Non-BMW Stuff on a BMW Forum
-
I looked into this and I think I’ll add an oil pressure gauge.
Now I need to decide if I should just go with an oil pressure gauge and do a single gauge pod in the vent or go with three gauges and do the ash tray gauge mount. Probably oil pressure, oil temp, and something else. But that seems like overkill in a stock car.
Overkill? Is that a thing? Anyway, coolant temp is always nice, the stock gauge is all but useless with the large buffered spot in the middle. If you add an oil pressure gauge use a T so you keep the idiot light. A gauge is not eye catching enough unless it has some kind of programmable limit with a warning light. Also depending on the sending unit size/weight I usually remote mount them so the large sending unit isn't hanging from a vibrating engine by a 1/8npt nipple.
-
So far my favorite option for the oil temp and pressure is the oil filter sandwich plate. Seems to give the cleanest install. Bimmerworlds sells a nice adapter for the oil pressure sensor but at $110, I'd rather not. I can use one of the spare ports on the thermostat for water temp.
-
So far my favorite option for the oil temp and pressure is the oil filter sandwich plate. Seems to give the cleanest install. Bimmerworlds sells a nice adapter for the oil pressure sensor but at $110, I'd rather not. I can use one of the spare ports on the thermostat for water temp.
I’m not too sure about the m20 stock oil psi sender location, but if it’s m12x1.5 these should work(?)
https://rallyroad.net/products/oil-gauge-distribution-block
TRM made a super simple one that was like $24 but it’s on back order
there’s a similar one (to the trm) on fleabay for like $30 -looks like you lose the stock sensor though so probably not ideal
bimmerheads has one for the m20 for like $35 but it’s also out of stock...
i used the VDO vision gauges in my e30s. They are a fairly close match to the cluster if you’re after some period correctness. Just make sure when/if you buy senders you match the sweep of the gauge (most of the visions are a 90° sweep) and the overall range (0-250°F or whatever)
https://www.vdo-gauges.com/instruments-displays-and-clusters/by-series/vision-black.html
Decently priced as well. I run water temp/oil temp/oil psi where the radio used to be. There’s a lot of options for mounting gauges in these cars, but you usually give something up - a vent, center console pocket thing, radio, obc, etc.
-
Working on removing the rear subframe to do TAB and subframe bushings. It’s read to come out except for the e-brake cables. Looks like the rubber tube from the car to the hub is all part of the cable assembly. And from reading other threads they can be a real bitch to remove. Anyone have any tips or tricks to remove these from the car or hub before I just cut them in half and buy new cable assemblies?
-
just cut them in half and buy new cable assemblies
No, you got the right idea.
-
No, you got the right idea.
That's the green light I needed.
I think they are similar to e36 cables. If you spray them with some penetrating oil you can wiggle them out by tapping or prying one side then the other. It is just a tapered fit that wedges tight. It depends how nasty everything is though.
They do appear to be pressure fitted into the frame and the hub, but they are very nasty. Since I will have the rear subframe out, I might as well replace the e-brake parts.
-
if the cables housing are badly stuck at the hub, they are probably stuck at the body, too, so be ready for that.
if you're dropping the subframe, its a definitely good "while youre in there" item, despite the hassle.
Dan
-
if the cables housing are badly stuck at the hub, they are probably stuck at the body, too, so be ready for that.
if you're dropping the subframe, its a definitely good "while youre in there" item, despite the hassle.
I figured as much. I knew it wasn't going to be as easy as "disconnect the ebrake cables from the body of the car" like the write-ups said.
Going to do poly trailing arm and subframe bushings and then replace the rear brake lines with the Chase Bays front to rear brake line kit. Certain parts of the brake line and the junction block are looking super crusty.
-
I figured as much. I knew it wasn't going to be as easy as "disconnect the ebrake cables from the body of the car" like the write-ups said.
pb blaster, heating, prying, cursing, etc etc. i'd go spray em right now if you can.
this writeup describes and has good pictures of what youll run into. there is a metal ferule sleeved into a metal pipe that is part of the chassis and rust likes to hold them together.
Dan
-
Fyi, the best rust penetrant that I have found is called mouse milk. It's used in the aviation industry. Amazing stuff.
It better be good, now to find a mouse...
-
-
"You can milk anything with nipples"
I have nipples. Can you milk me?
Both bushing inserts are seized to the body. The DS bushing fell apart after I removed the bolt and the subframe and the outside of the bushing broke loose but the insert and other half of the bushing is stuck. The PS bushing is holding together and not letting me lower the subframe. I have about an inch of exposed bushing insert that I'm going to cut with a sawzall. And then I'll start going through the list of tricks to get the inserts free from the car. Wasted a ton of time last night trying to get the PS subframe to let go and didn't have along enough sawzall blade to get it in there. Super annoyed.
-
I’ve only had to do one side and it sucks. We ended up drilling and chiseling it out, lag bolt trick didn’t work.
I read that it was better to thread it for a 5/8" bolt and then pound it out. I will probably thread both of them and then fill the holes with my PP blaster....I mean PB Blaster. Hoping it works its way between the frame of the car and the sides of the bushing insert.
-
i'm also rebuilding the e30s rear end this winter. rear wheel bearings are really not any easier off the car, but it one less step to get the axles out if youre pulling the diff apart from the subframe anyways. if you have an impact gun the axle nuts will come off easy, if not, it may be hard to break them loose now that everything is off the car.
what bushings are you going with?
Dan
-
I thought about that when I was typing that before that it might be difficult to get the axle nuts off. I do have an impact, not sure it will be enough though. Either way, I’ll probably do them.
I’m going to use the revshift street version poly bushings. That’s the diff bushing I used and didn’t notice any additional vibration from it. And they seem to have the best prices for poly bushings. Unless there’s another company with them cheaper?
-
I thought about that when I was typing that before that it might be difficult to get the axle nuts off. I do have an impact, not sure it will be enough though. Either way, I’ll probably do them.
I’m going to use the revshift street version poly bushings. That’s the diff bushing I used and didn’t notice any additional vibration from it. And they seem to have the best prices for poly bushings. Unless there’s another company with them cheaper?
yes, the the revshift stuff is nice. i have used their engine mounts in the e30 and e34 and the quality is good. their prices seem really competitive, too.
i'd recommend the diff stud kit as well. and the riser style subframe bushings/spacer kit if you have issues with excess camber. or maybe the eccentric TA bushings if you have bad inner rear tire wear. #scopecreep
Dan
Hello! It looks like you're interested in this conversation, but you don't have an account yet.
Getting fed up of having to scroll through the same posts each visit? When you register for an account, you'll always come back to exactly where you were before, and choose to be notified of new replies (either via email, or push notification). You'll also be able to save bookmarks and upvote posts to show your appreciation to other community members.
With your input, this post could be even better 💗
Register Login