I not sure if you are still having issues. As for the hard to start angle I think I have an idea. I know all of the modern BMWs have a saddle type fuel tank to accommodate the driveshaft. This means that there is one fuel pump and also a siphon pump to transfer fuel from the side without a pump to the side with the pump. I was thinking maybe if you parked on a specific angle where the fuel pooled to the side with the siphon pump it has no way to deliver it to the pump side. I'm not familiar with e30s however and don't know if the saddle type gas tank goes back that far.

I believe those are liquid crystal not LED. They are known to go bad over time.

CMart said: Do you ever find yourself in Milwaukee? Milwaukee area.  Oak Creek and Waukesha frequently during the month.  I'll be in Sturtevant tomorrow.

I've been using IR thermometers for years. You just plain can't measure the temp of a mirror surface for and example. You will be measuring the temp of the item in the reflection. To measure a soda can for example you have to put on a piece of tape. Same for ductwork. A surface probe thermocouple would be the accurate way to measure but an internal probe into some thermally conductive goo of some type would be a decent makeshift. Only trial n error you can get an accurate e value for the different surfaces but once determined should work well. High temp tape should work well Sent from my awrPhone using Tapatalk

Rowleym said: Hmm so any ideas? Where would you start. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk PM'd to prevent further thread jacking.

Hammerdown said: Last summer my CCV took a dive and hydrolocked the engine big time. Couldn't turn it over with a breaker bar on the crank pulley.  Search  "CCV Delete"  threads on E46 Fanatics for getting rid of that monster.  I  had mine venting to atmosphere in summer with hardly any drips, but in winter used an appropriate sized plastic bottle to catch oil/ water condensation at at times there was 3/4 cup each week! I'm with this guy on the delete. The cc set up they did on then is dumb. Mine hydro locked 2 times first was with wife driving -20 out put brand new winter kit in and did it again plus the valve cover exploded -15 out. The cv set up is great (if you live in warm areas) but this is wi. Weather changes every 20 mins. Catch can is great. I one on mine. Got rid of the car after winter.

^Just like he mixed up the grounds here?  [image: :shifty:]

Thanks for all the suggestions

The 4K is a problem. Even 2K is a problem, but not as bad as twice that. Thanks.

Anyone in the Oshkosh area available to help bleed a clutch quick? My help bailed not I need my car moving ASAP to get it painted by Monday

Thanks Bob. I actually picked up a C310 and it was able to clear my code. If anyone in Milwaukee needs to use it let me know.

Well it looks like you took on quite the project... What can we help you with?

This is a very cool take on a custom variable length intake manifold (VLIM) that an e21 member on BF has been working on. Possibly some inspiration for you guys. http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?2144807-Winter-Project-2014-2015-VLIM

straight6pwr said: The uuc shifter isn't adjustable for throw, only height of the shift knob. Yes it can reduce the throw effort a little by making it longer, but that doesn't make it work for more than one chassis. You could do the same thing by buying a taller shift knob. What I'm talking about is being able to adjust the distance between the pivot and the lower connection to the shift rod. Sorry, yes, adjustable height.  Still was a squishy mess.

I don't know exactly, but finding the diagrams in the etm would help you here. My guess is the stock radio harness probably grounds to a bracket or body in the drivers footwell. If you take out your radio and kick panel you should be able to follow the harness.

jc43089 said: When the hiccup happens does the tach flicker downward?  Mine did that and the outer shielding was damaged on the crank position sensor.  If the tach doesn't momentarily drop then carry on.  The CPS controls spark and feeds the tach. Nope. Tach doesn't budge. Thanks though.

I didn't do the conversion, just figured out to make it work after it had sat unused for a while, I remembered it when you mentioned mach 3 software. I went to school for electromechanical technology associates degree and that was my final project. The next step was to get the tool changer functional but we ran out of time. Sent from my potato phone

I did this on a friends 84 318 for his m50 swap, just put the square plug onto the motor harness because there is a lot more wire to work with if you don't get it right the first time.

found this, dont know if it helps: http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=13&ved=0CEYQFjAM&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.elektroda.pl%2Frtvforum%2Fdownload.php%3Fid%3D387661&ei=A-AuVZWEE4XEsAWijIBw&usg=AFQjCNGD0k3m3Sjd2nXvHAbE7HofuqyvzA&bvm=bv.90790515,d.b2w&cad=rja

Not plug and play for sure. Depending on year you'll need a frm swap. Some wiring done. And coding for sure. Ive never done it but google yelds some results. Without coding the ballasts wont fire. And the ahl will not function if ever because your car is likely not equipped with the level sensors