Chris’ e34 extravaganza

SteelBlue

Love it. Sell me those throwing stars.

patsbimmer1

ChrisO said:

I can do a leak down and compression test.

I don't know if I read that correctly in context but how can you do a leak down or compression test if you can't crank the engine? At this point the only option I see is to disassemble the engine, clean it, reassemble and hope it starts. 10 years worth of oil not running will absorb moisture over time so milky color doesn't surprise me. There's not an effective way to clean that sludge without a running car and I wouldn't try to start the car seeing what's in that engine right now. Not an easy task but that would be the right way to do it.

straight6pwr

the oil mixed with condensation, acidic goo, etc etc is obviously no good, but draining it the best you can and filling with fresh oil (maybe with some cleaner with it, like seafoam) and running the engine for a little while to clean the rest shouldn't hurt. maybe putting some oil directly into the cylinders days prior would be helpful. then just change the oil again with fresh stuff. i'd think disassembling the engine would cause more problems than it would help.

ChrisO

patsbimmer1 said:

I don't know if I read that correctly in context but how can you do a leak down or compression test if you can't crank the engine? At this point the only option I see is to disassemble the engine, clean it, reassemble and hope it starts. 10 years worth of oil not running will absorb moisture over time so milky color doesn't surprise me. There's not an effective way to clean that sludge without a running car and I wouldn't try to start the car seeing what's in that engine right now. Not an easy task but that would be the right way to do it.

Oh my bad, the car cranks, has spark, but no fuel. Of course the crank/pulse sensor wire is sheared in half. I was planning on wiring it up on Saturday and trying to figure out the no fuel issue. But really just the consistency of the sludge in the head is what concerns me and I was wondering if it could be possible from just moisture. I can’t make any assumptions based off coolant consumption/oil in the coolant/air in the coolant because it has none nor could I put some in it and bleed it as it won’t start.

I agree tho, it seems wrong to try and start it as it sits.

patsbimmer1

Yes, moisture over the course of ten years will cause that.

ChrisO

Here’s just a few more pics of the car and some interesting things

PO gave me a bucket of stuff from the car and these diagnostic tools were in it, along with a custom ground down spark plug socket (s38’s have very narrow spark plug holes)

also in the bucket was a 12v adapter that plugs into where the glovebox flashlight goes

Car has all the keys it came with from the factory, I think. Also has full documentation from the dealer

Break in period sticker from when the car was new, assuming this is pretty damn rare to see

full size m system spare and a almost complete tool kit

Few interior shots

patsbimmer1

That's very cool!

B C

Yes!

I love that they even suggest the idea of running at max speed for a long duration in the break in label.

amazing to see keyless entry from that vintage as well.

id squirt some oil/atf down the cylinders and look into priming the oil pump before firing it up.

Fun project

Rekpoint

Pretty sick to have already owned 2 m3s and an m5 at your stage in life

straight6pwr

i don't mean to rain on the P.O.'s parade, but there's a perfectly good spark plug tool in that tool kit...yet there he was, grinding and grinding and grinding

ChrisO

straight6pwr said:

i don't mean to rain on the P.O.'s parade, but there's a perfectly good spark plug tool in that tool kit...yet there he was, grinding and grinding and grinding

Wow I didn't even notice that lmao, sweet

SteelBlue

Thanks Chris, very cool!

GunMetalGrey

This thing is cool.
Please don't disassemble it and put parts on a 540!

Rekpoint

GunMetalGrey said:

This thing is cool.
Please don't disassemble it and put parts on a 540!

I vote m60 swap it

Jdesign

That documentation alone would be enough for me to try and save it.

If I were you, I would fill that motor with marvel or a detergent and let it sit a day or two. Then I would drop the pan and remove the VC. Thoroughly clean it and pour new oil through the head and allow it to flow through the motor until its clean and no longer gross. Rotate the oil pump and motor by hand till it seems to spin free and easy. Then reassemble and do the basics. Motors are pretty durable, its just contaminants and lack of lubrication that usually cause failures.

Also: http://www.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?t=123682

GunMetalGrey

Jdesign said:

If I were you

I would pull the engine, just because it appears to be my favorite activity.
Maybe even put it in a lifted E30.
Who knows.

But for real. This thing is cool and uncommon.

I know a mix of ATF and Seafoam with the oil is good for clearing stuff out (only let it run for a bit).

straight6pwr

Jdesign said:

Also: http://www.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?t=123682

great link!

YoungCR

All good suggestions. I’d over prepare for the first start being a high tolerance motor. If you want to pull the tank, they are fairly simple on e34’s, just two tank straps to undo. The front strap bolts can be tricky if things are rusty though.

Really cool that this car still has its dealer tags on the keys. The keyless entry system is easy to reprogram too if everything is working.

jc43089

It sounds as though you have already cranked it, did the oil pressure light turn off? If not I typically remove the spark plugs before cranking a dormant engine so that there is no load on the bearings. Also adding a squirt of oil to the cylinders wouldn't hurt. A bore scope would be handy to look in the cylinders for rust but if you already cranked it over then you already are past that.

jc43089

https://gearpatrol.com/2019/03/14/the-forgotten-generation-of-bmw-m5-is-the-most-affordable-and-the-one-you-want/?utm_content=87174951&utm_medium=social&utm_source=facebook&hss_channel=fbp-179943528721059

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Chris’ e34 extravaganza