Tossed a different set of wheels on the 240 today...
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You dont have to keep adding BMW parts to you car to post here ya know I love seeing your car
Deal. (Although I have been having indecent thoughts again lately about a 6 cylinder)
I built a new set of front coilovers. These are 3" shorter than factory struts and have Koni Race inserts in them (of the single adjustable variety. They will replace the current coilovers I put in last year that are 2.25" shorter than factory and have revalved Bilsteins good for about 350lb springs.
After doing some research I decided on what transmission fluid to use in the Getrag 265 (or in this case, what mix of fluids). A number of people sang the praises of Redline MTL in this box, but after doing a little more reading, I found that a mix of Redline MTL with 80w/90 gear oil seems to be the ideal recipe. I'll change that fluid in the next week or two and see for myself how it works.
I finally got around to installing a few rear suspension bits I've had sitting. Specifically Koni Race shocks (originally spec'd by koni for dirt-racing trucks), shortened trailing arms with new Genuine Volvo bushings, and a fresh adjustable panhard bar. This was well worth the effort and expense. The new shocks are fantastic.
Lastly, it was time for a turbo rebuild, so I figured why not swap out the 16t compressor wheel and housing for a 20t billet compressor wheel and housing while I'm at it. I also got a genuine Mitsubishi rebuild kit which seems to be very comprehensive. I'm pretty excited to get this all in the car--not expecting huge gains, but a reasonable bump in output potential with a freshly rebuilt turbo sounds great to me.
That's all for now.
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Shortened trailing arms. I gotta wonder about that. Any explanation? Stock ones shortened?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Looks like a similar function as e36 ones. Shortening them would correct excessive negative camber from lowering.
Sent from my potato phone
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wow, id really like a snail with an integrated blowoff valve like that, Looks like theres a recirculation passage cast into the housing as well.
Yeah, I quite like that setup. That's how Volvo did it from the factory on the cars with TD04 turbos. I made sure to get the same deal with the new larger compressor housing. It's nice simple packaging that works well.
Shortened trailing arms. I gotta wonder about that. Any explanation? Stock ones shortened? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Looks like a similar function as e36 ones. Shortening them would correct excessive negative camber from lowering. Sent from my potato phone
They are stock arms that are shortened ~20mm. This is solely for the purpose of centering the axle in the fender wheel opening after significant lowering. No camber on the rear of these cars unfortunately! Solid axle.
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Quick update: I've done a bunch of little things lately, but I'm lazy, so I'll just leave it to this for now. This past weekend I took the car to LMT's dyno day.
The car ended up putting down 246whp and 268wtq. I was a little disappointed, until I asked one of the operators to watch the boost gauge, and then found out it was running 16psi instead of the 20psi I've been running on the street. In addition, it was running super rich (AFRs were off the chart which bottoms out at 10:1 on both dyno readout and my wideband).
I guess considering this car had 85whp in stock form, and the engine I'm using had 130whp in stock form... this isn't too bad for now.
https://www.youtube.com/embed/gsifPQZfMa8
Time for more tuning, and more boost. I'd like to see ~300whp out of this setup. My new tune just arrived yesterday, so I'll see what that does.
And of course more sorting. The sorting never ends. And six cylinder scheming.
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I haven't weighed it, but it should be around 2800lbs.
I need to work quickly on getting the new tune settled in--cold weather setting in makes traction a bit more of an issue. I'm not sure how the RT615Ks will react to even colder temps.
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That is a lot more than I expected to the wheels, nice job!
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Thanks! It's pretty fun extracting power out of these old tractor motors. I'm pretty conservative with this one, but it's impressive what sort of abuse they will take at high mileage.
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I got it from Kinugawa turbo. It was definitely nicer than previous rebuild kits I've used.
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I dig the integral WG + integral BOV turbos kinugawa makes. About half the price of the Borg Warners. They have a couple other hard-ish to find odds and ends too like a bolt-on AN fitting for the oil return.
Nice torque curve for a single cam!
Are you toying with the idea of a bmw i6 swap?
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I dig the integral WG + integral BOV turbos kinugawa makes. About half the price of the Borg Warners. They have a couple other hard-ish to find odds and ends too like a bolt-on AN fitting for the oil return. Nice torque curve for a single cam! Are you toying with the idea of a bmw i6 swap?
Integral WG & BOV/CBV is so convenient for packaging. They do offer quite a bit of interesting stuff, but I'd have a hard time trusting their turbos themselves. That's actually why I only bought the compressor housing and compressor wheel from them, and used my original Mitubishi cartridge.
I've been toying with either a m52b28 or a volvo T6 (b6284t) swap. At the moment I'm leaning toward the volvo T6 just for the weird factor (and I have a friend who designed some mounts for that block to fit in my chassis). That said, it'll probably be a year or two until I do anything... getting too excited here.
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I've been busy. Putting a 5 cyl volvo engine into my 242.
Here's what's going on.
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Some awesome work you're doing!!
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don't know crap about volvo 5 cyl engines, but what kind of HP can it handle? based on what you are replacing you must be shooting for 400+?
Dan
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What's the hp gain? Nice job on the fabrication.
Thanks. Power will all depend on how much boost, from what turbo, I run. Stock against stock, the b230ft 4 cylinder I was running was rated at 160hp from the factory, and the b5234t 5 cylinder I'm using now was rated at 240hp from the factory... although all of that is more or less irrelevant at this point of modification. Some claim that the 4 cylinders can hold more power, but it really comes down to preference. I wanted a newer, modern, smooth running engine, without getting too heavy.
I'm not a fan of compromising driveability for an arbitrary number that makes my car internetcool, BUT I'd like to see 380-420whp with very little lag and rather wide powerband. I plan to sell my soul for a Garrett GTX3067r, which is going to be the secret to a good amount of power with great response.
Some awesome work you're doing!!
Thanks Dave. I really owe you a ride... we'll have to coordinate a day this summer when both of our cars are out and the sun is shining.
don't know crap about volvo 5 cyl engines, but what kind of HP can it handle? based on what you are replacing you must be shooting for 400+?
I wouldn't be worried about running this up to 500whp as it sits. The factory rods are the weak point, and I replaced those with forged h-beam units. The 5 cylinder is nice because it's such a nice tidy package. I chose it for a few reasons...
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Internals for Volvo engines are cheaper than BMW engines
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I got the majority of the parts needed for a massive discount because I know others who are 5 cyl afficionados
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buying 5 of everything is a lot cheaper than buying 6 of everything.
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this 5 cylinder is lighter, keeps the weight lower and farther back toward the center of the car.
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