New Ride: e46 330i ZHP
-
So I've got a side mirrors and reverse question. My passenger side mirror tilts down to the point of being useless when I shift into reverse. Doesn't matter where I have the mirror selector switch set, over to driver side or passenger side. Take the car out of reverse and shift into 1st and the passenger mirror makes noise and might slightly adjust about a 1/4" up but still pointed down. I have to use the switch controls to get it back to the regular position I want for driving. A bit annoying so I'd like to figure this out or ideally just like to turn the "lower in reverse" option off. But as I said it happens in every position of the mirror adjustor switch so there is no "off" I've found.
I'm probably missing something simple here. Insights welcomed!
-
the internet suggests replacing the mirror's motor and/or ribbon cable solves many of the incorrect positioning issues - shorting in the system or motor makes the behavior erratic. (versus it being a module thing). it also says you could try unplugging the ribbon cable to the mirrors behind the door card to permanently disable them.
standard e46 mirrors may be the same motor as the ZHP, or at least that's how it looks on real OEM, but i couldnt find 'ZHP'
Dipping mirrors are definitely on the list of pointless technology because the problem it solves isnt really a problem.
1. Electric scissors
2. Dipping car side mirrors
3. Powered reclining furniture
Dan
-
Dipping mirrors are definitely on the list of pointless technology because the problem it solves isnt really a problem.
The mirror on my e91 dips when in reverse and I've found it can be helpful to keep your wheel off the curb when parallel parking. But I guess any other time it's pointless and even annoying. It would be nice to have the feature on a button or something. I'd be surprised if some coding couldn't turn it off.
-
Supposedly the off button is the position of the mirror select switch but it doesn't make a difference in my case. Thanks for the mirror motor / cable info.
I need to look back at the wiring diagrams. The car was missing one of the fuses for the Harmon Kardon button and DSC disable button. Wonder if the mirror dip runs off the same circuit and the PO pulled it to "solve" the problem.
-
So I went with Koni sports and stock ZHP springs, Lemforder front control arms and CABs, sway bar end links, added the front shock tower plates, and rear tower reinforcements. The suspension looked to be original at 156k. Shocks were all shot and FCABs were absolutely trashed.
Tie rods are next up when I get some time... along with replacing a leaking OFH gasket, a leaking PS hose, and the crunching passenger front window regulator.
I'm happy with the ride height and the ride with one exception. Still wallows/body rolls on entrance/exit ramps more than I'd like which is not a surprise given the stock ZHP springs. Is there a streetable e46 spring step up? I have the H&R sports and Bilsteins on the 318is and it's a blast on curves but you jarringly feel EVERY expansion joint/road imperfection which I don't want for the 330i.
I know that sways typically come after springs to fine tune, but to address body roll I've have been thinking of doing a slight step up for now from stock bars (23.5/18.5mm) with say an e46 m3 front sway and e46 vert rear bar (26.5/20). Anyone gone this route, or more does anyone have these bits lying around?
Car will not be tracked so don't need a big step up in spring or bars. I guess I could just drive slower but well you know...
-
This is for an e36 but they aren't much different. I have Eibach springs on my coupe and find them very streetable but firmer and slightly lower than stock but not so much that I have trouble in winter. For reference I am 30 years old, I know streetable means different things to different people
. -
any reason to NOT do sways before springs will be based on things irrelevant to street driving. it will reduce body roll without adding stiffness. i say absolutely do that.
Dan
-
Oil leaks corollary: no matter how much you clean up remnants from the old leak and removing the ofh old oil will be caught up in the metal undertray and will drip on floor the day after car is off jack stands making you think new gasket is leaking...when it isn't.
On another note I'm replacing tie rods today. Does anyone actually source a 34mm crows foot to torque the inners, or do you just plumbers / big creasant wrench them tight?
-
Oil leaks corollary: no matter how much you clean up remnants from the old leak and removing the ofh old oil will be caught up in the metal undertray and will drip on floor the day after car is off jack stands making you think new gasket is leaking...when it isn't.
On another note I'm replacing tie rods today. Does anyone actually source a 34mm crows foot to torque the inners, or do you just plumbers / big creasant wrench them tight?
I use a
, but you can get a 34mm from a bike shop locally.
https://www.instagram.com/_jdesigner_/ http://nevertoolow.tumblr.com/
🥳SOLD BMW E24 633CSI - BMW M30B32 🧪SOLD HCH ES9 - 1.3 LDA
👽BMW E30 325IC - Toyota 1JZ-GTE ⏰ HONDA EF9 CIVIC SI - JDM B18C5
☠️BMW E36 318i - Ford 5.0 FE302 🚴♂️ GT-Labomba - 26x2.75 Freeride
🤹♀️SOLD BMW E36/7 Z3 - BMW M54B25 🧓SOLD BMW E10 2002 - BMW M10M05 -
Cresant works thanks
I prefer to call it the “thumb detecting nut-fu**er”
-
I tend to call it the "when you don't have the proper size tool and really should buy said tool rather than cheaping out" wrench. Which might explain why I never knew how to spell it. But I did already have a Harbor Freight set of them because well they were really cheap with coupon.
Anyway, the crescent
wrench worked. Finished the tie rods without drama. Installed new rods and boots so didn't have to deal with what I've read is the usual nightmare of trying to separate the old inner and outer rods to reuse the old boots. Next up alignment. -
Able to get back to wrenching on the ZHP this weekend. We found a little surprise at the alignment last fall. Drivers side lower trailing arm was a wee bit bent. New versus old in the picture.
Replaced both sides. Access to the inner bolt on drivers side is certainly a pain. Joys of unbolting and shifting the diff to get to it. Passenger side is easy.
-
wee bit bent
Nothing a little hammer couldn't fix.
Hello! It looks like you're interested in this conversation, but you don't have an account yet.
Getting fed up of having to scroll through the same posts each visit? When you register for an account, you'll always come back to exactly where you were before, and choose to be notified of new replies (either via email, or push notification). You'll also be able to save bookmarks and upvote posts to show your appreciation to other community members.
With your input, this post could be even better 💗
Register Login