Non-BMW Stuff on a BMW Forum
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Went for a drive with Tom tonight and praise sweet baby jesus did I get lucky. Hit a deer. And the worse of the damage was only this. A trim clip broke on the side trim and a small dent on the rear wheel arch which should easily pop out.
It's hard to believe this happened so long ago already. But part of the body work process has been cleaning this up and I am very happy with the results so far. I've also removed the front bumper skin and gooped up the backside of that with some plastic weld stuff things where it had cracked from the deer.
There was also a decent dent on the rear fender where the deer hit.
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Got a terribly unpleasant surprise when sanding the hood. It had a small rust bubble on it that I didn't think much of when I picked it up because the rest of the hood was in very good shape. Started sanding it at the front corner and noticed some filler. Worked my way up and kept finding more and more of it.
The extent of the filler.
Surprise dent in the front corner.
This is where the rust bubble was.
See how the hood has degraded here.
Unfortunately my hood is in worse shape. Lots of large dents and a couple "creases" that I wouldn't be able to fix. Plus the corner of my hood is very messed up from the deer. Didn't have any other choice at this point but to fill it back in and smooth it out. In the end it will be fine for now. I think I will eventually try to find a new hood that is rust free.
And the car is mostly blocked. I just have to do the bumpers and the roof. I have a gallon of Eastwood's Contour Polyester Primer which has a high build quality. Their website refers to it as liquid body filler. But it's good for spraying on bare metal, filler, existing finishes, etc. And the base coat can go directly on to this primer. It was important for me to do this in as few of steps as possible.
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Use self etching primer for any bare metal. Then sand and shoot the primer you have over it.
I've already had a lengthy conversation with Eastwood about their primers and they said their Contour is a DTM primer and wouldn't require anything else.
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Step one done (almost- need a little more). I learned a lot of do’s and don’ts. What I can do differently as far as setup goes, preparation, etc. But for my first time I’m pleased. The plastic around the walls was critical. This stuff gets everywhere and it smells. But the plastic protected things from both the particles and the smells.
Using the HVLP gun was very pleasant. Cleaning it was also much easier than I anticipated it being. My compressor setup did amazing. I think it only kicked in three or four times while painting. This gun uses very little air - which is why I chose it.
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The neighbors see you with a painters suit, respirator; and hanging plastic sheeting and probably think its some elaborate self-quarantine
This is a huge undertaking, im sure just like everything else that you will see any small mistakes you make much more than others will. Cant wait to check it out!
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if you get a good seal and create any vacuum, that plastic is going to want to fly inward into the center of the room. this was the hardest part when i built a mini booth. ideally you want nuetral pressure, but if you cant accomplish that, create positive pressure. biggest fans forcing in fresh air, smaller out. the plastic still may fly around, but away from the car is better.
i threw some cheap air furnace filters over the box fans to prevent large debris from flying into the room.
Dan
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Did that help to calm eliminate the dust? My biggest issue was the amount of dust created from paint drying in the air and landing on stuff. This worries me most when I do the color coat. The primer I can sand smooth.
it calmed the 'cloud' that would build up, for sure, but did not completely eliminate the dust. i didnt have dust settling on my work piece, as far as I could tell. but you have a much larger volume of air to move and a larger work piece. (i was in a 10x12 room)
Dan
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it calmed the 'cloud' that would build up, for sure, but did not completely eliminate the dust. i didnt have dust settling on my work piece, as far as I could tell. but you have a much larger volume of air to move and a larger work piece. (i was in a 10x12 room)
That’s good to know. I think I need to be careful with a positive setup because I am also doing this in winter and need the garage warm for the paint. Having to fans blowing in cold air might not be ideal.
When I crack the overhead door open to place the fans under it there is an opening at the top of the door created, so I wonder if I have more fans blowing out than in if it that would be enough to not truly create negative pressure where all my plastic would fly off the walls, but enough to pull the paint cloud out of the garage.
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That’s good to know. I think I need to be careful with a positive setup because I am also doing this in winter and need the garage warm for the paint. Having to fans blowing in cold air might not be ideal.
When I crack the overhead door open to place the fans under it there is an opening at the top of the door created, so I wonder if I have more fans blowing out than in if it that would be enough to not truly create negative pressure where all my plastic would fly off the walls, but enough to pull the paint cloud out of the garage.
definitely may take some dampening of the system to get it just right. cardboard over portions of box fans to reduce flow. you may have to enjoy a nice cigar to test the system.
temperature wise, you might be SOL. whether you pressurize to force air in or vacuum to force air out, you are still attempting to displace the same air from inside, which has to be displaced by the cold air outside.
Dan
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definitely may take some dampening of the system to get it just right. cardboard over portions of box fans to reduce flow. you may have to enjoy a nice cigar to test the system.
temperature wise, you might be SOL. whether you pressurize to force air in or vacuum to force air out, you are still attempting to displace the same air from inside, which has to be displaced by the cold air outside.
Agreed. Neither situation is ideal in Wisconsin this time of year.
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Are you keeping the car the same color as before? You probably already mentioned it but I suck at reading
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Are you keeping the car the same color as before? You probably already mentioned it but I suck at reading
Yes-ish. I'm painting it Meteor Gray Metallic from Eastwood. I felt it was their closest match to Delphin. To get the Delphin color matched paint from Automotive Touchup would have been about $400/gallon. For it being my first time I didn't want to learn how to paint a car with $400 paint.
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A refined medium grey with cool undertones
LOLOLOLOL. sounds like they are going to dye your hair
Dan
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LOLOLOLOL. sounds like they are going to dye your hair
Some say a little salt and pepper is distinguishing.
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Yes-ish. I'm painting it Meteor Gray Metallic from Eastwood. I felt it was their closest match to Delphin. To get the Delphin color matched paint from Automotive Touchup would have been about $400/gallon. For it being my first time I didn't want to learn how to paint a car with $400 paint.
Holy crap. I get my paint mixed by my twin brother at Orileys. I get it at cost for 100-150 a gallon.
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Holy crap. I get my paint mixed by my twin brother at Orileys. I get it at cost for 100-150 a gallon.
The paint from Eastwood is $122 for color and activator. Automotive Touchup is slightly more:
I have one gallon of the Eastwood stuff, but will be ordering a second gallon to have just in case. So two gallons from Eastwood will still be $125 cheaper than one gallon of Delphin.
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