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Non-BMW Stuff on a BMW Forum

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  • N
    N
    Nick_F
    wrote on last edited by
    #858

    This thing is coming together beautifully! I need an e30 in my life

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    • G
      G
      gilber33
      wrote on last edited by
      #859

      Well, true to classic e30 form I made it a couple days before something pops up. Today the steering got periodically tight. Didn’t think much of it until getting home and it was really right; i.e. hard to turn the wheel. Kind of like I didn’t have power steering. But if I turned the wheel say 90°, the car wouldn’t straighten back out, it would stay turned. Which I thought was weird. So there’s some definite resistance somewhere. Belt on the pump was still tight and the fluid wasn’t frothy or anything. 
       

      Rack? Pump? Joints on the steering column?

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      • B
        B
        B C
        wrote on last edited by
        #860

        Which steering/suspension components have been touched recently? I dont recall you replacing things.

        Does it have drop hats?

        It could be an internal rack leak on the spool. Running Lucas Power Steering Fix (one of very few fixes in a bottle that works) or Valvoline Max Life ATF will help swell those seals if they are leaking.

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        • G
          G
          gilber33
          wrote on last edited by
          #861

          B C said:

          Which steering/suspension components have been touched recently? I dont recall you replacing things.

          Does it have drop hats?

          It could be an internal rack leak on the spool. Running Lucas Power Steering Fix (one of very few fixes in a bottle that works) or Valvoline Max Life ATF will help swell those seals if they are leaking.

          It has new inner and outer tie rods from when I swapped in the e36 rack when I got the car. I replaced strut mounts and ball joints during this last round of stuff. 
           

          Admittedly I did notice the steering rack did this when I was doing the suspension work. I assume that’s not normal. 

          FullSizeRender.mov

          Attachments:

          • FullSizeRender.mov
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          • B
            B
            B C
            wrote on last edited by
            #862

            That would be where your binding is from. Im doubtful the pinion adjustment will help in this scenario but if you’ve got nothing to lose, may as well mark the current position and tighten it 1/8 turn at a time to see if it removes the slop

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            • straight6pwrS
              straight6pwrS
              straight6pwr
              wrote on last edited by
              #863

              gilber33 said:

              Well, true to classic e30 form I made it a couple days before something pops up. Today the steering got periodically tight. Didn’t think much of it until getting home and it was really right; i.e. hard to turn the wheel. Kind of like I didn’t have power steering. But if I turned the wheel say 90°, the car wouldn’t straighten back out, it would stay turned. Which I thought was weird. So there’s some definite resistance somewhere. Belt on the pump was still tight and the fluid wasn’t frothy or anything. 
               

              Rack? Pump? Joints on the steering column? 

              Does the resistance you feel go away with more speed? 

              Any unusual pump noise? if you lock the rack to one extreme do you get the extra pump noise per usual? 

              I had the power steering fail in a way that required Hulk-like inputs at any speed to operate the wheel. The power steering pump had failed internally. Symptom - stiff steering all the time, no returning to center. Pump had no external signs of a problem. It was easy to diagnose - i pulled the belt and spun the power steering pulley and it rotated with no resistance. 

              I have doubts on the column joints, you'd probably feel a notable notchiness as the joint rotated past the seized portion. I.e. as you turn the wheel it would be stiff-not stiff-stiff-not stiff at certain degrees of rotation.

              Dan
              yajsYRL.jpg.e5f350b4dfe961d76ac8b32efce2e1a6.jpg

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              • G
                G
                gilber33
                wrote on last edited by
                #864

                B C said:

                That would be where your binding is from. Im doubtful the pinion adjustment will help in this scenario but if you’ve got nothing to lose, may as well mark the current position and tighten it 1/8 turn at a time to see if it removes the slop

                How do you do that?

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                • G
                  G
                  gilber33
                  wrote on last edited by
                  #865

                  straight6pwr said:

                  Does the resistance you feel go away with more speed? 

                  Any unusual pump noise? if you lock the rack to one extreme do you get the extra pump noise per usual? 

                  I had the power steering fail in a way that required Hulk-like inputs at any speed to operate the wheel. The power steering pump had failed internally. Symptom - stiff steering all the time, no returning to center. Pump had no external signs of a problem. It was easy to diagnose - i pulled the belt and spun the power steering pulley and it rotated with no resistance. 

                  I have doubts on the column joints, you'd probably feel a notable notchiness as the joint rotated past the seized portion. I.e. as you turn the wheel it would be stiff-not stiff-stiff-not stiff at certain degrees of rotation. 

                  It had until I was on my way home today and doing about 45 on a country road I had pretty decent amount of resistance steering side to side. No pump noises. I had the previous pump fail on this car and the power steering fluid was frothy and would stay frothy. I’ll pull the belt tomorrow night and check for resistance on the pump.

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                  • G
                    G
                    gilber33
                    wrote on last edited by
                    #866

                    We can collectively agree that the gear is not supposed to rotate within the rack, right?

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                    • B
                      B
                      B C
                      wrote on last edited by
                      #867

                      right, it should not rotate.

                      The rack adjustment is here:

                      image.png.cd79c14f89b94d5c13d013361e5984f9.png

                      Again im really unsure that it will do much in your situation but its a good last-ditch effort in case it has been fiddled with incorrectly in the past.

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                      • G
                        G
                        gilber33
                        wrote on last edited by
                        #868

                        B C said:

                        right, it should not rotate.

                        The rack adjustment is here:

                        Again im really unsure that it will do much in your situation but its a good last-ditch effort in case it has been fiddled with incorrectly in the past. 

                        I guess I will do a new rack. I had no idea that the racks from Rack Doctor were so affordable. I'm really annoyed with myself I didn't put one of those in from the beginning.

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                        • SteelBlueS
                          SteelBlueS
                          SteelBlue
                          wrote on last edited by
                          #869

                          gilber33 said:

                          I guess I will do a new rack. I had no idea that the racks from Rack Doctor were so affordable. I'm really annoyed with myself I didn't put one of those in from the beginning. 

                          $200 is not bad for OEM refurbed one. 
                           

                          Does anyone know the difference between years for the racks? They have a 95, then a 96-97, and then a 98-99. The 96-97 is the best priced option and I believe the one that I pulled from @ChrisO’s car.

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                          0
                          • G
                            G
                            gilber33
                            wrote on last edited by
                            #870

                            SteelBlue said:

                            $200 is not bad for OEM refurbed one. 
                             

                            Does anyone know the difference between years for the racks? They have a 95, then a 96-97, and then a 98-99. The 96-97 is the best priced option and I believe the one that I pulled from @ChrisO’s car.

                            They're website is a little confusing because they make it seem like all the racks are different between years when I don't believe they are. Also, I didn't know the e46 racks are also a direct fit and the purple tag "club sport" racks have a 3 turn lock to lock. Rack Doctor has those for the same price (just have to pay the core charge upfront). 

                            Edit: Ordered a purple tag e46 rack. $337 shipped - $18 of which is a return label for my rack and $100 core charge. So $219 for a rebuilt rack. Pretty great.

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                            • SteelBlueS
                              SteelBlueS
                              SteelBlue
                              wrote on last edited by
                              #871

                              gilber33 said:

                              They're website is a little confusing because they make it seem like all the racks are different between years when I don't believe they are. Also, I didn't know the e46 racks are also a direct fit and the purple tag "club sport" racks have a 3 turn lock to lock. Rack Doctor has those for the same price (just have to pay the core charge upfront). 

                              I was looking for the purple tag ones under the Z3, but I think I was mistaken. Purple tag is E46, while the Z3 is the 1.9 or something turn to lock? 
                               

                              Regardless, the purple tag was what I was looking for. It’s also $200? With the core charge up front, however?

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                              • G
                                G
                                gilber33
                                wrote on last edited by
                                #872

                                SteelBlue said:

                                I was looking for the purple tag ones under the Z3, but I think I was mistaken. Purple tag is E46, while the Z3 is the 1.9 or something turn to lock? 
                                 

                                Regardless, the purple tag was what I was looking for. It’s also $200? With the core charge up front, however?

                                Correct. See above. Just ordered that one. 

                                image.png

                                And then selected the return label which added $18. Which I feel like is a lot cheaper than it would be if I were to print my own return label.

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                                • SteelBlueS
                                  SteelBlueS
                                  SteelBlue
                                  wrote on last edited by
                                  #873

                                  gilber33 said:

                                  Correct. See above. Just ordered that one. 

                                  image.png

                                  And then selected the return label which added $18. Which I feel like is a lot cheaper than it would be if I were to print my own return label. 

                                  Nice. Are you currently using the stock rack? This is definitely something I want to do in the future.

                                  Swapping the rack with the motor out is easy, not sure about in the car. Biggest PITA I could see would be getting the steering shaft and rack splines to line up and get it "all the way on". Is your car non-airbag? Shouldn't need additions on the steering shaft for non-airbag.

                                  Curious to see how it goes for you.

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                                  • G
                                    G
                                    gilber33
                                    wrote on last edited by
                                    #874

                                    SteelBlue said:

                                    Nice. Are you currently using the stock rack? This is definitely something I want to do in the future.

                                    Swapping the rack with the motor out is easy, not sure about in the car. Biggest PITA I could see would be getting the steering shaft and rack splines to line up and get it "all the way on". Is your car non-airbag? Shouldn't need additions on the steering shaft for non-airbag.

                                    Curious to see how it goes for you.

                                    I have an e36 rack in there now that I did when I first got the car. However, it was a random ebay rack that was like $80. So, I guess I'm not surprised.

                                    From what I read, with the engine in the car you bend the lower mounting tabs for the rack down and it should just drop out then. I do not have an airbag, which made things easier. But the absolute hardest part I could see when swapping the racks with the engine in is removing the steering knuckle for the spacer and reinstalling that. That was a PITA while being able to sit in the engine bay.

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                                    • P_RoloffP
                                      P_RoloffP
                                      P_Roloff
                                      wrote on last edited by
                                      #875

                                      gilber33 said:

                                      I have an e36 rack in there now that I did when I first got the car. However, it was a random ebay rack that was like $80. So, I guess I'm not surprised.

                                      From what I read, with the engine in the car you bend the lower mounting tabs for the rack down and it should just drop out then. I do not have an airbag, which made things easier. But the absolute hardest part I could see when swapping the racks with the engine in is removing the steering knuckle for the spacer and reinstalling that. That was a PITA while being able to sit in the engine bay. 

                                      When I did the front suspension on the e30 last summer, I dropped the rack and resealed it while I was in there. I had to bend the tabs down to get the rack out, but otherwise it wasn't too bad. I used a big flathead screwdriver in the gap in the splined coupler and the rack came out without much issue. Definitely easier with two people, for both install and removal, one holding the rack and the other holding the coupler and prying it open.

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                                      • SteelBlueS
                                        SteelBlueS
                                        SteelBlue
                                        wrote on last edited by
                                        #876

                                        Yeah, the coupler portion was what I was trying to refer to as the most difficult part of the process. Couldn't think of what it was called.

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                                        • G
                                          G
                                          gilber33
                                          wrote on last edited by
                                          #877

                                          P_Roloff said:

                                          When I did the front suspension on the e30 last summer, I dropped the rack and resealed it while I was in there. I had to bend the tabs down to get the rack out, but otherwise it wasn't too bad. I used a big flathead screwdriver in the gap in the splined coupler and the rack came out without much issue. Definitely easier with two people, for both install and removal, one holding the rack and the other holding the coupler and prying it open.

                                          That's good to hear that it wasn't too bad. Just glancing at it it looks nearly impossible to do with the engine in the car. I'm going to pull it in the garage tonight and will hopefully be able to remove it pretty quickly.

                                          I'm also swapping out the Bosch/Behr AC compressor with a Seiko unit. My Behr compressor is on the do not fly list for r134 compatible compressors.

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