Non-BMW Stuff on a BMW Forum
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#wagonlife
those tie-down rails are awesome. thats volvo right?
Dan
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#wagonlife
those tie-down rails are awesome. thats volvo right?
They really are. I use them pretty regularly. And yes, ‘08 Volvo XC70.
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How about some e30 content?
All cleaned up for Road America tomorrow.
Great weather for being at the track. One of the few events I didn’t make it to this year. Hopefully you got to see the F1 cars run. Judd V10s
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It was a lot of fun and my girls enjoyed it which is always awesome.
Tonight I got the air compressor hooked up. Not super thrilled with the overall look of it but it will be fine until I redo the garage next year.
I still need to do some hose management, so please ignore the crazy hoses.
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Been driving the car to work once in a while and I've noticed that the oil pressure light stays on for a couple seconds on cold starts. I'm going to get a new oil pressure sensor, but I'm just curious what people's thoughts are? It didn't always do this. I remember it turning of instantly - I think even with this engine when I first got it back in.
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Been driving the car to work once in a while and I've noticed that the oil pressure light stays on for a couple seconds on cold starts. I'm going to get a new oil pressure sensor, but I'm just curious what people's thoughts are? It didn't always do this. I remember it turning of instantly - I think even with this engine when I first got it back in.
At least for the e36 its actually in the owners manual that the oil pressure light is supposed to be on for 1-3 seconds after startup.
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If you’re worried slap an aftermarket gauge in it for some redundancy
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If you’re worried slap an aftermarket gauge in it for some redundancy
I looked into this and I think I’ll add an oil pressure gauge.
Now I need to decide if I should just go with an oil pressure gauge and do a single gauge pod in the vent or go with three gauges and do the ash tray gauge mount. Probably oil pressure, oil temp, and something else. But that seems like overkill in a stock car.
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I looked into this and I think I’ll add an oil pressure gauge.
Now I need to decide if I should just go with an oil pressure gauge and do a single gauge pod in the vent or go with three gauges and do the ash tray gauge mount. Probably oil pressure, oil temp, and something else. But that seems like overkill in a stock car.
Overkill? Is that a thing? Anyway, coolant temp is always nice, the stock gauge is all but useless with the large buffered spot in the middle. If you add an oil pressure gauge use a T so you keep the idiot light. A gauge is not eye catching enough unless it has some kind of programmable limit with a warning light. Also depending on the sending unit size/weight I usually remote mount them so the large sending unit isn't hanging from a vibrating engine by a 1/8npt nipple.
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So far my favorite option for the oil temp and pressure is the oil filter sandwich plate. Seems to give the cleanest install. Bimmerworlds sells a nice adapter for the oil pressure sensor but at $110, I'd rather not. I can use one of the spare ports on the thermostat for water temp.
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So far my favorite option for the oil temp and pressure is the oil filter sandwich plate. Seems to give the cleanest install. Bimmerworlds sells a nice adapter for the oil pressure sensor but at $110, I'd rather not. I can use one of the spare ports on the thermostat for water temp.
I’m not too sure about the m20 stock oil psi sender location, but if it’s m12x1.5 these should work(?)
https://rallyroad.net/products/oil-gauge-distribution-block
TRM made a super simple one that was like $24 but it’s on back order
there’s a similar one (to the trm) on fleabay for like $30 -looks like you lose the stock sensor though so probably not ideal
bimmerheads has one for the m20 for like $35 but it’s also out of stock...
i used the VDO vision gauges in my e30s. They are a fairly close match to the cluster if you’re after some period correctness. Just make sure when/if you buy senders you match the sweep of the gauge (most of the visions are a 90° sweep) and the overall range (0-250°F or whatever)
https://www.vdo-gauges.com/instruments-displays-and-clusters/by-series/vision-black.html
Decently priced as well. I run water temp/oil temp/oil psi where the radio used to be. There’s a lot of options for mounting gauges in these cars, but you usually give something up - a vent, center console pocket thing, radio, obc, etc.
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Working on removing the rear subframe to do TAB and subframe bushings. It’s read to come out except for the e-brake cables. Looks like the rubber tube from the car to the hub is all part of the cable assembly. And from reading other threads they can be a real bitch to remove. Anyone have any tips or tricks to remove these from the car or hub before I just cut them in half and buy new cable assemblies?
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just cut them in half and buy new cable assemblies
No, you got the right idea.
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No, you got the right idea.
That's the green light I needed.
I think they are similar to e36 cables. If you spray them with some penetrating oil you can wiggle them out by tapping or prying one side then the other. It is just a tapered fit that wedges tight. It depends how nasty everything is though.
They do appear to be pressure fitted into the frame and the hub, but they are very nasty. Since I will have the rear subframe out, I might as well replace the e-brake parts.
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if the cables housing are badly stuck at the hub, they are probably stuck at the body, too, so be ready for that.
if you're dropping the subframe, its a definitely good "while youre in there" item, despite the hassle.
Dan
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if the cables housing are badly stuck at the hub, they are probably stuck at the body, too, so be ready for that.
if you're dropping the subframe, its a definitely good "while youre in there" item, despite the hassle.
I figured as much. I knew it wasn't going to be as easy as "disconnect the ebrake cables from the body of the car" like the write-ups said.
Going to do poly trailing arm and subframe bushings and then replace the rear brake lines with the Chase Bays front to rear brake line kit. Certain parts of the brake line and the junction block are looking super crusty.
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I figured as much. I knew it wasn't going to be as easy as "disconnect the ebrake cables from the body of the car" like the write-ups said.
pb blaster, heating, prying, cursing, etc etc. i'd go spray em right now if you can.
this writeup describes and has good pictures of what youll run into. there is a metal ferule sleeved into a metal pipe that is part of the chassis and rust likes to hold them together.
Dan
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