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  4. The "Random E30 Questions" Thread

The "Random E30 Questions" Thread

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  • RamRod E28R
    RamRod E28R
    RamRod E28
    wrote on last edited by
    #26

    I run farm and barn 15w-40 dizzle oils in my m20 in the e28 for my first oil flush thing in my super eta that i just swapped in

    1984 BMW 528e - SETA and manual swapped! M50 to come!!!

    1988 BMW 528e - Need parts?

    1991 Chevy C1500 (mighty 350 with TBI and Wisconsin weight reduction package)

    1996 Mazda Miata (SOLD!!!)

    1996 BMW 325i (Donor car)

    1998 Chevrolet Corvette (BEAST)

    2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee (BROKEN)

    3bc80c27-0937-43e3-9e7f-00404a337ec1zps

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    • jc43089J
      jc43089J
      jc43089
      wrote on last edited by
      #27

      The only way synthetic oil can "cause" a leak is by cleaning sludge buildup that is currently clogging a potential leak.  Some people think it damages seals/gaskets somehow, this is purely a myth.  I prefer to have the inside of my engine look like this, perfectly clean, no sludge anywhere.  This is after 5 years/45k after a rebuild.  I change the oil with royal purple HPS once a year (about 10k)

      021zps492247e5.jpg

      I also use Synthetic in my Maxima and Land Cruiser.  The Maxima did not start leaking and it had conventional oil until I switched around 170k, it is now at almost 220k.  The Land Cruiser leaks alot, but it did that before I made the switch, it is hard to tell if it is any worse so I'm not sure.

      2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
      3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
      '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

      '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

      '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
      '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
      '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

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      • m42b32M
        m42b32M
        m42b32
        wrote on last edited by
        #28

        Thanks for all the info guys, I ended up getting screwed on time and didn't change my oil yet. I went through the service history a bit and found that it had been run on castrol syntec for a while (full synthetic) so I am going to switch to a synthetic 15w50

        1991 318is, 1991 318i, 2022 Bronco

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        • D
          D
          Derflaminflitzer
          wrote on last edited by
          #29

          Rotella t 15w40. Its super cheap and im pretty sure my m42 loves it. So did my 1975 honda cb550. I wont use anything else ever

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          • YoungCRY
            YoungCRY
            YoungCR
            wrote on last edited by
            #30

            Derflaminflitzer said:

            Rotella t 15w40. Its super cheap and im pretty sure my m42 loves it. So did my 1975 honda cb550. I wont use anything else ever

            I second, haven't used it in my bmws yet but my truck has lived on rotella for 250k+. 1 gallon jugs can go on sale for $12 sometimes. Once I have the extra cash I wanna buy a barrel at farm and fleet for $550 haha.

            Chris Young
            BMWCCA #458972
            1986 528e/5  | 1994 530i/5 | 1995 540i/6 | 2013 X5 35d | 1998 C1500 Suburban | 1995 K2500 Suburban

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            • ClassEC
              ClassEC
              ClassE
              wrote on last edited by
              #31

              To those who have installed solid trans mounts in an E30. I just finished installing my solid engine mounts and trans mounts, and took the car for a quick test drive (1989 325IS, fairly stock M20). Engine/trans vibrations are fine, throttle response is great.... but under load between 3k-5k I feel a "rumble" from the driveline. I'm not sure if it's a "trans vibrating tunnel/chassis" rumble or a "Might lose a driveshaft" rumble. Any experience with a similar noise/vibration from others? I'm well aware I'll be feeling more vibrations and such through the car, but this one immediately had me going "uh-oh".

              Also - are the OEM trans mounts a "straight through" design? When I removed my original mounts, one mount had the studs a good 1/2" or more "off alignment" from one another. Not sure if the new trans mounts "corrected" this misalignment and is causing a vibration - or if that's totally acceptable.

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              • ClassEC
                ClassEC
                ClassE
                wrote on last edited by
                #32

                This thread will get an up-tick in posts from me as fall approaches.... Time to get some wrenching done!!!

                I need to order a CSB and guibo for my car, but after some searching it appears there's different sizes (year/model specific?). Also - everyone says to only get an OEM guibo, but everyone says to get them from different suppliers.

                -Pelican or Guten for both parts?

                -Best way to ensure I order the right parts?

                Thanks guys!

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                • B
                  B
                  B C
                  wrote on last edited by
                  #33

                  First of all, im the only one in the world that spells it correctly and I am trying to preach the truth.

                  G I U B O  

                  I personally dont have an issue running whatever brand giubo that pelican or any other reputable vendor would offer, just not some random Ebay Chinese  Lucky-Dragon Brand parts. For the center support bearing I would go with an OE unit for sure. it isn't a fun part to replace and from my perusings on the interweb it seems as if the cheaper ones dont hold up. The non-OE unit on my car  isnt noisy but the rubber isolator is already falling apart.

                  just say no to solid giubos

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                  • GunMetalGreyG
                    GunMetalGreyG
                    GunMetalGrey
                    wrote on last edited by
                    #34

                    You can always email Steve at Blunttech, he is a great guy and emails back amazingly fast regardless of when you email him. He is out of Minnesota so parts come amazingly fast and he is very willing to work with you.

                    ...

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                    • YoungCRY
                      YoungCRY
                      YoungCR
                      wrote on last edited by
                      #35

                      Plus for recommending BluntTech! Even buying the cheapest options from reputable part venders can get you in trouble. I blew threw 2 cheap CSB's from BavAuto before spending the extra $15 on a Febi Bilstien CSB that has the correct offset for the driveshaft.

                      Chris Young
                      BMWCCA #458972
                      1986 528e/5  | 1994 530i/5 | 1995 540i/6 | 2013 X5 35d | 1998 C1500 Suburban | 1995 K2500 Suburban

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                      0

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