Chris’ e34 extravaganza
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SO MUCH YES!! I assume you got a killer deal on it since its been sitting for so long and needs so much work.
CONGRATS!!
https://www.instagram.com/_jdesigner_/ http://nevertoolow.tumblr.com/
🥳SOLD BMW E24 633CSI - BMW M30B32 🧪SOLD HCH ES9 - 1.3 LDA
👽BMW E30 325IC - Toyota 1JZ-GTE ⏰ HONDA EF9 CIVIC SI - JDM B18C5
☠️BMW E36 318i - Ford 5.0 FE302 🚴♂️ GT-Labomba - 26x2.75 Freeride
🤹♀️SOLD BMW E36/7 Z3 - BMW M54B25 🧓SOLD BMW E10 2002 - BMW M10M05 -
SO MUCH YES!! I assume you got a killer deal on it since its been sitting for so long and needs so much work.
CONGRATS!!
I feel pretty good about it, my expenses are just over what you had him at. I just really wanted the full aero and wheels, no matter what direction this goes I'm holding on to them!
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I feel pretty good about it, my expenses are just over what you had him at. I just really wanted the full aero and wheels, no matter what direction this goes I'm holding on to them!
Need pics of systems on the m3
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very very cool. i do hope you can get it running. and if you DD it, I hope you have deep pockets!
Dan
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^^ Same. They are fairly straight forward, and I have had my hands on just about every part of an S38 minus the bottom end internals.
Fun Fact: the S38's have a few variables in the castings, components, and other features from Model to model, year to year. Not everything will bolt from one S38 to another. Example: S38B36 may have different engine mount tabs vs. S38B38. (kind of typical for BMW though)
https://www.instagram.com/_jdesigner_/ http://nevertoolow.tumblr.com/
🥳SOLD BMW E24 633CSI - BMW M30B32 🧪SOLD HCH ES9 - 1.3 LDA
👽BMW E30 325IC - Toyota 1JZ-GTE ⏰ HONDA EF9 CIVIC SI - JDM B18C5
☠️BMW E36 318i - Ford 5.0 FE302 🚴♂️ GT-Labomba - 26x2.75 Freeride
🤹♀️SOLD BMW E36/7 Z3 - BMW M54B25 🧓SOLD BMW E10 2002 - BMW M10M05 -
Real promising start here, took me 3 seconds to see the crank position sensor wires are cut clean in half, not sure how or why that happened. Also I've noticed inside of the oil cap, the head has a nice creamy sludge pooled at the bottom off the head bellow the cams in those pockets. It's pretty thick gunk... I know moisture can cause stuff like this but it's pretty thick. PO told me he changed the oil last year when he tried to get it to run, and the oil in the pan looks perfect (although very thick). One observation I made is the oil is way overfilled. I wonder if the motor was filled with sludge that wouldn't drain completely when he added 8 quarts of fresh oil?
Under no circumstances does it seem normal to me, but I might be mistaken? the car did sit with the same oil in it for 10 years... I can't run most of the blown headgasket tests thanks to the car being a no start, and the cooling system being completely dry/ probably not holding pressure due to old hoses. I can do a leak down and compression test. Opinions? When I have more time I'm going to pull the valve cover gasket to better get a look at the inside of the head.
also I discovered some subs and a amp under all the garbage in the trunk
Looks like it has some kind of custom box for e34's, if anyone wants it all for super cheap let me know haha
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I can do a leak down and compression test.
I don't know if I read that correctly in context but how can you do a leak down or compression test if you can't crank the engine? At this point the only option I see is to disassemble the engine, clean it, reassemble and hope it starts. 10 years worth of oil not running will absorb moisture over time so milky color doesn't surprise me. There's not an effective way to clean that sludge without a running car and I wouldn't try to start the car seeing what's in that engine right now. Not an easy task but that would be the right way to do it.
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the oil mixed with condensation, acidic goo, etc etc is obviously no good, but draining it the best you can and filling with fresh oil (maybe with some cleaner with it, like seafoam) and running the engine for a little while to clean the rest shouldn't hurt. maybe putting some oil directly into the cylinders days prior would be helpful. then just change the oil again with fresh stuff. i'd think disassembling the engine would cause more problems than it would help.
Dan
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I don't know if I read that correctly in context but how can you do a leak down or compression test if you can't crank the engine? At this point the only option I see is to disassemble the engine, clean it, reassemble and hope it starts. 10 years worth of oil not running will absorb moisture over time so milky color doesn't surprise me. There's not an effective way to clean that sludge without a running car and I wouldn't try to start the car seeing what's in that engine right now. Not an easy task but that would be the right way to do it.
Oh my bad, the car cranks, has spark, but no fuel. Of course the crank/pulse sensor wire is sheared in half. I was planning on wiring it up on Saturday and trying to figure out the no fuel issue. But really just the consistency of the sludge in the head is what concerns me and I was wondering if it could be possible from just moisture. I can’t make any assumptions based off coolant consumption/oil in the coolant/air in the coolant because it has none nor could I put some in it and bleed it as it won’t start.
I agree tho, it seems wrong to try and start it as it sits.
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Yes, moisture over the course of ten years will cause that.
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Here’s just a few more pics of the car and some interesting things
PO gave me a bucket of stuff from the car and these diagnostic tools were in it, along with a custom ground down spark plug socket (s38’s have very narrow spark plug holes)
also in the bucket was a 12v adapter that plugs into where the glovebox flashlight goes
Car has all the keys it came with from the factory, I think. Also has full documentation from the dealer
Break in period sticker from when the car was new, assuming this is pretty damn rare to see
full size m system spare and a almost complete tool kit
Few interior shots
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That's very cool!
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Yes!
I love that they even suggest the idea of running at max speed for a long duration in the break in label.
amazing to see keyless entry from that vintage as well.
id squirt some oil/atf down the cylinders and look into priming the oil pump before firing it up.
Fun project
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i don't mean to rain on the P.O.'s parade, but there's a perfectly good spark plug tool in that tool kit...yet there he was, grinding and grinding and grinding
Dan
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i don't mean to rain on the P.O.'s parade, but there's a perfectly good spark plug tool in that tool kit...yet there he was, grinding and grinding and grinding
Wow I didn't even notice that lmao, sweet
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