WIBIMMERS

Insurance won't pay you just because your car is broken. I think I'd lose more money by selling for cheap or junkie it than it would to fix it. It's a very clean and rust free black on black manual.

I will just be driving it until I get my Subaru forester back from the shop. Then it'll get parked while I work on it.

Yeah I still daily drive the car now. I just take it easy. $1,050 was from a shop in Greenfield just south of Southridge Mall. I can't remember the name of the shop right now. They said they could do a 2 day turn around on it. I'm just trying to keep cost down with my daughter due in about 3-4 weeks. I most likely won't consider this project until spring, but just trying to gather info now

I just have to pick up a set of plates. I'm in Racine, so not too far.

Yes I'm talking about the sheet metal on the chassis itself. It'll need the reinforcement plate kit welded in from the trunk side to repair.

Does anyone on here either themselves or know someone that can reinforce my rear subframe on my 93 325i for a decently cheap price? Possibly someone who's really good and fast with these cars who wants to make some extra cash to put into their project. I tore the passenger front rear subframe mount and need it repaired and all 4 reinforced. I was quoted $1,050 by a local shop, but with baby #2 due in 3 weeks money is going to be pretty tight for a while. I could just do it myself, but I really don't have a lot of free time now and probably won't for a while. Just song what my options are.

Can you PM me a price to clean up and coat a sway bar in blue? Thanks

What kind of dyno do you use? I'm assuming it's an awd dyno since you do subaru. I am shopping around for a tuner for my 04 forester xt that I'm building an engine for right now, and I'm sure I'll do some upgrades to my e36 sometime soon and will need that dyno'd or tuned as well. Very interested. Matter of fact I'll be in Kohler in a couple weeks.

How hard is it to o ring your own block? I'm half debating picking up a bare block and ringing it so I can slowly build up a backup engine for my 325i

I thought about removing simply to clean up my engine bay a little bit.

I do not have a stewart pump. As of now a stock one works just fine. I'll worry about spending $200 on that pump when my stock metal propeller one can't keep up

I may remove that canister. As of now I already have a mishimoto aluminum radiator, fan delete mod, aluminum water pump and thermostat housing, just bought an electric puller fan, and trying to track down an aluminum coolant reservoir.

So I am thinking about trying to free up some horsepower as well as clean up some of my engine bay. So I am thinking about removing some emissions stuff since this is an obd 1 1993 325i m50tu motor. What can I all remove that is not necessary? Is there a forum thread somewhere covering that?

I'll look into safety wiring the nut.

I'll pass on the h1c. From what ive read it has a very slow/late spool. Hx35 is supposed to be much faster

Yea Drleadfoot, any advice is appreciated. I'm leaning towards the hx35 for a turbo, not set on tuning, but I've started looking into megasquirt 3. Until something breaks, I plan to run low boost. Then I'll rebuild and put some money into making it a reliable street car.

Yea I was leaning towards a t3 manifold. Most likely going with an hx35 or an eBay gt35 until I get the extra funds together for the real deal.

I have been reading on E85 on a FI application on our motors and do see positive things. How much mileage decrease do you expect while being tuned on E85? I love my 29mpg hwy. Haha.

I'm thinking a t3 obx top mount manifold, hx35, 6-8psi, with 42lb injectors, to start and get it running good. Aim for 325-350hp. Then when I have to replace the head gasket or rebuild the motor, I'll switch to an E85 setup to run higher boost safer. Also adding an enormous amount of power. If I'm not mistaken, a stock 10.5:1 motor with an hx35, about 15psi boost, 1000cc injectors, walboro 255, and E85 should get me in the 450-500hp range. Am I correct in that estimation?

Also for anyone running E85, what kind of O rings, hoses, and seals do you guys run?

Well I don't think i could put my intercooler right between the radiator and engine. Too tight of a fit. I haven't really given much thought to a t3 vs t4 manifold. Suggestions?

I think I'll pass on the h1c, I'm thinking it'll spool too slow for what I'm looking for. I just might be interested in the manifold and wastegate, pm me asking prices. One i finish my sti swap on my forester xt, then I'll start getting parts for the 325i.

Once my head gasket goes I was planning a .140 mls to lower the compression ratio a little.

I may look into getting megasquirt first, installing it, and seeing what I can do with my stock motor first. I'll have to do some reading on the install and how to make adjustments

Do you guys think I should track down a set of s50/S52 cams for it as well right away? I was thinking the turbo would be plenty of power up front, so I shouldn't need to worry about them. Plus that would save me another $400 I could put towards my turbo budget. I figured once I had to rebuild or install a new head gasket, I would install new cams at that point.

I'll have to really read up on megasquirt. I'm not really looking forward to a rats nest worth of wires, but if it's a mich better system I would go with that.

Btw, yes my motor does have vanos.

I have no experience with adjusting tunes. I have an open port 2.0 on my subaru, so I am used to looking at tune tables, data logging, and learning views on there. I've just never had experience making my own adjustments. That would be my only hesitation.

What does megasquirt 3 cost?

How is megasquirt? I've seen a few build threads with it. I've never used it before, and I know nothing about it