E46 Things

[KaiserRolls]

m42b32 said:

I am 110% in for this

I’ll be joes -10% 

someones gotta even this positive shit show out

[patsbimmer1]

B C said:

I think our next outing should be at Qdoba on Saturday morning

Qars Qoffee and Qdoba 

Don't toy with my emotions Brian.

[B C]

We could meet at qdoba before the e30 picnic. Just sayin

[patsbimmer1]

B C said:

We could meet at qdoba before the e30 picnic. Just sayin

That might actually convince me to go to the picnic...

[B C]

Done

[B C]

Differential oil changed. Using the $90/qt BMW Unicorn Piss seems to be worthwhile as the M-clunk and diff whine is much less noticeable. If it were any other LSD, I’d be content with Redline, but even diffsonline.com recommends SAF-XJ +FM for the M-Variable LSD

I added a magnetic drain plug.

I replaced the fuel filter. The old one wasn’t horrible, here is a front (upper) vs. back (lower) comparison of the filter paper. I had no idea when it was last replaced but it’s cheap, easy, and never hurts to do.

While I was in there I checked and confirmed that the Clutch Delay Valve (CDV) is still in place and I will be removing that soon based on the overwhelmingly positive feedback from those who have removed it. If it sucks I can re-install it/its fully and easily reversible.

I also took a nice drive through the southern Kettle on Saturday with 2 passengers, AC on, and some music playing with the aux input I installed. Good times were had.

[B C]

The HDR setting on my phone turned itself up to 11

Replaced: Cabin filter, VANOS filter, AC belt

up next is a fresh oil change 

[SteelBlue]

Fuck, I need to get another E46 again.

Do you also not have fog lights?

Reason for Red Line motor oil over Mobil 1? I’m sure it’s not cheap.

[B C]

Fogs are not installed. I am still not sure which look I like best. Leaning towards no fogs.

The typically used 10w-60 oils are Castrol TWS, BMW/Shell TwinPower Turbo, LiquiMoly, Redline.

Bimmerworld recommends Redline and I can get it locally at Pegasus or Behling if I ever need to top off.

[Jdesign]

no fogs and run ducting to the brakes 

[B C]

1,100 miles in

Oil changed.

Rock collection tray cleaned.

Oil level sender o-ring replaced, though I think whatever small leak exists is coming from elsewhere.

[wasnt m3]

I am very happy to see you taking good care of this car. It's come quite a long way since it was a cheap fb marketplace find last year.

[patsbimmer1]

You are incapable of not taking things apart.  Nice job.

[GunMetalGrey]

patsbimmer1 said:

You are incapable of not taking things apart.  Nice job.

I felt this one.

Good work on fixing all of the little annoying stuff!

[Jdesign]

I never got a good look at this thing before you drove off on Saturday

[B C]

Thanks for moving the cone for me though

[wasnt m3]

Cough, amber tails, cough.

[B C]

I am having, what would seem to be the beginning stages of a failing fuel pump, leaking injectors, or a cam sensor on the fritz.

Occasionally the car does not fire up on first crank attempt. but always does on second attempt as if the mixture/fuel pressure is not right. I do wait for the fuel pump to finish priming before starting and that does not make a difference.
I will connect the laptop tonight and see if any codes are stored.

It does appear to be a common issue and I did find this posted hinting at summer blend fuel in cold temperatures. Plausible as it was chilly this morning.

someone said:

SI B 13 01 08
Fuel System & Control
January 2008
Technical Service
SUBJECT:
M3 S54 - Crank/No-Start on 1st Cold Start Attempt
MODEL:
E46 (M3) with S54
SITUATION

The customer may complain that during the first cold start, or after the vehicle has been parked for more then 6 hours, the engine would crank but not start on the first attempt. The engine will start immediately during the second cranking attempt without any running issues. The problem is currently present and reproducible in the workshop.

No faults are stored in the DME control module. Testing of the fuel pressure, volume and bleed-down pressure do not detect any problems with the fuel delivery system. Also, further diagnosis of the engine electrical components (scope patterns of injectors, ignition coils, crankshaft and camshaft sensors, etc.) shows that all the systems work as designed.

CAUSE

Gasoline fuel blends with low volatility (Reid Vapor Pressure or RVP too low for winter temperatures).

Fuel volatility is defined by ASTM standards and regulated by federal and state legislation. Volatility in different geographical areas is affected by many factors, including state regulations (for example, oxygenated fuel requirements), local altitude, local temperature ranges, refinery capacity, and distribution logistics. Volatility is not related to gasoline octane rating (AKI).

Shifts in fuel volatility occur during seasonal fuel changeover periods. Lower volatility summer fuel (typical range 6 - 10 psi RVP) is changed to higher volatility winter fuel (9 - 14 psi) in the fall, and then back again in the spring.

A cold start situation may occur if a non-homogenous summer fuel blend is introduced into the fuel distribution system and thus the vehicle fuel tanks, when winter fuel is needed.

CORRECTION

Do not replace any components.

Advise the customer to refill the vehicle with a brand name TOP TIER detergent gasoline with a minimum octane rating of AKI 91.

[jc43089]

B C said:

I am having, what would seem to be the beginning stages of a failing fuel pump, leaking injectors, or a cam sensor on the fritz.

Occasionally the car does not fire up on first crank attempt. but always does on second attempt as if the mixture/fuel pressure is not right. I do wait for the fuel pump to finish priming before starting and that does not make a difference.
I will connect the laptop tonight and see if any codes are stored.

It does appear to be a common issue and I did find this posted hinting at summer blend fuel in cold temperatures. Plausible as it was chilly this morning.

Probably the head gasket.

[B C]

I will order 2 new head gaskets just in case the first one is defective