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Non-BMW Stuff on a BMW Forum

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  • G
    G
    gilber33
    wrote on last edited by
    #433

    Hey guys- so what am I looking for to check both the universal joint on the driveshaft and the CSB? The driveshaft is out for inspection.

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    • B
      B
      B C
      wrote on last edited by
      #434

      The joints need to move smoothly with no grit, binding, or increase in resistance. When you grab the yoke and the shaft and check it for freeplay, there should be none.

      CSB should have no cracks in the rubber and the bearing should be tight and quiet as it rotates.

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      • G
        G
        gilber33
        wrote on last edited by
        #435

        Got the block back today after a hone. Started cleaning up the pistons. One is kinda done and two others are soaking in carb cleaner for the night. AEE7C8C6-E2A4-41CF-8BB1-8AC561D95601.jpeg

        7171D3DC-D195-477B-B4E3-0A1A9EB689CB.jpeg

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        • B
          B
          B C
          wrote on last edited by
          #436

          In regards to the two connectors Chris identified,  the first 2 things to check when an M20 isnt starting after a teardown is

          1. did the fuel lines get swapped?

          2. did those two connectors get swapped?

          IMO Cleaning up an engine is the most satisfying part of wrenching.

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          • G
            G
            gilber33
            wrote on last edited by
            #437

            Crank and new main bearings is in and the pistons are all cleaned up. 

            Doing the crank was way easier than I assumed it would be. Which always makes me feel like I did it completely wrong. 😩

            8A288D8A-EF8C-4C27-ACF1-68E780C8F5C8.jpeg

            D7248E6F-A0BA-4055-8319-9DB066AF5517.jpeg

            1FF35E99-379E-42E7-A2FE-040458E4DE6E.jpeg

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            • G
              G
              gilber33
              wrote on last edited by
              #438

              After doing some more reading, I’m going to pull the crank back out to clean the bearing seating surfaces a little more thoroughly on the block and caps. And then reinstall the bearings and crank. Better safe than sorry.

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              • G
                G
                gilber33
                wrote on last edited by
                #439

                Redid the crank bearings last night and I’m glad I did. I didn’t clean it as thoroughly as I could have before. Cleaned all the piston rings grooves and started measuring ring gaps. 

                The Bentley Manual calls for a .012 - .020 gap and all the rings came in at .013 on the first two cylinders. Looks like I might be able to get away without having to do any filing.

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                • jc43089J
                  jc43089J
                  jc43089
                  wrote on last edited by
                  #440

                  gilber33 said:

                  Redid the crank bearings last night and I’m glad I did. I didn’t clean it as thoroughly as I could have before. Cleaned all the piston rings grooves and started measuring ring gaps. 

                  The Bentley Manual calls for a .012 - .020 gap and all the rings came in at .013 on the first two cylinders. Looks like I might be able to get away without having to do any filing. 

                  Did you check clearance with plastigage?

                  2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
                  3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
                  '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

                  '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

                  '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
                  '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
                  '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

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                  • G
                    G
                    gilber33
                    wrote on last edited by
                    #441

                    Nope. In my mind, if it was fine with the old bearings in there before, it’s going to at a minimum be better with new ones.

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                    • GunMetalGreyG
                      GunMetalGreyG
                      GunMetalGrey
                      wrote on last edited by
                      #442

                      gilber33 said:

                      Nope. In my mind, if it was fine with the old bearings in there before, it’s going to at a minimum be better with new ones. 

                      Not that I haven't done the same, but from a manufacturing standpoint this is terrible logic. 

                      I'm glad you get to avoid filing rings, that's a tedious task that usually requires a spare ring or two!

                      ...

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                      • G
                        G
                        gilber33
                        wrote on last edited by
                        #443

                        GunMetalGrey said:

                        Not that I haven't done the same, but from a manufacturing standpoint this is terrible logic. 

                        I'm glad you get to avoid filing rings, that's a tedious task that usually requires a spare ring or two! 

                        I knoooowwwwww. I guess I can check the clearances. I’ve taken back apart once. I know you’re supposed to do it it dry but I’ve already lubed it up. Will I be fine taking the crank out and wiping down the bearings to remove most of the oil? 

                        Also, can anyone confirm that the bearing clearance should be between .03-.07 mm?

                        edit: bought some plastigauge. I’ll pull the crank off and wipe down the bearings and measure the clearance section.

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                        • G
                          G
                          gilber33
                          wrote on last edited by
                          #444

                          Pulled the crank back out tonight, cleaned off the bearings, put it back in with plastigauge.

                          .038 across the all 7 caps. Very healthy. At least I know now. Also got three pistons ready to go in. 

                          CC947B99-CD5D-46B5-ABA2-93AC09724B0D.jpeg

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                          0
                          • G
                            G
                            gilber33
                            wrote on last edited by
                            #445

                            Pistons back in. All clearances are on the bottom end of what is required in the manual. 

                            C8AFF2C0-AB4C-49C7-ADA1-9CEF9A4D3DAF.jpeg

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                            0
                            • straight6pwrS
                              straight6pwrS
                              straight6pwr
                              wrote on last edited by
                              #446

                              gilber33 said:

                              All clearances are on the bottom end

                              allow myself to introduce...myself

                              Dan
                              yajsYRL.jpg.e5f350b4dfe961d76ac8b32efce2e1a6.jpg

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                              • jc43089J
                                jc43089J
                                jc43089
                                wrote on last edited by
                                #447

                                gilber33 said:

                                Pulled the crank back out tonight, cleaned off the bearings, put it back in with plastigauge.

                                .038 across the all 7 caps. Very healthy. At least I know now. Also got three pistons ready to go in. 

                                CC947B99-CD5D-46B5-ABA2-93AC09724B0D.jpeg

                                I had a panic attack for you and then realized you must mean .038 mm, which is about .0015 inch which I would say is perfect if I remember right.  I think spec is .0008 to .0018 but it has been a while.  How I can remember correct bearing clearances but forget half of the stuff I need when I go to the store I don't understand.

                                2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
                                3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
                                '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

                                '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

                                '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
                                '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
                                '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

                                1 Reply Last reply
                                1
                                • G
                                  G
                                  gilber33
                                  wrote on last edited by
                                  #448

                                  jc43089 said:

                                  I had a panic attack for you and then realized you must mean .038 mm, which is about .0015 inch which I would say is perfect if I remember right.  I think spec is .0008 to .0018 but it has been a while.  How I can remember correct bearing clearances but forget half of the stuff I need when I go to the store I don't understand.

                                  Lol. Yeah. .038mm. 

                                  I remember very random car details and then I’m like what’s my kids’ names again?

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                                  • G
                                    G
                                    gilber33
                                    wrote on last edited by
                                    #449

                                    Slowly but surely. Building our 2yo a playhouse for her 3rd birthday and gotta start on a garden shed so this has taken a back seat unfortunately. 

                                    A103349A-334F-4834-A11B-CDDC92507F84.jpeg

                                    F18F83F2-E851-473C-AAF9-9A400BE86A90.jpeg

                                    4D23E80E-1C70-4F52-BD27-A7EBF58D4869.jpeg

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                                    • KaiserRollsK
                                      KaiserRollsK
                                      KaiserRolls
                                      wrote on last edited by
                                      #450

                                      Playhouse build thread time

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                                      1
                                      • G
                                        G
                                        gilber33
                                        wrote on last edited by
                                        #451

                                        KaiserRolls said:

                                        Playhouse build thread time

                                        Lol. Nothing super exciting. But, she’ll be thrilled when it’s done. We’re telling her it’s a tool shed for the lawnmower and she can’t play in it. It’s For her birthday next month. 

                                        060C863E-DDD1-4A93-B011-A3726A75EDB1.jpeg

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                                        • G
                                          G
                                          gilber33
                                          wrote on last edited by
                                          #452

                                          I wanna make sure this is right or wrong. I’m replacing the front crank seal and it looks like the outer lip of the seal doesn’t sit flush against the crank. Is this right? It doesn’t feel like it should be. It’s an elring seal. 

                                          7F78EDA0-9222-41B0-A5A7-C2B553F9ACA7.jpeg

                                          1 Reply Last reply
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