Non-BMW Stuff on a BMW Forum
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chrome plated? That looks like it was spray painted with nail polish in a 409 bottle by a blind person.
Dan
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Nice! How about building a plexiglass housing, with led light ropes to show it off? Not as much bling as your neckwear idea but easier on the wardrobe.
It does look sweet though. I kind of feel the same way about the Stromung stainless catback on my 318is. It's the cleanest thing on car and you can't really see in its glory unless you crawl underneath the car. Plus side though is you can hear it.
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Got the new bearing in and the hub in on the DS and all it’s all tight. New rear brakes and pads and the new brake lines mocked up where they should be going. I ordered a replacement hose from Chase Bays and need that before I tighten down the lines to make sure there is enough slack to go this route.
I have grommets to go in the hole where the factory brake line went through and that’s where this new line will go also
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is that a one piece brake line from the body to the caliper? (removed the hardline from the trailing arms?)
Dan
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Finally back at it for a little bit after Christmas. The AC evaporator is back in and it’s really cool to see how the interior is going to come back together with the console set in.
Got these for Christmas from my parents and my wife got me the Chase Bays front brake lines. As of December 18th they were still filling orders from Black Friday, so I’m guessing it will be a while before I get those and my replacement section of rear line.
I’ll get an adapter for the pressure gauge at the stock location, tap one of the plugs on the thermostat for the water temp, and then tap the drain plug for the oil temp.
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Alright, I have three questions I’m hoping you guys can give me some advice.
- I got the new vent line cover. But the end towards the front of the car would usually sit inside the pipe coming from the car. I don’t have that anymore so there’s nothing securing it. Any ideas how to do this? I’m thinking some type of strap across it?
- My AC lines have these Schroeder valves for servicing. I’m seeing replacement Schroeder valves on FCP and whatnot but these are not replaceable. Are there just various types of lines and mine do not need new valves?
The replacement valve. Unless this is the one that goes on the compressor end of the suction line?
- I removed this trim piece and I’m not sure where it goes back.
- I got the new vent line cover. But the end towards the front of the car would usually sit inside the pipe coming from the car. I don’t have that anymore so there’s nothing securing it. Any ideas how to do this? I’m thinking some type of strap across it?
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- i think that trim piece goes inside the glovebox, on the left side. the orientation is upside down in the photo.
Dan
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- i think that trim piece goes inside the glovebox, on the left side. the orientation is upside down in the photo.
I realized the trim is for the hood release area.
I got No. 1 figured out and I need some r-12 to r-134 adapter valves for the lines.
But the AC saga has hit a wall. The large suction hose I got did not fit my compressor. All I can deduce is that it is from a different variation of compressor and since there are a million variations of compressors and systems, it's hard to tell which system it is from. On top of that, I discovered there are a hand full of Bosch/Behr compressors built that are not compatible with R134a. Turns out the two compressors I have are both Bosch/Behr and both on that small list. I guess the seals in it allow for the smaller molecules of the R134 to pass through them. Now I also need to determine if I find a different compressor, have this one rebuilt, buy a rebuilt one, etc.
The guy I got this suction hose from said he still has the compressor from the car that the hose came off of. Going to hope it's not a Bosch unit and will work with my setup.
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I realized the trim is for the hood release area.
ahh yes. it has that opening in it perfectly sized to fit a pair of vise grips.
Dan
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ahh yes. it has that opening in it perfectly sized to fit a pair of vise grips.
lol
Well, I think I got the AC hose/compressor issue sorted. After looking at as many pictures of the different compressors on and off cars, I beleive the hose I got is for a Denso compressor - which has a different configuration for the two hoses. I ordered what I hope is the correct hose for the Bosch/Behr compressor.
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Having AC makes me jealous. I really want to build a coolshirt system for the hot autox/lapping days
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Having AC makes me jealous. I really want to build a coolshirt system for the hot autox/lapping days
Wait to be jealous when it's completely working. lol.
I have to admit I am really excited to see all of these improvements coming together and the car more closely fitting the vision I had for it.
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Having AC makes me jealous. I really want to build a coolshirt system for the hot autox/lapping days
DIY: I use a $40 Donjoy Iceman Cold therapy unit (cooler and built in pump) bought used off Craigslist in the race car. Cut off the electrical plug end, connect to toggle switch wired to my old cigarette lighter wiring. The Donjoy hose fittings plug right into the hoses of a regular Coolshirt. Fabbed a bracket and strap setup bolted to the passenger floor for the cooler. Total "system" out the door for less than $200 (biggest price is the shirt). Lasts for about 30-40 minutes on a 80-90 degree day due to the small size of the cooler. Plenty for sprint races, lapping, autox. Esp when you're stuck in grid, baking in a three-layer race suit while they clean up the mess some idiot made in the prior session.
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DIY: I use a $40 Donjoy Iceman Cold therapy unit (cooler and built in pump) bought used off Craigslist in the race car. Cut off the electrical plug end, connect to toggle switch wired to my old cigarette lighter wiring. The Donjoy hose fittings plug right into the hoses of a regular Coolshirt. Fabbed a bracket and strap setup bolted to the passenger floor for the cooler. Total "system" out the door for less than $200 (biggest price is the shirt). Lasts for about 30-40 minutes on a 80-90 degree day due to the small size of the cooler. Plenty for sprint races, lapping, autox. Esp when you're stuck in grid, baking in a three-layer race suit while they clean up the mess some idiot made in the prior session.
I have all of the links saved, just waiting for it to get hot out so I can justify it to myself haha
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Got the gauges mocked up. Started the harnesses for them last night so I can get them in. I need gauges in to be able to put the interior back together. I’m not super thrilled with the fit. But it’s the only gauge bracket that doesn’t either eliminate the storage cubby, middle vents, or something on the dash. I’m going to run some high density foam along the lip under where the gauge bracket sits to conceal that gap.
I'm using relays that will be mounted behind the dash to control the switched power to the gauges and the switched power to the lights. I'll use the radio swicthed 12v for the trigger on the gauge relay and then a headlight wire for the trigger on the gauge light relay. Pulled power directly from the junction block in the engine bay.
With that said, anyone have a good place to tap a headlight wire of some type for the light relay?
Found this wiring diagram for the lights. Would I be correct in that the yellow/green wire from the switch would be the switched 12v wire going to the lights that I could tap into for the switch on the relay?
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With that said, anyone have a good place to tap a headlight wire of some type for the light relay?
if you're already at the back of the radio for the switched power, use the wire there for the switched dashboard lights. it is controlled by the headlight switch.
i looked up the 89 325i in the ETM, and it suggests a white wire will be the "Lights on input" wire. Some e30s differ based on radio type, etc, but this should be easy to verify.
tracing that wire to the "Light switch details" it shows that it is controlled by the light switch and gets power in the "Park" lights position and "Head(lights)" lights position.
Dan
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