Non-BMW Stuff on a BMW Forum
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stupid idea, maybe, but did you check your battery connections? (dropped in a new battery, right?) i forgot to tighten once and was left with car that died then had starting issues at a gas station till i figured it out it was very loose.
Dan
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stupid idea, maybe, but did you check your battery connections? (dropped in a new battery, right?) i forgot to tighten once and was left with car that died then had starting issues at a gas station till i figured it out it was very loose.
It wasn’t super tight. Maybe that’s what it was. I feel like this is a power issue. The ground is super grody and where the power wire comes into the distribution block in the engine bay is really corroded.
Unfortunately it doesn’t look like these can be taken apart and cleaned and it needs to be replaced. I’m going to get some new power wire and distribution block.
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This flowchart hasways been my fav for diagnosis.
https://www.e30zone.net/e30wiki/index.php/Engines_Troubleshoot
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This flowchart hasways been my fav for diagnosis.
https://www.e30zone.net/e30wiki/index.php/Engines_Troubleshoot
I've never seen that before. That looks like something worth printing and framing to keep in the garage.
I'm going to start with new battery power cable from the battery to the engine bay with a new distribution block. There are visible signs of wear at both ends of the battery cable and the battery ground is in poor shape.
Once that's done, Tom gave me a link to a nice write up for testing voltage drop and other electrical thingers. The hard part is it died, and then it worked. I can't diagnose why it died when it's running completely fine in that moment.
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^ Another quick thing to check out if you haven't already.
I'd imagine any high resistance connections between the battery and distribution block could cause similar issues as well, as you wouldn't be getting the full battery voltage anywhere beyond that point.
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^ Another quick thing to check out if you haven't already.
I'd imagine any high resistance connections between the battery and distribution block could cause similar issues as well, as you wouldn't be getting the full battery voltage anywhere beyond that point.
That's an awesome resource, too! Thank you. I got 20' of 1/0 gauge battery cable. I'm hoping to have enough to make a new battery to chassis ground and engine to chassis ground. I'll go through and clean up all other grounds, too.
Some of the symptoms I'm reading in there sounds like something I've been experiencing. It mentioned pressing the brake pedal and lights dim. When it died the first time, I noticed on my way to work that when I pressed the brake pedal the temp gauge would twitch. It's gotta be some type of disruption in the power lead or a bad ground somewhere.
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Wrapped up the suspension on the 850 last night and when I went to switch the cars the e30 wouldn't start. pushed it into the garage and the fuel pump isn't getting power. Jumping the relay doesn't turn it on. With the relay jumped there was less than a volt at the pump fuse. I've been reading a lot about the fusible link wire from the battery to the power block and how that specifically powers the main relay and ultimately the fuel pump.
Tested the voltage at the power block and here's what I got at the main power block (please enjoy my fabulous pink sparkly nail polish from my 5yo a few nights ago):
And at the fusible link junction:
I'm assuming this is my main issue. My guess is that it's a combination of the not super great battery terminal setup installed by one of the PO'S, aging fusible link, and things being dirty. But I read several stories of the fuse getting old and causing issues.
Does anyone know if this comes off?
Here you can see the corrosion inside of it. The picture actually makes it look a lot better than it is.
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I'm throwing this out there. Engine to chassis ground strap. I've had these corrode or loosen causing an intermittent no start. Run a jumper cable from the battery negative to a ground on the engine and see if it starts. If yes, replace your engine to chassis ground. If no, ignore me.
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I'm throwing this out there. Engine to chassis ground strap. I've had these corrode or loosen causing an intermittent no start. Run a jumper cable from the battery negative to a ground on the engine and see if it starts. If yes, replace your engine to chassis ground. If no, ignore me.
lol. I got enough cable to replace the grounds so I'll be doing that regardless. But before I do anymore testing, I need to get the fusible link wire to have 12v in the engine first.
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Brief update:
Still working on the new power leads. After receiving the incorrect terminals and messing up my first solder loaded terminal, I'm hoping to have better luck tonight so I can finish those. But I have done:
New AC condenser more appropriate for r134.
Mocked up the power distribution blocks.
Swapped out the larger subwoofer/box for an under-seat subwoofer that I mounted on the backside of the rear seat. Now I have the full trunk.
Replaced the super sagging muffler hangers.
Installed new oem coolant temp sensors and thermostat.
What's left:
- Power leads
- Grounds
- Oil change
- Coolant fill
- AC charge
- Replace soft fuel hoses in engine compartment
The Recaro saga may soon be coming to and end. After the owner of shop only offered to refund me $300 or attempt to fix them again, I filed a dispute with my bank/Visa. Once that process was started and he was notified he offered to purchase the seats from me for $1500. I said he could purchase them for $1800. While I would love to save them, I think the grim reality is that it will cost me MUCH more than $1,800 to ever have those look like they should. While I recovered the cost of the front seats, I'm out the cost of the rear seats. Sadly this was an expensive life lesson and if there's a next time I know who I won't use and I know who I will use.
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Lifts putting in work!!
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Lifts putting in work!!
Looks good! I like how that one is flush mount and is out of the way when you're not using it.
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Looks good! I like how that one is flush mount and is out of the way when you're not using it.
Thanks. I had the concrete guys recess a pit in the floor for it. The arms still sit above the floor for easier swing out, so not fully flush. But definitely better than when I had it just siting on garage floor.
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Thanks. I had the concrete guys recess a pit in the floor for it. The arms still sit above the floor for easier swing out, so not fully flush. But definitely better than when I had it just siting on garage floor.
Good call! I was pretty reluctant on the maxjax given that I didn't want to lose quick access to the garage, but with it on the lift I can still get in and out the door OK. And they are much easier to move out of the way than I thought they were going to be.
But on the car - it's back on the ground. I have 12v at both power leads in the engine bay. It started right up (obviously not the first time because the fuel pump was repressurizing the system). But the following starts it cranked really strong and started up with much healthier sound than it ever has.
New ground and power wires:
Solder loaded battery terminals worked amazing.
And the new fusible link.
I also replaced the fuel lines because the ones that were in there had some cracking along the tops of the hoses. I didn't know there was fuel hose and then fuel injector hose. So I got proper hose this time.
Anyone know what this blue connector is? It's behind the kick panel in the front passenger, it was unplugged when I opened everything up.
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Drove it to my evening meeting at work on Tuesday and I got there and back without it dying!
BUT, it developed a vibration that was very clearly coming from the tunnel down the car. Giubo was good. Everything was tight. The CSB was replaced in the last couple years. So I assumed it had to be the driveshaft. Once removed, it was very obvious the rear joint was garbage. Had "flat" spots and did not rotate smoothly. Over nighted one from FCP. Should be here tomorrow!
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Over nighted one from FCP
Overnight parts from Japan?
I wouldn't have thought to check them for driveshafts, but their pricing isn't bad at all.
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Overnight parts from Japan?
I wouldn't have thought to check them for driveshafts, but their pricing isn't bad at all.
It seems most of the european car sites use the Powertrain brand of rebuilt driveshafts - Pelican, FCP, Partsgeek, Autohaus AZ, etc. Pelican had it in stock and their overnight was similar to FCP, FCP was one business day out to ship it, and I have a 5%/10% off code that I can use on all my orders at FCP so they were a little bit cheaper.
BUT NOW, I talked to FCP this morning and it's shipping out today instead of yesterday like it was supposed to, which means it MIGHT get here tomorrow but more likely Monday. And I leave early Wednesday morning. Not what I wanted to be doing right before I was supposed to leave.
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Alright. So the rally was pretty awesome. I drove out to Denver the first day, and then to Mexican Hat, Utah. I did some exploring with the time I had while I waited for my friend to get there with his RS3 (in the pictures). The first day was driving from Mexican Hat to Escalante. The scenery was mostly what's in the pictures. We did the gravel switchback up one of the rock formations. The day ended in Escalante with eating at a small restaurant and a gathering at a vacant parking lot.
The next day we drove from Escalante to Mount Pleasant and the day ended at the Basin Drive-In theater where the Overcrest guys put together a short movie recognizing automotive films. The second day of driving was more long and winding roads outside of the desert/rocky area. Both days were gorgeous and it was amazing how much the scenery changed. I had no complaints at all. I ended up driving straight home leaving 4am on Sunday morning and getting home at 6am on Monday. The car did about 3850 miles with virtually no issues. I have a vibration over 80 and a rattle under the car which I think is the exhaust rubbing on something. Very happy with it though!
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