Non-BMW Stuff on a BMW Forum
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Two suggestions
#1 Use rivnuts on the chassis side to bolt the core support back in with. It's handy as hell
#2 Make sure to slice things to you can remove your core support without needing to pull the fenders.
#2.5 Have a couple beers, slicing into your core support feels like it should be more calculated than it really is, and a little grinder operation lubricant never hurts.I used a new core support because mine was bent, so I had the luxury of truly destroying it.
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I was planning on using rivnuts. Seems much easier than welding nuts for bolts.
I would much rather cut it out without having to pull the fenders. I assume that if I am slicing it so it can ultimately be removed without needing to pull the fenders I shouldnt need to pull the fenders off to do the initial cuts?
I will make sure the mini fridge in the garage is stocked before I start cutting.
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The joints need to move smoothly with no grit, binding, or increase in resistance. When you grab the yoke and the shaft and check it for freeplay, there should be none.
CSB should have no cracks in the rubber and the bearing should be tight and quiet as it rotates.
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Redid the crank bearings last night and I’m glad I did. I didn’t clean it as thoroughly as I could have before. Cleaned all the piston rings grooves and started measuring ring gaps.
The Bentley Manual calls for a .012 - .020 gap and all the rings came in at .013 on the first two cylinders. Looks like I might be able to get away without having to do any filing.
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Redid the crank bearings last night and I’m glad I did. I didn’t clean it as thoroughly as I could have before. Cleaned all the piston rings grooves and started measuring ring gaps.
The Bentley Manual calls for a .012 - .020 gap and all the rings came in at .013 on the first two cylinders. Looks like I might be able to get away without having to do any filing.
Did you check clearance with plastigage?
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Nope. In my mind, if it was fine with the old bearings in there before, it’s going to at a minimum be better with new ones.
Not that I haven't done the same, but from a manufacturing standpoint this is terrible logic.
I'm glad you get to avoid filing rings, that's a tedious task that usually requires a spare ring or two!
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Not that I haven't done the same, but from a manufacturing standpoint this is terrible logic.
I'm glad you get to avoid filing rings, that's a tedious task that usually requires a spare ring or two!
I knoooowwwwww. I guess I can check the clearances. I’ve taken back apart once. I know you’re supposed to do it it dry but I’ve already lubed it up. Will I be fine taking the crank out and wiping down the bearings to remove most of the oil?
Also, can anyone confirm that the bearing clearance should be between .03-.07 mm?
edit: bought some plastigauge. I’ll pull the crank off and wipe down the bearings and measure the clearance section.
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All clearances are on the bottom end
allow myself to introduce...myself
Dan
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Pulled the crank back out tonight, cleaned off the bearings, put it back in with plastigauge.
.038 across the all 7 caps. Very healthy. At least I know now. Also got three pistons ready to go in.
I had a panic attack for you and then realized you must mean .038 mm, which is about .0015 inch which I would say is perfect if I remember right. I think spec is .0008 to .0018 but it has been a while. How I can remember correct bearing clearances but forget half of the stuff I need when I go to the store I don't understand.
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I had a panic attack for you and then realized you must mean .038 mm, which is about .0015 inch which I would say is perfect if I remember right. I think spec is .0008 to .0018 but it has been a while. How I can remember correct bearing clearances but forget half of the stuff I need when I go to the store I don't understand.
Lol. Yeah. .038mm.
I remember very random car details and then I’m like what’s my kids’ names again?
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Playhouse build thread time
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