Tossed a different set of wheels on the 240 today...
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What's the hp gain? Nice job on the fabrication.
Thanks. Power will all depend on how much boost, from what turbo, I run. Stock against stock, the b230ft 4 cylinder I was running was rated at 160hp from the factory, and the b5234t 5 cylinder I'm using now was rated at 240hp from the factory... although all of that is more or less irrelevant at this point of modification. Some claim that the 4 cylinders can hold more power, but it really comes down to preference. I wanted a newer, modern, smooth running engine, without getting too heavy.
I'm not a fan of compromising driveability for an arbitrary number that makes my car internetcool, BUT I'd like to see 380-420whp with very little lag and rather wide powerband. I plan to sell my soul for a Garrett GTX3067r, which is going to be the secret to a good amount of power with great response.
Some awesome work you're doing!!
Thanks Dave. I really owe you a ride... we'll have to coordinate a day this summer when both of our cars are out and the sun is shining.
don't know crap about volvo 5 cyl engines, but what kind of HP can it handle? based on what you are replacing you must be shooting for 400+?
I wouldn't be worried about running this up to 500whp as it sits. The factory rods are the weak point, and I replaced those with forged h-beam units. The 5 cylinder is nice because it's such a nice tidy package. I chose it for a few reasons...
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Internals for Volvo engines are cheaper than BMW engines
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I got the majority of the parts needed for a massive discount because I know others who are 5 cyl afficionados
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buying 5 of everything is a lot cheaper than buying 6 of everything.
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this 5 cylinder is lighter, keeps the weight lower and farther back toward the center of the car.
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More.
I've been a bit lazy lately--I just want the garage to be warm already!
The head, waterpump, and pan are on now. I did a quick test fit of the alternator and power steering pump. Now that I know that all works, I can pull it back off and send some things out for blasting & finishing.
I just got the valve cover back with two 10an bungs welded on (with baffles). I need to decide on a color for powdercoating the cam cover, and once that is done I can put the cams in and install the cam cover for good.
Here's the same transmission I used with the 4 cyl--a getrag 265 from a '85 e28 535i. I intend to use this with the 5 cyl as well. I love the way it feels and seeing how all of the other incidentals are already in place, might as well keep using it. I'm in the process of drawing up a bellhousing adapter plate that will mate the getrag to a Volvo 960 bellhousing that I also have around. Can't wait to get that done... this is a bit of a learning process.
Another step coming up shortly is to modify the waterpipe. I have a Volvo 960 pipe ready to be modified as needed, but I'm going to wait to do anything with it until I have the turbo in hand. I *think* I want to do a GTX3067R and make use of the external wastegate flange already on the manifold. Admittedly, I'm a bit anxious about making that decision.
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Those are such "busy" looking castings. It makes the engine look very industrial and cyborg-like.
I dont think im making sense.
They really are. Complete nightmare to clean.
I'll toss camgears on soon to give it a bit more johnny 5/cyborg look.
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Those are such "busy" looking castings. It makes the engine look very industrial and cyborg-like.
I dont think im making sense.
would make a great coffee table engine, especially with a big fat turbo bolted to it.
Dan
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would make a great coffee table engine, especially with a big fat turbo bolted to it.
Yeah, a friend in Chicago is doing that with one of his spare engines of this type.
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Now onto one of the harder parts of this swap: making a transmission work with this engine
And after lots of measuring, I drew up the bellhousing adapter this morning.
Bellhousing side
Transmission side
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I love seeing self-designed parts on peoples builds. Are you going to send the 3D file to a machine shop or are you going to give them a dimensioned print? If machining it from a block of alum is too pricey then I would have it quoted as 2 separate laser burnouts (plate) that get welded together and ground flat.
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I love seeing self-designed parts on peoples builds. Are you going to send the 3D file to a machine shop or are you going to give them a dimensioned print? If machining it from a block of alum is too pricey then I would have it quoted as 2 separate laser burnouts (plate) that get welded together and ground flat.
Yeah, this was fun to do. Definitely the most complex/crucial part I've designed before. The thought is to send the 3D file, but if that doesn't work I can supply dimensioned drawings. I'm planning on having it machined out of one chunk. Material isn't cheap, but that's why eBay exists
Custom parts are awsome!
If you are looking for a place to make it let me know. Send me a file and I'll send you a price
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thanks, I'll send you a message! I don't yet have a plan for getting this machined.
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Thanks, I'll send you a message! I don't yet have a plan for getting this machined.
Can't wait to check it out. I have a supplier for material I work with so material may not be as expensive as you think.
1976 530i e12
1990 325ix e30
1992 325i e36
1995 740il e38
2001 330xi e46
^More to come
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...I got the transmission adapter plate! Very relieved to have this done. Jeff did an awesome job. I highly recommend him.
I threw a bunch of money at a proper pressure plate. It's a Sachs 707. I'll use this with a single mass flywheel from a Volvo 850 and the same organic e34 M5 clutch disc I used previously. Here's hoping it's not terrible to drive, but holds all the power I'll ever need.
I found a pilot bearing to suit the 5 cyl crank and getrag 265.
Pulled the old engine wiring out and labeled some things so I don't forget. I need to find a good place to mount the megasquirt shortly.
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Gosh dang that's a really neat piece
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crossposting from my thread in volvo-la-la-land. apologies if anything doesn't make sense.
I've been trying to keep good forward momentum with this project. It seems like I've gotten a lot done recently, but these pictures make it seem otherwise somehow...
I got a proper Tilton throwout bearing--so far it seems really nice. I need to drill and tap mounting holes for this and then space it out to the right position (~.75" of spacer if I recall correctly, but I need to triple check the measurements)
Today, a fuel rail came together, thanks to heavy intervention from a couple friends. I wanted a bolt-on fuel rail without too much internal restriction, and provisions for a 6AN feed fitting on the firewall end, a 1/8" NPT bung for a pressure transducer on the other end, and a FPR mounted on the rail between runners 1 and 2...
This is what we ended up with:
It's an S70 rail that has less internal restriction than the 850 rail, which we milled to accept the 850 FPR, and countersunk to fit beneath the factory injector retainer. We drilled out the original brass end cap and then milled an aluminum 1/8" NPT bung that was then welded in. My friend also welded a 6AN male bung to the firewall end of the rail. Additionally, I decided to take advantage of the extra port in the manifold (what was intended for the factory feed line) to also install a pulse dampener... if that actually does anything. A lot of fiddling, but I'm very pleased with it.
Let's see... what else. Cams and valve cover are installed, and the engine is timed. Zach powdercoated a bunch of stuff for me and it came out fantastic (which is now all dusty in the pictures). Wiring has also started.
I also have a great little bulkhead connector for the engine wiring at the firewall. I'm currently using 47 of 55 pins. A large chunk of megasquirt wiring inside the car is in progress.
I did buy a new stainless heater hose connector plate dingus that will get rid of that rusty eyesore...
Engine mounts brackets are in with new Yoshifab HD rubber engine mounts. As it turns out, these mounts are shorter than factory 240 mounts, so I had to compensate by adding spacers to get them to the 50mm total height I need. My friend milled these spacers as well.
In the process of getting the engine to fit, I had to pull it out a couple times to clearance the webbing on the oil pan until it was pretty flush with the oil transfer tube pocket.
Next step? I really need to buy my turbo. Also, throttle body linkage needs to get sorted out.
and then everything else.
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So you will have a return loop fuel setup? I just had my fuel pump electronic module fail on my P2 and discovered the complexity of the non return system...
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Yep, using a standard return loop setup. Sticking with what I know works.
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It'll be convenient for my 4 minute F1 pit crew engine removals.
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