Non-BMW Stuff on a BMW Forum
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if the cables housing are badly stuck at the hub, they are probably stuck at the body, too, so be ready for that.
if you're dropping the subframe, its a definitely good "while youre in there" item, despite the hassle.
Dan
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if the cables housing are badly stuck at the hub, they are probably stuck at the body, too, so be ready for that.
if you're dropping the subframe, its a definitely good "while youre in there" item, despite the hassle.
I figured as much. I knew it wasn't going to be as easy as "disconnect the ebrake cables from the body of the car" like the write-ups said.
Going to do poly trailing arm and subframe bushings and then replace the rear brake lines with the Chase Bays front to rear brake line kit. Certain parts of the brake line and the junction block are looking super crusty.
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I figured as much. I knew it wasn't going to be as easy as "disconnect the ebrake cables from the body of the car" like the write-ups said.
pb blaster, heating, prying, cursing, etc etc. i'd go spray em right now if you can.
this writeup describes and has good pictures of what youll run into. there is a metal ferule sleeved into a metal pipe that is part of the chassis and rust likes to hold them together.
Dan
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Fyi, the best rust penetrant that I have found is called mouse milk. It's used in the aviation industry. Amazing stuff.
It better be good, now to find a mouse...
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"You can milk anything with nipples"
I have nipples. Can you milk me?
Both bushing inserts are seized to the body. The DS bushing fell apart after I removed the bolt and the subframe and the outside of the bushing broke loose but the insert and other half of the bushing is stuck. The PS bushing is holding together and not letting me lower the subframe. I have about an inch of exposed bushing insert that I'm going to cut with a sawzall. And then I'll start going through the list of tricks to get the inserts free from the car. Wasted a ton of time last night trying to get the PS subframe to let go and didn't have along enough sawzall blade to get it in there. Super annoyed.
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I’ve only had to do one side and it sucks. We ended up drilling and chiseling it out, lag bolt trick didn’t work.
I read that it was better to thread it for a 5/8" bolt and then pound it out. I will probably thread both of them and then fill the holes with my PP blaster....I mean PB Blaster. Hoping it works its way between the frame of the car and the sides of the bushing insert.
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i'm also rebuilding the e30s rear end this winter. rear wheel bearings are really not any easier off the car, but it one less step to get the axles out if youre pulling the diff apart from the subframe anyways. if you have an impact gun the axle nuts will come off easy, if not, it may be hard to break them loose now that everything is off the car.
what bushings are you going with?
Dan
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I thought about that when I was typing that before that it might be difficult to get the axle nuts off. I do have an impact, not sure it will be enough though. Either way, I’ll probably do them.
I’m going to use the revshift street version poly bushings. That’s the diff bushing I used and didn’t notice any additional vibration from it. And they seem to have the best prices for poly bushings. Unless there’s another company with them cheaper?
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I thought about that when I was typing that before that it might be difficult to get the axle nuts off. I do have an impact, not sure it will be enough though. Either way, I’ll probably do them.
I’m going to use the revshift street version poly bushings. That’s the diff bushing I used and didn’t notice any additional vibration from it. And they seem to have the best prices for poly bushings. Unless there’s another company with them cheaper?
yes, the the revshift stuff is nice. i have used their engine mounts in the e30 and e34 and the quality is good. their prices seem really competitive, too.
i'd recommend the diff stud kit as well. and the riser style subframe bushings/spacer kit if you have issues with excess camber. or maybe the eccentric TA bushings if you have bad inner rear tire wear. #scopecreep
Dan
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pb blaster, heating, prying, cursing, etc etc. i'd go spray em right now if you can.
this writeup describes and has good pictures of what youll run into. there is a metal ferule sleeved into a metal pipe that is part of the chassis and rust likes to hold them together.
Didn't read through this link before, but that is excellent. Thank you for sharing. I do have a good amount of camber in the rear. I was debating the riser kit, but I don't hate the look of the camber. Maybe? When I rotated tires, the wear was pretty even. I take some preventative maintenance measures to ensure my tires are wearing evenly in the rear through the practice of rubber burning.
Bought the tools needed to do the rear wheel bearings. All good things to have in the stash of special tools anyways.
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All good things to have in the stash of special tools anyways.
Honestly, this is mainly how I grow my tool collection
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Honestly, this is mainly how I grow my tool collection
Saved us with that O2 sensor socket today
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Anyone have any good recommendations for a brush on paint for the subframe besides por15?
I use KBS Coatings and I LOVE IT.
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I use KBS Coatings and I LOVE IT.
Where do you pick that up?
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Where do you pick that up?
Napa has it locally
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