow.  Also check the relief valve spring, I doubt that is the issue though because typical idling pressure is very low anyway.  Did you have an oil pressure gauge?

KaiserRolls said:

I’m sure you already did, but check the oil pump

In what capacity? 
I have verified that the pump is still a pump, which is always nice!

Crank looks fine, bearings didn't spin. 
Will be taking the crank out and redoing all the bearings and verifying clearance along with replacing the oil pump chain.

I am seeing metal in the oil so it was time to pull the pan and see what bearing I was losing. The piece upper right was from something else, but this is what was coming out of the back corner of the oil pan as I was pulling it. 

I found the oil pump chain to be very slack, but intact. 

I can't leave the chain that loose so I'll be pulling the engine seeing as I'm opening up a larger can of worms here than intended. 
I have not seen any glaring signs of bearing failure which is good (no discolored caps) but I have yet to pull any caps. That'll wait until the engine is on a stand. 

Fun with engines!

jc43089 said:

Call me perfect but the 15's look lame.

Perfect

jc43089 said:

Call me lame but the 15's look perfect.

+1

GunMetalGrey said:

Oh, new wheels on. 595rs-rr's because RT660's were hella backordered. 225/45r15
Conclusion, lightweight, but 15's look meh in my opinion. 

Call me lame but the 15's look perfect.

Cooling this engine had been sub optimal before, so I threw money at the problem. 
Stewart water pump, Z3m triple core, SPAL branded fan.

Clearances are tight, but man does this help keep temps in check!

Started pulling the headliner down around the doors and more foam was rolling out.
Lovely. 

Add taking the current headliner out and replacing it to the list of things to do.

HipMF said:

Not sure whether this is some kind of extreme generalization, or a valid piece of data from a non-relevant discussion...

Ideal static compression ratio is heavily dependent on camshaft timing. Cam specs greatly affect VE across the rev range. When VE is decreased, there's less air getting in, but the final volume after compression is the same, so your "dynamic" CR will be lower. You need a higher static CR to get the the same amount of "dynamic" compression of the charge before ignition. Generally speaking, bigger cams require more compression, especially to restore torque that is lost in the low end/midrange which was lost because increased valve overlap results in a lower VE in those rev ranges..

It is a generalization
Static compression ratio does not depend of camshaft timing, as it is simply using the volume of combustion area at the two most extreme points of stroke. The effective compression ratio certainly changes when you get into cam profiles and variable timing and things of that sort, which is not something I've delved into, as the static ratio of this engine has never been accurately measured, therefore dynamic is also speculative.

When looking at adiabatic compression of the otto cycle, ~1 point of compression increase yields around 2 to 4 percent increase in efficiency as a result of more heat being generated by the compression of air itself and intake temp being the same (ideally) instead relying on the combustible fuel source to provide that energy. As your delta T increases so does the area in the otto cycle which is the work output. 

Anywho, doing any modification without supporting it is silly, but when people with stock M50's talk about just increasing compression and expecting to see large benefit it is worth noting that they will be spending a fair bit of money for little gain. 

Positive manifold pressure is a wonderful thing in an engine is what it really all boils down to.

GunMetalGrey said:

Increasing compression is only good for about 3% power gain over stock compression

Not sure whether this is some kind of extreme generalization, or a valid piece of data from a non-relevant discussion...

Ideal static compression ratio is heavily dependent on camshaft timing. Cam specs greatly affect VE across the rev range. When VE is decreased, there's less air getting in, but the final volume after compression is the same, so your "dynamic" CR will be lower. You need a higher static CR to get the the same amount of "dynamic" compression of the charge before ignition. Generally speaking, bigger cams require more compression, especially to restore torque that is lost in the low end/midrange which was lost because increased valve overlap results in a lower VE in those rev ranges..

Boris3 said:

Nice job on the weight! My e30 race car gutted and caged with the m20 is around the same. I could go lighter but need to make 2710 minimum with driver to be legal.

The odd part is I've done nothing to reduce the weight! It's insane how light this car must've been when it rolled off the factory line sporting an m10 and an adorable drivetrain to match!

My battery relocation to the rear requires a bit more work than initially thought. It's either an '84 thing or just early production, not sure. The rear battery tray area is narrower than a late model, so I will need a different battery. I also need to cut a hole for the battery cable grommet in the engine bay vs just punching out a blank plate.
My weight bias isn't great (55% front) but it's not as bad as expected. 

For ref, this is an 84 318i with full interior, full stereo in place, and a complete 6cyl e30 driveline and suspension components, with a 24v instead of the M20. I'm fairly impressed at the weight.

SteelBlue said:

Man, vintage shot right there, pre-surgery glasses and just a chin strap. 
Wild shit

Ryan... said:

I want another e30

You're a big boy. Go get one.

YoungCR said:

Possibly? Send me the part number  Ben plz