New Ride: e46 330i ZHP

[m42b32]

straight6pwr said:

Dipping mirrors are definitely on the list of pointless technology because the problem it solves isnt really a problem. 

The mirror on my e91 dips when in reverse and I've found it can be helpful to keep your wheel off the curb when parallel parking. But I guess any other time it's pointless and even annoying. It would be nice to have the feature on a button or something. I'd be surprised if some coding couldn't turn it off.

[Boris3]

Supposedly the off button is the position of the mirror select switch but it doesn't make a difference in my case. Thanks for the mirror motor / cable info.

I need to look back at the wiring diagrams. The car was missing one of the fuses for the Harmon Kardon button and DSC disable button. Wonder if the mirror dip runs off the same circuit and the PO pulled it to "solve" the problem.

[Boris3]

So I went with Koni sports and stock ZHP springs, Lemforder front control arms and CABs, sway bar end links, added the front shock tower plates, and rear tower reinforcements. The suspension looked to be original at 156k. Shocks were all shot and FCABs were absolutely trashed.

Tie rods are next up when I get some time... along with replacing a leaking OFH gasket, a leaking PS hose, and the crunching passenger front window regulator.

I'm happy with the ride height and the ride with one exception. Still wallows/body rolls on entrance/exit ramps more than I'd like which is not a surprise given the stock ZHP springs. Is there a streetable e46 spring step up? I have the H&R sports and Bilsteins on the 318is and it's a blast on curves but you jarringly feel EVERY expansion joint/road imperfection which I don't want for the 330i. 

I know that sways typically come after springs to fine tune, but to address body roll I've have been thinking of doing a slight step up for now from stock bars (23.5/18.5mm) with say an e46 m3 front sway and e46 vert rear bar (26.5/20). Anyone gone this route, or more does anyone have these bits lying around?   

Car will not be tracked so don't need a big step up in spring or bars.  I guess I could just drive slower but well you know...

[jc43089]

This is for an e36 but they aren't much different.  I have Eibach springs on my coupe and find them very streetable but firmer and slightly lower than stock but not so much that I have trouble in winter.  For reference I am 30 years old, I know streetable means different things to different people .

[straight6pwr]

any reason to NOT do sways before springs will be based on things irrelevant to street driving. it will reduce body roll without adding stiffness. i say absolutely do that.

[wasnt m3]

H&R sports for an e46 ride like stock in my opinion. I had them on 2 of mine. Didn't help much, if at all with body roll. I'd just do the swaybars right away.

[Boris3]

Thanks guys. Sways it is.

[Boris3]

Figured out my oil leak

Replaced the passenger front window regulator and found leftovers from someone's earlier work in the bottom of the door

[B C]

appears to be some sort of healing/energy crystals. I’d keep em.

Anecdotal evidence makes me feel like BMWs are more prone to oil leaks than a lot of cars. At least they are usually worth repairing oil leaks on

[Boris3]

Oil leaks corollary: no matter how much you clean up remnants from the old leak and removing the ofh old oil will be caught up in the metal undertray and will drip on floor the day after car is off jack stands making you think new gasket is leaking...when it isn't.

On another note I'm replacing tie rods today. Does anyone actually source a 34mm crows foot to torque the inners, or do you just plumbers / big creasant wrench them tight?

[Jdesign]

Boris3 said:

Oil leaks corollary: no matter how much you clean up remnants from the old leak and removing the ofh old oil will be caught up in the metal undertray and will drip on floor the day after car is off jack stands making you think new gasket is leaking...when it isn't.

On another note I'm replacing tie rods today. Does anyone actually source a 34mm crows foot to torque the inners, or do you just plumbers / big creasant wrench them tight? 

I use a , but you can get a 34mm from a bike shop locally.

[Boris3]

Cresant works thanks

[KaiserRolls]

Boris3 said:

Cresant works thanks

I prefer to call it the “thumb detecting nut-fu**er”

[Boris3]

I tend to call it the "when you don't have the proper size tool and really should buy said tool rather than cheaping out" wrench. Which might explain why I never knew how to spell it. But I did already have a Harbor Freight set of them because well they were really cheap with coupon.

Anyway, the crescent wrench worked. Finished the tie rods without drama. Installed new rods and boots so didn't have to deal with what I've read is the usual nightmare of trying to separate the old inner and outer rods to reuse the old boots.  Next up alignment.

[Boris3]

Able to get back to wrenching on the ZHP this weekend. We found a little surprise at the alignment last fall. Drivers side lower trailing arm was a wee bit bent. New versus old in the picture.

Replaced both sides. Access to the inner bolt on drivers side is certainly a pain. Joys of unbolting and shifting the diff to get to it. Passenger side is easy.

[Rekpoint]

Boris3 said:

wee bit bent

Nothing a little hammer couldn't fix.