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Non-BMW Stuff on a BMW Forum

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  • G
    G
    gilber33
    wrote on last edited by
    #437

    Crank and new main bearings is in and the pistons are all cleaned up. 

    Doing the crank was way easier than I assumed it would be. Which always makes me feel like I did it completely wrong. 😩

    8A288D8A-EF8C-4C27-ACF1-68E780C8F5C8.jpeg

    D7248E6F-A0BA-4055-8319-9DB066AF5517.jpeg

    1FF35E99-379E-42E7-A2FE-040458E4DE6E.jpeg

    6C23B3E6-2448-4469-9B08-0DCBF61BE65C.jpeg

    2B3423CD-4FE1-4E75-BAF2-0C24AD61DCED.jpeg

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    • G
      G
      gilber33
      wrote on last edited by
      #438

      After doing some more reading, I’m going to pull the crank back out to clean the bearing seating surfaces a little more thoroughly on the block and caps. And then reinstall the bearings and crank. Better safe than sorry.

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      0
      • G
        G
        gilber33
        wrote on last edited by
        #439

        Redid the crank bearings last night and I’m glad I did. I didn’t clean it as thoroughly as I could have before. Cleaned all the piston rings grooves and started measuring ring gaps. 

        The Bentley Manual calls for a .012 - .020 gap and all the rings came in at .013 on the first two cylinders. Looks like I might be able to get away without having to do any filing.

        1 Reply Last reply
        0
        • jc43089J
          jc43089J
          jc43089
          wrote on last edited by
          #440

          gilber33 said:

          Redid the crank bearings last night and I’m glad I did. I didn’t clean it as thoroughly as I could have before. Cleaned all the piston rings grooves and started measuring ring gaps. 

          The Bentley Manual calls for a .012 - .020 gap and all the rings came in at .013 on the first two cylinders. Looks like I might be able to get away without having to do any filing. 

          Did you check clearance with plastigage?

          2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
          3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
          '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

          '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

          '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
          '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
          '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

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          • G
            G
            gilber33
            wrote on last edited by
            #441

            Nope. In my mind, if it was fine with the old bearings in there before, it’s going to at a minimum be better with new ones.

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            0
            • GunMetalGreyG
              GunMetalGreyG
              GunMetalGrey
              wrote on last edited by
              #442

              gilber33 said:

              Nope. In my mind, if it was fine with the old bearings in there before, it’s going to at a minimum be better with new ones. 

              Not that I haven't done the same, but from a manufacturing standpoint this is terrible logic. 

              I'm glad you get to avoid filing rings, that's a tedious task that usually requires a spare ring or two!

              ...

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              0
              • G
                G
                gilber33
                wrote on last edited by
                #443

                GunMetalGrey said:

                Not that I haven't done the same, but from a manufacturing standpoint this is terrible logic. 

                I'm glad you get to avoid filing rings, that's a tedious task that usually requires a spare ring or two! 

                I knoooowwwwww. I guess I can check the clearances. I’ve taken back apart once. I know you’re supposed to do it it dry but I’ve already lubed it up. Will I be fine taking the crank out and wiping down the bearings to remove most of the oil? 

                Also, can anyone confirm that the bearing clearance should be between .03-.07 mm?

                edit: bought some plastigauge. I’ll pull the crank off and wipe down the bearings and measure the clearance section.

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                0
                • G
                  G
                  gilber33
                  wrote on last edited by
                  #444

                  Pulled the crank back out tonight, cleaned off the bearings, put it back in with plastigauge.

                  .038 across the all 7 caps. Very healthy. At least I know now. Also got three pistons ready to go in. 

                  CC947B99-CD5D-46B5-ABA2-93AC09724B0D.jpeg

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                  0
                  • G
                    G
                    gilber33
                    wrote on last edited by
                    #445

                    Pistons back in. All clearances are on the bottom end of what is required in the manual. 

                    C8AFF2C0-AB4C-49C7-ADA1-9CEF9A4D3DAF.jpeg

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                    0
                    • straight6pwrS
                      straight6pwrS
                      straight6pwr
                      wrote on last edited by
                      #446

                      gilber33 said:

                      All clearances are on the bottom end

                      allow myself to introduce...myself

                      Dan
                      yajsYRL.jpg.e5f350b4dfe961d76ac8b32efce2e1a6.jpg

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                      • jc43089J
                        jc43089J
                        jc43089
                        wrote on last edited by
                        #447

                        gilber33 said:

                        Pulled the crank back out tonight, cleaned off the bearings, put it back in with plastigauge.

                        .038 across the all 7 caps. Very healthy. At least I know now. Also got three pistons ready to go in. 

                        CC947B99-CD5D-46B5-ABA2-93AC09724B0D.jpeg

                        I had a panic attack for you and then realized you must mean .038 mm, which is about .0015 inch which I would say is perfect if I remember right.  I think spec is .0008 to .0018 but it has been a while.  How I can remember correct bearing clearances but forget half of the stuff I need when I go to the store I don't understand.

                        2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
                        3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
                        '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

                        '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

                        '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
                        '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
                        '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

                        1 Reply Last reply
                        1
                        • G
                          G
                          gilber33
                          wrote on last edited by
                          #448

                          jc43089 said:

                          I had a panic attack for you and then realized you must mean .038 mm, which is about .0015 inch which I would say is perfect if I remember right.  I think spec is .0008 to .0018 but it has been a while.  How I can remember correct bearing clearances but forget half of the stuff I need when I go to the store I don't understand.

                          Lol. Yeah. .038mm. 

                          I remember very random car details and then I’m like what’s my kids’ names again?

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                          • G
                            G
                            gilber33
                            wrote on last edited by
                            #449

                            Slowly but surely. Building our 2yo a playhouse for her 3rd birthday and gotta start on a garden shed so this has taken a back seat unfortunately. 

                            A103349A-334F-4834-A11B-CDDC92507F84.jpeg

                            F18F83F2-E851-473C-AAF9-9A400BE86A90.jpeg

                            4D23E80E-1C70-4F52-BD27-A7EBF58D4869.jpeg

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                            • KaiserRollsK
                              KaiserRollsK
                              KaiserRolls
                              wrote on last edited by
                              #450

                              Playhouse build thread time

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                              1
                              • G
                                G
                                gilber33
                                wrote on last edited by
                                #451

                                KaiserRolls said:

                                Playhouse build thread time

                                Lol. Nothing super exciting. But, she’ll be thrilled when it’s done. We’re telling her it’s a tool shed for the lawnmower and she can’t play in it. It’s For her birthday next month. 

                                060C863E-DDD1-4A93-B011-A3726A75EDB1.jpeg

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                                3
                                • G
                                  G
                                  gilber33
                                  wrote on last edited by
                                  #452

                                  I wanna make sure this is right or wrong. I’m replacing the front crank seal and it looks like the outer lip of the seal doesn’t sit flush against the crank. Is this right? It doesn’t feel like it should be. It’s an elring seal. 

                                  7F78EDA0-9222-41B0-A5A7-C2B553F9ACA7.jpeg

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                                  0
                                  • B
                                    B
                                    B C
                                    wrote on last edited by
                                    #453

                                    Thats fine, and on older engines it is preferable for the lip seals to ride deeper or shallower than normal to avoid riding in the minute groove that is formed on the shaft surface

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                                    0
                                    • G
                                      G
                                      gilber33
                                      wrote on last edited by
                                      #454

                                      B C said:

                                      Thats fine, and on older engines it is preferable for the lip seals to ride deeper or shallower than normal to avoid riding in the minute groove that is formed on the shaft surface

                                      That outer lip doesn’t even touch the crank. The inner seal do for sure, just not the outer one. That’s okay?

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                                      0
                                      • B
                                        B
                                        B C
                                        wrote on last edited by
                                        #455

                                        The actual sealing lip is further back like so.

                                        A7D53186-E656-46C0-824C-4EEC738E6F3C.png.b1273adddd5f52d5ff15dafde43840bf.png

                                        Trust your gut, if you feel funny about it, redo it with a new seal and also check to make sure the aluminum seal housing is sitting flush on the block. Kind of a dumb suggestion but its the only thing im coming up with off the top of my head that could physically affect the seal position

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                                        0
                                        • G
                                          G
                                          gilber33
                                          wrote on last edited by
                                          #456

                                          That picture helps. It’s weird to me that this one would have that gap around the outer lip but the others wouldn’t. That’s why it’s throwing me off. 

                                          Oil pump gear

                                          AE1CC1DA-07AE-4809-A2F0-2AD82BB764F7.jpeg

                                          crank

                                          026ED1E4-AA50-4FAF-8C68-E8820EEACD2E.jpeg

                                          1 Reply Last reply
                                          0

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