WIBIMMERS

Well spoken pat, I went to the car auction dead set on getting LEXUS 330 or Volvo XC90 but the X5 that wasn't on my radar specifically because it wasn't in the top ten lists of reliable used cars "found me".

You have to be able to do minor car repair yourself to want X5 but that same skill set will save you $1000s independent of which car you get.

+10 on the comments about back seat and baby seat. Make sure one fits and can be installed and removed easily and holds tight. (Best test is an adult kneeling inside: also fantastic way to get the straps tight as hell).

It's not an accurate statement to say I have two to keep one running, it's just an extraordinary perk. At first I had one. I was very ok with dealing with the *periodic* failures and before purchase I has already looked up the prices of most of the typical parts that wear out and break (fuel pump, water pump, thermostat, ac compressor) and they weren't appreciably more expensive than a Saturn. It's the labor and insisting on using genuine BMW for all parts. A car with 140,000 on the clock doesn't warrant a $600 original cv axle when a $120 with a warranty can be found.

Since E70 most likely my next car time to start planning on which engine might be M54 similar in reliability. The M54 is a beauty for sure. Maybe look at the 2006?

The most significant thing is: bond with the car: it's home away from home. Make sure the seat will go in and out and you won't take an eye out on the sharp corner of the door while doing so.

Oh one very significant thing: I hate one piece tailgates almost as I hate the minivans they are usually attached to. I didn't realize this until *thankfully* I'd already gotten the X5 which has a SPLIT tailgate. There are half a dozen reasons why but two of the biggies are: ➀ far easier to load as you always have an empty platform to set things before Tetris packing and ➁ no avalanche of crap falls out because you can open the top first to check on things.

Go check out in person let us know what you decide.

A big part of me deciding to get not one but two x5 e53 was the 3.0 engine is a solid amazing piece of work. When I bought mine with 128,000 on the clock it didn't have a sign of oily dust on it anywhere. Not a drop. Sadly since then the oil seal failed at the top of the oil filter and now it needs a serous engine scrub. In my case part of why we doubled down is having a second machine from which I can harvest a part for either testing or emergencies. Example: wife's cam shaft sensor failed an hour drive away. Got a ride home stole my cps from my car drove back and swapped the cps and got her car back home. Ordered new cps to put in my car. I had just replaced about 9 mo. Earlier in my car so that one should be good another 5000-7000 hours.

If you are a handy person I wouldn't consider the x5 a car that is too high of maintenance to take out of contention.

When I bought my much older (01) x5 from auction my first choice was an xc90 until I looked at a few and every single one had terrible damage to the drivers seat due to a design flaw. Look at an old used xc90 you will see what I mean.

I love working on the x5 and In 2 years with two 2001s we have spent maybe $12-1500. When factoring in $0/mo payment and that our insurance with $0 deductible is $90/month for TWO, it gives us effectively 80-100 mpg.

I still love the XC series of Volvo and wouldn't avoid one. For me the x5 is the perfect vehicle. When mine is retired I will get another newer model year.

Trying to find a photo online and found another related issue apparently another xc90 design flaw flings the seat belt buckle forcibly into the b pillar and damages the fabric. Volvos official response was to hold the belt as it retracts to avoid the problem. Yeah, right that's going to happen.

The seat if I recall has some plastic contraption to cover the belt mechanism and its flimsy and you slide over it on entrance and exit. It will break, 100% of the time.

100% of the used xc90s I looked at had this issue. They were older models so hopefully they revised the design but look at a model a few years older than your intended purchase to see what to expect. I was very disappointed to see otherwise 10/10 vehicles with a 3/10 looking wear in one place but where you see it every time you get in the car.

Nice.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Want cute kids: "marry hot". Bonus if likes cars. She was envious when I got my x5: "when do I get mine"!?

Answer: 3.5 months later. We have his n hers 2001 e53/M54.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

straight6pwr said:

part do you think piano black would be good for?

The header plates. It wasn't clear when I first posted, I thought you were simply going to cover the exhaust ports with the flat piece of wood. What you did was perfect really.

I'd have used some "low quality latex caulk" for the welds because after a few test beads you should be able to simulate welding bead. Your solution is probably better long term as it will be harder and less likely to flake.

The circ. saw blades have come a long way. I have a "bad blade" designed to cut anything so I don't have to switch blades to cut a metal bar or a framing board. I do have specific blades that go much faster through metal or wood though.

Showed my wife the latest pic of your project and her reply "I want one of those in my living room". Guess that is some good feedback.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Unless perhaps black and rubbed to a smooth hard finish. Yeah I went there. Seriously though piano finish black vs wood grain. Absolutely love the engine block table and super smart to add the wheels

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Wood doesn't feel right I'd have used clear plexi or metal/paint the wood (maybe with BMW logo and the black/gray stripes like engine cover) otherwise fantastic idea. I have a rim from my first favorite car been aiming to do similar for a while

Sent from my awrPhone using Tapatalk

You won't beat the Milwaukee M18 or M12 lights. They are cordless but you will prefer cordless once you use them. The M12 lantern will last all day or night on medium power.

Sent from my awrPhone using Tapatalk

I've been using IR thermometers for years. You just plain can't measure the temp of a mirror surface for and example. You will be measuring the temp of the item in the reflection. To measure a soda can for example you have to put on a piece of tape. Same for ductwork. A surface probe thermocouple would be the accurate way to measure but an internal probe into some thermally conductive goo of some type would be a decent makeshift. Only trial n error you can get an accurate e value for the different surfaces but once determined should work well. High temp tape should work well

Sent from my awrPhone using Tapatalk

If the coating is harder or has a satin or matte finish that is unique it would be cool. Also maybe it adheres better for a more reliable rim seal

Sent from my awrPhone using Tapatalk

iR thermometer doesn't work on "shiny" did you take actual measurements with a surface probe? Without knowing the "e" of the surface and dialing the IR to that e value you can't directly compare especially when the coating is changing the e on purpose. I've temp'd metal pipe that is 300f but reads 120 because it's averaging in the reflection of the room.

The coating looks awesome. How tough is it and could it be used on wheels?

Sent from my awrPhone using Tapatalk

I have a trip planned to Madison next Sunday. Is love to get some nice pics with my new prototype wheel paint job.

I have a "7 pack" of corona already in the back (was an "11 pack" before a friend helped me build this:

A close up of my new wheel (design in progress)

Picked up my "new to me" X5 on Apr 22. Two days before my son's 7th birthday.

I built a custom roof rack and custom back pack rack. The roof rack is made from conduit unstrut and has spring nuts so I can position a 1/2 inch bolt and bracket anywhere.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk