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Non-BMW Stuff on a BMW Forum

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  • G
    G
    gilber33
    wrote on last edited by
    #1026

    m42b32 said:

    Possibly a grounding issue? I have a bad ground on my temp gauges at the moment and they bounce around quite a bit. I'd take a look at the engine ground strap. Not sure if that would cause it to die, but with the gauges bouncing around that is my first thought. 

    Since the aftermarket and cluster gauges were reacting the same way my first thought was either a grounding or battery issue. The battery is old and has died flat several times from me leaving doors open and whatnot when working on it. So maybe the heat just did it in and any draw is taking it out? Idk, I’ve had bad batteries do some weird stuff before.

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    • G
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      gilber33
      wrote on last edited by
      #1027

      Car is home. It appears to have been the battery. 
       

      Another thing it was doing this morning is the temp gauge would twitch when I pressed the brake pedal. And since this was happening to both sets of gauges which are on separate circuits with their own sensors, it made me assume that there were interruptions in the power draw. 
       

      The battery was 2015 and like I said the battery had drained to zero several times. So it must have decided today was the day and it sent out all sorts of fucked up voltage into the car. 
       

      On the way home the gauge was steady the whole way and the car actually ran cooler. I’m not saying the car is physically running cooler, but perhaps the gauge is now reading accurately. 

      We’ll see tomorrow. This is the period where I don’t want any issues as I’m driving to make sure it’s good for the rally.

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        gilber33
        wrote on last edited by
        #1028

        Alright. With that kerfuffle behind us. Back to business. 

        9F239B2B-29D5-400C-AC84-3FC81738AA03.jpeg
         

        It is amazing how much room I have to go higher but how much further it is already off the ground compared to jack stands. 
         

        D9E0CF9C-825D-4627-A998-776BC4DDA80E.jpeg

        Some marks on the floor for next time. I’ll do the same with gray paint for the e30. 
         

        76E1EC4F-45E3-46C2-8362-40EB1EDEF6C2.jpeg

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        • KaiserRollsK
          KaiserRollsK
          KaiserRolls
          wrote on last edited by
          #1029

          How tall are your ceilings? My bad if you’ve mentioned it earlier

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          • G
            G
            gilber33
            wrote on last edited by
            #1030

            KaiserRolls said:

            How tall are your ceilings? My bad if you’ve mentioned it earlier 

            8' plus a few inches for the curb that the walls are on.

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            • Bassboy3313B
              Bassboy3313B
              Bassboy3313
              wrote on last edited by
              #1031

              Part of me wishes I got a maxjax lift instead of my scissor lift, due to it being in the way of jobs that are directly under the car. But then the space savings around the car of the scissor lift is the plus side. Either way, not having to deal with Jack stands and such makes any style lift well worth it.

              CHECK OUT >>> RAGE DRIFT DESIGNS <<< FOR DECALS AND MORE!

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              • G
                G
                gilber33
                wrote on last edited by
                #1032

                e30 died at lunch again today. It just turned off. This time it would crank and the engine would turn over, but it would not start. Yesterday when I tried cranking it the engine wouldn't turn over. I wasn't getting any goofiness with the gauges this time either. So I don't know if this is related to yesterday or not. It seemed like it wasn't getting any fuel, I pulled out the rear seat and cranked it and couldn't hear anything. Pulled the connector off and hooked up my voltmeter and confirmed it was getting 12v but at the same time the car started (it died right away because the fuel pump was unplugged). Plugged the fuel pump back in, car started right up and I drove it back to work with no issue. 

                I don't know. I have no idea. I'm going to put some dialectic grease on the fuel pump connectors and see if there's some way to better secure them and maybe it was just a loose connection. 

                What's been replaced: 

                • New DEM, fuel pump, and other orange relay in the engine bay
                • New cap and rotor. The coil is only a couple years old. 
                • New OEM crank position sensor.

                I have new coolant sensors coming soon. Maybe one of them is getting too hot and give the ecu bad data. I don't know. 

                I don't know why it's doing this.

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                • straight6pwrS
                  straight6pwrS
                  straight6pwr
                  wrote on last edited by
                  #1033

                  stupid idea, maybe, but did you check your battery connections? (dropped in a new battery, right?) i forgot to tighten once and was left with car that died then had starting issues at a gas station till i figured it out it was very loose.

                  Dan
                  yajsYRL.jpg.e5f350b4dfe961d76ac8b32efce2e1a6.jpg

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                  • G
                    G
                    gilber33
                    wrote on last edited by
                    #1034

                    straight6pwr said:

                    stupid idea, maybe, but did you check your battery connections? (dropped in a new battery, right?) i forgot to tighten once and was left with car that died then had starting issues at a gas station till i figured it out it was very loose.

                    It wasn’t super tight. Maybe that’s what it was. I feel like this is a power issue. The ground is super grody and where the power wire comes into the distribution block in the engine bay is really corroded. 
                     

                    88B6429C-175E-4B3E-AA07-9AC19EC96F95.jpeg

                    Unfortunately it doesn’t look like these can be taken apart and cleaned and it needs to be replaced. I’m going to get some new power wire and distribution block.

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                    • YoungCRY
                      YoungCRY
                      YoungCR
                      wrote on last edited by
                      #1035

                      This flowchart hasways been my fav for diagnosis.

                      https://www.e30zone.net/e30wiki/index.php/Engines_Troubleshoot

                      Chris Young
                      BMWCCA #458972
                      1986 528e/5  | 1994 530i/5 | 1995 540i/6 | 2013 X5 35d | 1998 C1500 Suburban | 1995 K2500 Suburban

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                      • G
                        G
                        gilber33
                        wrote on last edited by
                        #1036

                        YoungCR said:

                        This flowchart hasways been my fav for diagnosis.

                        https://www.e30zone.net/e30wiki/index.php/Engines_Troubleshoot

                        I've never seen that before. That looks like something worth printing and framing to keep in the garage. 😆

                        I'm going to start with new battery power cable from the battery to the engine bay with a new distribution block. There are visible signs of wear at both ends of the battery cable and the battery ground is in poor shape. 

                        Once that's done, Tom gave me a link to a nice write up for testing voltage drop and other electrical thingers. The hard part is it died, and then it worked. I can't diagnose why it died when it's running completely fine in that moment. 🙄

                        1 Reply Last reply
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                        • m42b32M
                          m42b32M
                          m42b32
                          wrote on last edited by
                          #1037

                          https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?2407389-Diagnosing-the-Symptoms-of-a-Bad-Engine-Ground

                          ^ Another quick thing to check out if you haven't already.

                          I'd imagine any high resistance connections between the battery and distribution block could cause similar issues as well, as you wouldn't be getting the full battery voltage anywhere beyond that point.

                          1991 318is, 1991 318i, 2022 Bronco

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                          • G
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                            gilber33
                            wrote on last edited by
                            #1038

                            m42b32 said:

                            https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?2407389-Diagnosing-the-Symptoms-of-a-Bad-Engine-Ground

                            ^ Another quick thing to check out if you haven't already.

                            I'd imagine any high resistance connections between the battery and distribution block could cause similar issues as well, as you wouldn't be getting the full battery voltage anywhere beyond that point. 

                            That's an awesome resource, too! Thank you. I got 20' of 1/0 gauge battery cable. I'm hoping to have enough to make a new battery to chassis ground and engine to chassis ground. I'll go through and clean up all other grounds, too. 

                            Some of the symptoms I'm reading in there sounds like something I've been experiencing. It mentioned pressing the brake pedal and lights dim. When it died the first time, I noticed on my way to work that when I pressed the brake pedal the temp gauge would twitch. It's gotta be some type of disruption in the power lead or a bad ground somewhere.

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                            • G
                              G
                              gilber33
                              wrote on last edited by
                              #1039

                              Wrapped up the suspension on the 850 last night and when I went to switch the cars the e30 wouldn't start. pushed it into the garage and the fuel pump isn't getting power. Jumping the relay doesn't turn it on. With the relay jumped there was less than a volt at the pump fuse. I've been reading a lot about the fusible link wire from the battery to the power block and how that specifically powers the main relay and ultimately the fuel pump. 

                              Tested the voltage at the power block and here's what I got at the main power block (please enjoy my fabulous pink sparkly nail polish from my 5yo a few nights ago): 

                              AF3804D0-2DB1-4A77-BEFE-7270D1C850BF.jpeg

                              And at the fusible link junction:

                              8B2BD8C8-6B02-465E-AEB7-1A4F7690D5DA.jpeg

                              I'm assuming this is my main issue. My guess is that it's a combination of the not super great battery terminal setup installed by one of the PO'S, aging fusible link, and things being dirty. But I read several stories of the fuse getting old and causing issues. 

                              Does anyone know if this comes off? 

                              9EB01FFC-CCEE-41E4-8E24-70752EB36B36.jpeg

                              Here you can see the corrosion inside of it. The picture actually makes it look a lot better than it is. 

                              31196BAD-0696-4FC9-B348-008F793618DA.jpeg

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                              • patsbimmer1P
                                patsbimmer1P
                                patsbimmer1
                                wrote on last edited by
                                #1040

                                I'm throwing this out there.  Engine to chassis ground strap.  I've had these corrode or loosen causing an intermittent no start.  Run a jumper cable from the battery negative to a ground on the engine and see if it starts.  If yes, replace your engine to chassis ground.  If no, ignore me.

                                2011 e90 M3 - DCT, Borla exhaust, BMW Performance Black Grille, ECS Painted Corners, Ziza Angel Eyes

                                07 335i Stella - sport package, BMS DCI, zhp knob, TMS cf parking brake lever, VRSF downpipes, MHD tune, H&R race springs, other stuff *SOLD*

                                97 328i Lola - sport package, m50 intake manifold, m50 manifold.com install kit, custom CAI, K&N filter, Borla exhaust, FK silverline coilovers, 25.5mm front sway bar, Powerflex front sway bushings, Turner Radiator, fan delete *sold*
                                95 325is *sold*
                                93 nissan 240sx KA-T *sold*

                                BMWCCA #473306

                                Instagram @patsbimmer1

                                AKA- HALLWAY PAT

                                "burnouts bring babes and babes dont have time for bushings" - Kaiser Rolls

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                                • G
                                  G
                                  gilber33
                                  wrote on last edited by
                                  #1041

                                  patsbimmer1 said:

                                  I'm throwing this out there.  Engine to chassis ground strap.  I've had these corrode or loosen causing an intermittent no start.  Run a jumper cable from the battery negative to a ground on the engine and see if it starts.  If yes, replace your engine to chassis ground.  If no, ignore me.

                                  lol. I got enough cable to replace the grounds so I'll be doing that regardless. But before I do anymore testing, I need to get the fusible link wire to have 12v in the engine first.

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                                  • G
                                    G
                                    gilber33
                                    wrote on last edited by
                                    #1042

                                    Brief update: 

                                    0B3D485E-B8CE-4D83-9FDA-246515593C5E.jpeg

                                    Still working on the new power leads. After receiving the incorrect terminals and messing up my first solder loaded terminal, I'm hoping to have better luck tonight so I can finish those. But I have done: 

                                    New AC condenser more appropriate for r134. 

                                    8AEBF937-8952-4D6F-B8F7-1E531866A5ED.jpeg

                                    Mocked up the power distribution blocks. 

                                    BDA3B587-CA95-4661-904F-2B20C77C2C00.jpeg

                                    Swapped out the larger subwoofer/box for an under-seat subwoofer that I mounted on the backside of the rear seat. Now I have the full trunk.

                                    E222C4C7-CB8A-41EB-BE91-AA05872884AC.jpeg

                                    7839D243-133D-45DE-9633-E22ACD782A06.jpeg

                                    Replaced the super sagging muffler hangers. 

                                    EDF2064D-DB14-4870-BC96-F0A7ECEB7BB7.jpeg

                                    Installed new oem coolant temp sensors and thermostat. 

                                    What's left: 

                                    • Power leads
                                    • Grounds
                                    • Oil change
                                    • Coolant fill
                                    • AC charge
                                    • Replace soft fuel hoses in engine compartment

                                    The Recaro saga may soon be coming to and end. After the owner of shop only offered to refund me $300 or attempt to fix them again, I filed a dispute with my bank/Visa. Once that process was started and he was notified he offered to purchase the seats from me for $1500. I said he could purchase them for $1800. While I would love to save them, I think the grim reality is that it will cost me MUCH more than $1,800 to ever have those look like they should. While I recovered the cost of the front seats, I'm out the cost of the rear seats. Sadly this was an expensive life lesson and if there's a next time I know who I won't use and I know who I will use.

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                                    • Bassboy3313B
                                      Bassboy3313B
                                      Bassboy3313
                                      wrote on last edited by
                                      #1043

                                      Lifts putting in work!! 👍

                                      20210912122627.jpg

                                      CHECK OUT >>> RAGE DRIFT DESIGNS <<< FOR DECALS AND MORE!

                                      1 Reply Last reply
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                                      • G
                                        G
                                        gilber33
                                        wrote on last edited by
                                        #1044

                                        Bassboy3313 said:

                                        Lifts putting in work!! 👍

                                        Looks good! I like how that one is flush mount and is out of the way when you're not using it.

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                                        • Bassboy3313B
                                          Bassboy3313B
                                          Bassboy3313
                                          wrote on last edited by
                                          #1045

                                          gilber33 said:

                                          Looks good! I like how that one is flush mount and is out of the way when you're not using it. 

                                          Thanks. I had the concrete guys recess a pit in the floor for it. The arms still sit above the floor for easier swing out, so not fully flush. But definitely better than when I had it just siting on garage floor.

                                          CHECK OUT >>> RAGE DRIFT DESIGNS <<< FOR DECALS AND MORE!

                                          1 Reply Last reply
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