2011 328i Longroof - The Saga Continues
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First batch of parts has arrived!
Hoping to find time this weekend or next to get the shocks installed, oil changed, and serpentine belt/pulley/tensioner replaced. It’ll go in fairly soon for the wheels to be re-balanced, and it’ll be aligned in the spring when I’m done replacing some other suspension bits. At this point, planning for:
- Front shocks
- Front upper and lower control arms (replacing with the TRW M3 parts)
- Rear subframe bushing inserts. I know full bushing replacement is ideal but I don’t care to jump in that far just yet.
- Any other rear bushings the shop notes as torched. Anyone who has done rear end work on an e90, are there any bushings or ball joints in particular that tend to go earlier than others? Ideally I’d like to not have to replace everything at oncoming the entire car, so if I can do a few things on the rear and the whole front this year, and other rear bushings later, that would be ideal.
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Swapped out rear shocks and mounts tonight with OE Lemforder sport shocks (white label). Much improved ride in the rear, rebound damping is much better and it doesn’t huck stuff into the air anymore. I could handle a little more stiffness though, so I may experiment with Bilstein HD’s if I get antsy. Should be more than OK for now, front struts and control arms are definitely a higher priority.
Very impressed with the ease of this job, the hardest part was removing the plastic caps by where the parcel cover attaches. Otherwise, really intuitive and simple. Everything goes back into place with minimal effort and fits nicely.
Replaced serpentine belt, idler, and tensioner as well on Sunday using the FCP Euro kit, continental belt and INA (?) idler and tensioner? Went in easy other than getting the belt back on the harmonic balancer, there’s a tight spot near the bottom that the belt doesn’t like to thread through. Took about 20 minutes total to get the belt back on, and checked with mirrors to make sure it was fully seated. It was, and it made the trip back to MKE tonight so I think we’re all good.
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KONI shocks are a ton better then Bilsteins.
I’ve never had new versions of either; I have some older Bilstein sports on the E30 and they’re decent. Any specific E90 experience with that recommendation or just a general statement? I know that’s what’s recommended for E34’s, the e34 bilsteins are known to be rock-hard.
I probably won’t do it either way, we’ll see how I like the current stiffness with the 19s this summer. My guess is that OE sport is going to be just right, but hey, nothing wrong with dreaming.
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Plates arrived!
Im already getting itchy on changing to the Ice Age Trail ones in March when they release, but we’ll see.
The black looks spectacular I think so it’ll be really hard to beat. Maybe I’ll get a set for the e28 to take off after I sell it and keep for decoration?
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124,073
Drained and refilled transmission using Liqui-Moly Top Tec 1800 (Dexron 6), replaced the trans filter and gasket, and all new hardware. I forgot to take photos because I suck at forums.
Old fluid was definitely very dark and this was definitely the factory fill, but better late than never I suppose. From some research, 130-150k is getting to the range of where it might not be worth it to risk, but the number of success stories with 120-130k gave me some confidence. I wasn’t getting trans slip before doing it but it was starting to shift a little jerkier when cold so I wanted to try to get ahead of any issues before it was too late. Magnet had metal on it but didn’t seem much worse than the magnets I’ve seen on cars with it changed at 60-80k; it seems that a lot of that debris is from initial break-in.
Don’t want to jump the gun, but it definitely seems to shift smoother now. We’ll see how it goes the next few days and I’ll report back.
Going to order power steering fluid to do a flush there, change out the diff oil, and probably replace the front tension arms with M3 parts as I’m sure they’re toasted by now. I also have a brake vibration that was worsened lately so diagnosing that with a temp gun to see if one is hanging or has some nasty deposits is also on the list.
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Did this ice age trail plate ever come out? It looks pretty sweet
I don’t believe so. Last I heard it was originally supposed to release in March but got pushed back a month or two. I’d bet it’ll release in the next month.
I think I’m going to get one for the e91. I like the RA plate but the IAT one is just funky and different.
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126,006
Summer mode engaged!
Installed the only aesthetic mod I had planned, LED angel eyes. I didn’t like how the original halogen ones didn’t match the xenon low beams or the license plate/under door courtesy lights, I’m liking the LED much better. Not perfect in terms of color but pretty close and for the price I’m happy.
Installed a new cupholder trim piece, only like $20 from FCP. Worth it.
Headlight 2K clear is on the way, that’s next on the list. I also have the M3 arms sitting in a box along with 3 cans of Pentosin, as well as the stuff for the diff service. Going to check the front left wheel bearing while I’m in there for the arms, that’s the only corner that is warmer than the others but it doesn’t behave quite like a dragging caliper. Oil arrived as well. Just need to get the e34 VANOS buttoned up so I have something to drive if stuff goes sideways, then the e91 will get its attention.
Been loving this so far though! Utility is unbeatable, the n52 w/ M performance exhaust is a peach and sounds perfect, and the look speaks for itself. However, if anyone ever sees a n52 manual parts car, please let me know…
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I'm stoked to see this car getting the love it deserves!
However, if anyone ever sees a n52 manual parts car, please let me know…
I like this.
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I'm stoked to see this car getting the love it deserves!
I like this.
I need to not get too far ahead of myself and actually finish the e30 manual swap, but I feel like it’s a good prep for one on this. I was shocked at how well laid out everything was once the belly pan came off, I think mechanically the swap shouldn’t be bad at all. The DME coding looks like a challenge, but I’ll figure it out.
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I need to not get too far ahead of myself and actually finish the e30 manual swap, but I feel like it’s a good prep for one on this. I was shocked at how well laid out everything was once the belly pan came off, I think mechanically the swap shouldn’t be bad at all. The DME coding looks like a challenge, but I’ll figure it out.
Believe it or not, the coding changes shouldn't be that bad. Bimmergeeks protool can change the vehicle order and then appropriately code every subsequent module to match.
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127,254
M3 control arms are installed! This car has been a joy to work on so far with how clean it is underneath. I really should fluid film it this year to keep it that way…
Found that the drivers side was leaking fluid from the bushing (that’s an odd sentence, brought to you by none other than German engineers), and both driver and passenger side had some cracking/were soft. Ball joints still seemed tight.
The first side took a little over an hour by the time I figured out where all the screws were on the fender liner and that the wheel had to be pointing straight ahead for the bushing side to install nicely. The second side took maybe 40 minutes tops. An easy job overall, and WELL worth the effort.
Almost completely solved the shudder under braking (what’s left is barely noticeable and is likely actually from the brakes themselves, or maybe another bad bushing), quieted down the ride, smoothed out the ride, and made the thing handle like a go-kart. Seriously, a car like this has no right to feel as planted and flat as this does. Night and day in the corners, highly recommend doing it if your bushings are getting old. I’d guess it’s a combo of the stiffer m3 bushings and just not having roached ones, but hey, either way I’m not complaining.
PS flush up next, along with that diff oil change and the headlight restoration. Beyond that, I found the drivers side strut is leaking so those are definitely due for replacement, along with the front upper control arms. I’d like to do rear subframe inserts before digging into rear bushings, there’s so many damned arms and linkages back there.
I’m also planning on subtracting the e28 from the fleet as soon as it’s running, and adding this…
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Weirdly on similar paths between this car and mine.
I am planning on doing the control arms up front as well as I am getting some creaking when I am turning at low speeds. I also would like to do fluid film this year as well, have to figure out which one to go with. Ive heard good things about Liqui Moly's but don't know how readily available it is over here.
I also just bought a Specialized Rockhopper. Is this the Marlin or a different model? Guessing it's different looking at the frame and the drop seat. I was back and forth between the Marlin and the Rockhopper.
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Weirdly on similar paths between this car and mine.
I am planning on doing the control arms up front as well as I am getting some creaking when I am turning at low speeds. I also would like to do fluid film this year as well, have to figure out which one to go with. Ive heard good things about Liqui Moly's but don't know how readily available it is over here.
I also just bought a Specialized Rockhopper. Is this the Marlin or a different model? Guessing it's different looking at the frame and the drop seat. I was back and forth between the Marlin and the Rockhopper.
I had a friend do the NH oil undercoating and really like it, but it requires a spray gun (which isn’t the end of the world but does complicate things). I haven’t done a ton of research yet but I trust liqui moly’s stuff, we’ll see what I find when I enter that internet rabbit hole.
Creaking, interesting. If it’s not control arm bushings, maybe top mounts?
That one is a Trek Roscoe (the 8 in particular), I figured I’d spring a little and get a step up. I’ve never bought a new bike and really want something I don’t need to tinker with and will do what I need out of the box, and the Roscoe seems to fit the bill and be a good bike to grow into as I MTB more. I’m picking up a road bike tonight as well, going to replace my old hybrid with two more dedicated bikes.
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I had a friend do the NH oil undercoating and really like it, but it requires a spray gun (which isn’t the end of the world but does complicate things). I haven’t done a ton of research yet but I trust liqui moly’s stuff, we’ll see what I find when I enter that internet rabbit hole.
Creaking, interesting. If it’s not control arm bushings, maybe top mounts?
That one is a Trek Roscoe (the 8 in particular), I figured I’d spring a little and get a step up. I’ve never bought a new bike and really want something I don’t need to tinker with and will do what I need out of the box, and the Roscoe seems to fit the bill and be a good bike to grow into as I MTB more. I’m picking up a road bike tonight as well, going to replace my old hybrid with two more dedicated bikes.
Top mounts were done with the rest of the suspension. I’m going to get the 4 piece kit that FCP sell. Did you have ramps you were able to set the car on while you did the final torquing of the bushings? That’s honestly the biggest challenge is being able to get the car under load while still being able to torque them.
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Top mounts were done with the rest of the suspension. I’m going to get the 4 piece kit that FCP sell. Did you have ramps you were able to set the car on while you did the final torquing of the bushings? That’s honestly the biggest challenge is being able to get the car under load while still being able to torque them.
I have ramps, but my torque wrench would’ve been wayyyyy too long for doing it under the car. I ended up jacking up via the brake rotor hat with a lock of wood between it and the jack (not ideal, but it worked). I figured if it’s off slightly and they wear out prematurely, I have the lifetime replacement
️.
Let me know how the upper control arms go, I didn’t do those just for the sake of time and really should get those finished too.
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