Non-BMW Stuff on a BMW Forum
-
Does the resistance you feel go away with more speed?
Any unusual pump noise? if you lock the rack to one extreme do you get the extra pump noise per usual?
I had the power steering fail in a way that required Hulk-like inputs at any speed to operate the wheel. The power steering pump had failed internally. Symptom - stiff steering all the time, no returning to center. Pump had no external signs of a problem. It was easy to diagnose - i pulled the belt and spun the power steering pulley and it rotated with no resistance.
I have doubts on the column joints, you'd probably feel a notable notchiness as the joint rotated past the seized portion. I.e. as you turn the wheel it would be stiff-not stiff-stiff-not stiff at certain degrees of rotation.
It had until I was on my way home today and doing about 45 on a country road I had pretty decent amount of resistance steering side to side. No pump noises. I had the previous pump fail on this car and the power steering fluid was frothy and would stay frothy. I’ll pull the belt tomorrow night and check for resistance on the pump.
-
right, it should not rotate.
The rack adjustment is here:
Again im really unsure that it will do much in your situation but its a good last-ditch effort in case it has been fiddled with incorrectly in the past.
I guess I will do a new rack. I had no idea that the racks from Rack Doctor were so affordable. I'm really annoyed with myself I didn't put one of those in from the beginning.
-
I guess I will do a new rack. I had no idea that the racks from Rack Doctor were so affordable. I'm really annoyed with myself I didn't put one of those in from the beginning.
$200 is not bad for OEM refurbed one.
Does anyone know the difference between years for the racks? They have a 95, then a 96-97, and then a 98-99. The 96-97 is the best priced option and I believe the one that I pulled from @ChrisO’s car.
-
$200 is not bad for OEM refurbed one.
Does anyone know the difference between years for the racks? They have a 95, then a 96-97, and then a 98-99. The 96-97 is the best priced option and I believe the one that I pulled from @ChrisO’s car.
They're website is a little confusing because they make it seem like all the racks are different between years when I don't believe they are. Also, I didn't know the e46 racks are also a direct fit and the purple tag "club sport" racks have a 3 turn lock to lock. Rack Doctor has those for the same price (just have to pay the core charge upfront).
Edit: Ordered a purple tag e46 rack. $337 shipped - $18 of which is a return label for my rack and $100 core charge. So $219 for a rebuilt rack. Pretty great.
-
They're website is a little confusing because they make it seem like all the racks are different between years when I don't believe they are. Also, I didn't know the e46 racks are also a direct fit and the purple tag "club sport" racks have a 3 turn lock to lock. Rack Doctor has those for the same price (just have to pay the core charge upfront).
I was looking for the purple tag ones under the Z3, but I think I was mistaken. Purple tag is E46, while the Z3 is the 1.9 or something turn to lock?
Regardless, the purple tag was what I was looking for. It’s also $200? With the core charge up front, however?
-
I was looking for the purple tag ones under the Z3, but I think I was mistaken. Purple tag is E46, while the Z3 is the 1.9 or something turn to lock?
Regardless, the purple tag was what I was looking for. It’s also $200? With the core charge up front, however?
Correct. See above. Just ordered that one.
And then selected the return label which added $18. Which I feel like is a lot cheaper than it would be if I were to print my own return label.
-
Correct. See above. Just ordered that one.
And then selected the return label which added $18. Which I feel like is a lot cheaper than it would be if I were to print my own return label.
Nice. Are you currently using the stock rack? This is definitely something I want to do in the future.
Swapping the rack with the motor out is easy, not sure about in the car. Biggest PITA I could see would be getting the steering shaft and rack splines to line up and get it "all the way on". Is your car non-airbag? Shouldn't need additions on the steering shaft for non-airbag.
Curious to see how it goes for you.
-
Nice. Are you currently using the stock rack? This is definitely something I want to do in the future.
Swapping the rack with the motor out is easy, not sure about in the car. Biggest PITA I could see would be getting the steering shaft and rack splines to line up and get it "all the way on". Is your car non-airbag? Shouldn't need additions on the steering shaft for non-airbag.
Curious to see how it goes for you.
I have an e36 rack in there now that I did when I first got the car. However, it was a random ebay rack that was like $80. So, I guess I'm not surprised.
From what I read, with the engine in the car you bend the lower mounting tabs for the rack down and it should just drop out then. I do not have an airbag, which made things easier. But the absolute hardest part I could see when swapping the racks with the engine in is removing the steering knuckle for the spacer and reinstalling that. That was a PITA while being able to sit in the engine bay.
-
I have an e36 rack in there now that I did when I first got the car. However, it was a random ebay rack that was like $80. So, I guess I'm not surprised.
From what I read, with the engine in the car you bend the lower mounting tabs for the rack down and it should just drop out then. I do not have an airbag, which made things easier. But the absolute hardest part I could see when swapping the racks with the engine in is removing the steering knuckle for the spacer and reinstalling that. That was a PITA while being able to sit in the engine bay.
When I did the front suspension on the e30 last summer, I dropped the rack and resealed it while I was in there. I had to bend the tabs down to get the rack out, but otherwise it wasn't too bad. I used a big flathead screwdriver in the gap in the splined coupler and the rack came out without much issue. Definitely easier with two people, for both install and removal, one holding the rack and the other holding the coupler and prying it open.
-
When I did the front suspension on the e30 last summer, I dropped the rack and resealed it while I was in there. I had to bend the tabs down to get the rack out, but otherwise it wasn't too bad. I used a big flathead screwdriver in the gap in the splined coupler and the rack came out without much issue. Definitely easier with two people, for both install and removal, one holding the rack and the other holding the coupler and prying it open.
That's good to hear that it wasn't too bad. Just glancing at it it looks nearly impossible to do with the engine in the car. I'm going to pull it in the garage tonight and will hopefully be able to remove it pretty quickly.
I'm also swapping out the Bosch/Behr AC compressor with a Seiko unit. My Behr compressor is on the do not fly list for r134 compatible compressors.
-
I'm also swapping out the Bosch/Behr AC compressor with a Seiko unit.
Like the watch company? lol
-
Like the watch company? lol
Exactly. It tells time and cools the cabin.
-
With the car in the air, it was very notchy. With the car off it had the exact same feel. Took off the belt for the PS pump and it felt like it had some resistance when I spun it. With it having the same feeling with the car on or off I feel like I can rule out the pump. I spun the rack by hand on the steering knuckle and there was no visible binding on the joints, but it felt like the resistance was coming from the rack and not the universal joints. It felt like it would hit resistance below my hand before above it. So I’m pretty confident it’s the rack.
-
So hopefully someone can give me some input here if this looks right. The top u joint has free motion back and forth in one direction and the other direction seems to be very limited and to get beyond that limited range of motion I have to give it some force.
Attachments:
-
-
input: that u-joint is f*in toasted.
Well, allllllrighty then. And the OEM coupler assembly seems to not be available anymore.
-
When the steering shaft is bolted to the rack, is the circled area fouling on one another when you turn the steering wheel?
Hello! It looks like you're interested in this conversation, but you don't have an account yet.
Getting fed up of having to scroll through the same posts each visit? When you register for an account, you'll always come back to exactly where you were before, and choose to be notified of new replies (either via email, or push notification). You'll also be able to save bookmarks and upvote posts to show your appreciation to other community members.
With your input, this post could be even better 💗
Register Login