I've never heard of NGA but that's a good one!  I've used gutentight on a few things before.

Backpressure in the complete exhaust stream mostly a consideration on a car with forced induction when the ECU cannot adapt/is not tunable for an increase in boost pressure due to the turbine spinning higher RPM from less exhaust restriction.  Tubing size is important for gas velocity and matters mostly for reversion waves and evacuating the exhaust gasses from the cylinder adequately  (in other words the header, or any piping upstream of an X or Y pipe) It is also a consideration on a turbocharged car but in both scenarios, once the exhaust gas is past the collector/turbocharger,  the main goal is to get the exhaust out the back of the car as effortlessly as possible. Yes you want to keep the piping to a smaller diameter to aid in exhaust gas velocity, but going too small and creating excessive pressure drops will be more detrimental than going too large and losing a bit of exhaust gas velocity.  Since finding the perfect tubing diameter that has highest velocity with minimal pressure drop is unrealistic, err on the larger side rather than smaller side.

Glad to hear!

yaaa spelling is not my thing lol. but thanks for the info

Question for the m42 folks. I've noticed that the ICV in my 1991 318is is quiet when I turn the key and when the car is running. No buzz/hum that I can feel or hear unless I use a mechanic's stethoscope and even then I can barely hear it. In comparison, the m20 ICV in the 1990 325i hums like an angry hornet when I turn the key. I found one post that said the VDO ICVs are quiet while the Bosch ones hum? I haven't checked to see which brand is on the car. ICV has been cleaned and ohms out correctly. Anyone else with a m42 care to weigh in on what is normal? Part of the reason for asking is that I still have a slight idle stumble that I'm trying to track down. Needle stays around 850 but seems like it misses at times. Only at idle. No miss/stumble under load. Vacuum hoses all replaced, new intake boot, plugs and wires replaced, oil filter housing gasket and o ring replaced and oil dipstick tube o-ring replaced (to solve some oil leak issues), coils ohm out correctly, sensors ohm out correctly (temp, CPS, etc). Could be intake manifold gaskets which I haven't replaced.

Feel you on the shocks for the vert cover. Replaced mine about a year ago. So nice to be able to drop or raise the top without having to hold onto the cover the whole time.

Check the slave cylinder first.  I would go over the system with a flashlight to try to find the leak.

They give you scrap price. You could easily sell it for more than $400 still

Awesome thanks Dominic!

Same here!

Been doing some research and haven't found anything useful so far. Is there a way to tighten the headrests on the front seats so they stay tipped forward instead of slowly tipping back on their own, and without having to tear the surface covering off?

jakesque said: Hey there dudes - So just did my first oil change on my E28 535I.  All went smoothly and I filled 'er up with 6 quarts.  The dipstick is right at the top notch.  But the "engine oil" check control light (above the windshield) keeps coming on after driving for about a minute.  It's not leaking oil... Any advice? Thanks - jake Oil capacity is approximately 5.3 US quarts. Your oil level sensor may be telling you that you overfilled it. Did you check the dipstick?

I am hoping someone local can lend me a d-sub crimper and d-sub pin insertion/removal tool. I have one wire that popped out of the pin in the db37 connector for my megasquirt and I would rather not spend the $20 and have to possibly wait for shipping of the tools for only one wire. If anyone can assist on this, that would be great! Thanks!

patsbimmer1 said: Vwvortex... what do they know! I love washers! They might not look the prettiest but the get the job done and are fairly accurate for figuring out what kind of shim or spacer you would need. Yes exactly. With the spacers in they do the EXACT same thing as the washers. I do obviously prefer the spacers because now when taking off that alternator. I don't have to sit their and figure out how many washers had to go where. I just gotta get the car running and completed. The guys over at vwv seem like they are all loaded rich and are not working on limited funds, time and they also seem like they have either a shop or a friend with a shop and a ton of tools and skills available.

Plus for recommending BluntTech! Even buying the cheapest options from reputable part venders can get you in trouble. I blew threw 2 cheap CSB's from BavAuto before spending the extra $15 on a Febi Bilstien CSB that has the correct offset for the driveshaft.

Won't it seize if he was running it dry? Or am I just under the impression that they use the fluid to lubricate the pump.

About to replace the gas charged struts for the seat recliners. Looking at an E30 repair guide that I have, it says to take out the two screws at the bottom of the seat back panels, and then pull off the handles on the latches for tipping the seats forward. These things seem for the life of me to be made out of sort of a fragile plastic. Can you really just pull these things outward and off without breaking them? My other questions are these: Do you really have to completely disassemble the seat to change these struts, or can they be changed by simply taking the seats out, removing the back covers and changing them? Does the filister screw that secures the top end of the strut require a special tool? My repair guide refers to a special tool when changing the struts. My only other question is regarding the caps that hold the end of the shock onto the stud at the bottom of the seat. It seems to have a black cap of some sort on it. I assume this just prys off and then taps back on? Or is it shot when it comes off and has to be replaced? The rest should be pretty straight forward  with regard to dis-assembly and reassembly. Inasmuch as I'd rather not, it looks like I'll have to remove the seats in order to access the hinge covers. Thanks.

As long as the wheels are 4x100 and have a 57.1 or larger center bore they are possible to fit. If the center bore is larger than 57.1 you can get hubcentric rings to take up the slop. The offset will be heavily affected by how wide the wheels are so feel free to run those numbers past us when you find wheels you like.

HipMF said: Well if I'm in an e21, then this is almost certainly true. [image: :lol:]  With 110hp (if I'm lucky) I don't need to worry much about wheelspin. Makes sense though. So the real problem is the body roll + MacPherson strut front suspension? Its the dynamic camber change caused by the body roll that creates the issue.

Dont fix it let it sit in your driveway for 3 months. Thats what Ive been doing with mine lol. I dont overheat just coolant leak and Ive replaced all the same you have minus water pump :/. When were you headgaskets last done? Sent from my LG-LS970 using Tapatalk