WIBIMMERS

ZGR5A is typical over the counter stuffs, no prescription needed.

So far I've checked the fuse, the switch and the rear plug. The fuse is fine as the switch illuminates when I press it. I'm not getting any power at the connector plug to the fan motor, although I'm not certain that is because there isn't power coming from the switch. The defroster fan motor has what appears to be an external resistor and possibly also a circuit breaker attached to the outside of the fan housing. Again, electrical isn't my strong point, so is there a way to test both the resistor and circuit breaker to see if they're working? My assumption at this point is that since they're there, they must ultimately provide power to the fan which may be why I'm not getting power at the plug. My wiring is fully wrapped and fine as far as I can trace it, as this car was in nearly new condition when I bought it a few years ago with all wiring unhacked. Right now my assumption, until proven otherwise, is that I have either a bad resistor, circuit breaker, fan, or a combination of any of the three.

It yes, sometimes it is necessary to reset ecu. I swapped a lightweight flywheel into an e36 and it would hardly idle, reset ecu and it was perfectly smooth again. It has a learning process to adapt to the specific engine. Pretty awesome technology for the time. Sent from my 831C using Tapatalk

straight6pwr said: yeah those are good tires. same tread pattern as nokian hakkas, hancook iPike, etc. i always used 185s for the e30 for winter. less overall grip, but helps not getting stuck with the deeper snow. Cool. That's what I want. Just don't need to get stuck. I'll look for some 60's later in the season for summer. Thinking Hankook right now as I've had good luck with them and they're reasonably priced.

You're probably right. Was doing some reading on E30tech and hearing about all of the bad luck everybody has had with VR gaskets. Sounds like the goetze and FelPro might be worth a risk, but it also sounded like the BMW gasket, although more expensive, was far better quality.

The 4K is a problem. Even 2K is a problem, but not as bad as twice that. Thanks.

jc43089 said: When the hiccup happens does the tach flicker downward?  Mine did that and the outer shielding was damaged on the crank position sensor.  If the tach doesn't momentarily drop then carry on.  The CPS controls spark and feeds the tach. Nope. Tach doesn't budge. Thanks though.

New cables are pretty cheap and not too hard to install. When I bought mine I had to use the screwdriver through the grill for awhile until I got the cable installed.

An oil leak won't cause overheating, but a broken fan belt sure could. I drove my e30 m20 car from 145k to 245k miles with oil leaking from the front of the engine same as you. Doesn't affect anything unless you care about the cleanliness of your parking spot.

patsbimmer1 said: My experience with KYB on customers vehicles has been fair but the complaints I have had are rough ride and premature wear.  I have had far more luck installing Monroe's on customers vehicles. Great info! Thanks.

Yes it is. The only saving grace I had last week with the cold temps was the heated seats.

I did the shark injector on my dad's e46 330i and there was a noticeable difference in power.  The most noticeable change was the immediate throttle response from the drive-by-wire settings changing.

Thanks all. Found a pump like the ones a few of you mentioned at Auto Zone. Now to pick up some fluid, and then make sure I can get the two plugs out before I start.

FWIW I'm running Redline D4 ATF in the 318is MT.

Glad to hear!

Feel you on the shocks for the vert cover. Replaced mine about a year ago. So nice to be able to drop or raise the top without having to hold onto the cover the whole time.

Been doing some research and haven't found anything useful so far. Is there a way to tighten the headrests on the front seats so they stay tipped forward instead of slowly tipping back on their own, and without having to tear the surface covering off?

About to replace the gas charged struts for the seat recliners. Looking at an E30 repair guide that I have, it says to take out the two screws at the bottom of the seat back panels, and then pull off the handles on the latches for tipping the seats forward. These things seem for the life of me to be made out of sort of a fragile plastic. Can you really just pull these things outward and off without breaking them? My other questions are these: Do you really have to completely disassemble the seat to change these struts, or can they be changed by simply taking the seats out, removing the back covers and changing them? Does the filister screw that secures the top end of the strut require a special tool? My repair guide refers to a special tool when changing the struts. My only other question is regarding the caps that hold the end of the shock onto the stud at the bottom of the seat. It seems to have a black cap of some sort on it. I assume this just prys off and then taps back on? Or is it shot when it comes off and has to be replaced? The rest should be pretty straight forward  with regard to dis-assembly and reassembly. Inasmuch as I'd rather not, it looks like I'll have to remove the seats in order to access the hinge covers. Thanks.

Same here!

As long as the wheels are 4x100 and have a 57.1 or larger center bore they are possible to fit. If the center bore is larger than 57.1 you can get hubcentric rings to take up the slop. The offset will be heavily affected by how wide the wheels are so feel free to run those numbers past us when you find wheels you like.