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FYI on the cruise control, are you removing it or what? The cable doesn't go through the firewall, it loops near the fusebox and goes go the throttle body. Unless you are talking about something else?
Or is the e30 cruise control totally different? Maybe don't pay attention to me
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FYI on the cruise control, are you removing it or what? The cable doesn't go through the firewall, it loops near the fusebox and goes go the throttle body. Unless you are talking about something else?
Or is the e30 cruise control totally different? Maybe don't pay attention to me
I am removing the cruise control. Maybe I saw the other half of the cable that went into the cable. I will double check, but running along the line it looked liked it went right into the car through the fire wall.
The thing that will get that off is heat, penetrating oil, and an impact. You may have to run the nut on and then off a few times to get it to go. The other side with the stuck nut needs heat and you need a lot bigger hammer lol
I'll give this a go. Didn't try going back and forth with the nut. Was going to use heat, but my torch was at the storage unit across town when I used it do remove the drive shaft.
Wanted to save the control arms, so I'm assuming smashing the top of the stud with a big hammer will probably ruin those lol
This if you're just replacing the full control arm anyway.
The Harbor Freight ball joint separator works on the outer instead of the fork if you want to save the boot.
Re stuck nut: The jack under the ball joint trick works to stop the spinning but it takes a lot of pressure. Jack it up until it stops spinning (it might lift the car a bit). If the nut is rusted on solid then penetrant/heat and if that fails cut it off.
Would like to save the control arms as the boots all look in good shape still. I had the car lifted off the jack stands with this trick, but wasn't able to apply any heat as I did not have my torch. I will give this method a try.
Thank you for the help gentlemen.
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stuck nut: you don't want to reuse that nut, so you could just cut it off with a dremel
stuck spindle: heat up the steering knuckle around the spindle, then strike the knuckle (not the spindle/threads) with a bfh.
secondly, if you are ditching your cruise control, can I have it?
Dan
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There’s two things coming off of an e30 cruise control actuator, the cable itself that runs to the throttle body, and the wiring which runs through the firewall as you said. It has its own hole in the firewall, so all you have to do is disconnect the plug underneath the kick panel, shove the grommet back through, disconnect the cable at the throttle body, unbolt the actuator and you’re set!
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Don't hit the stud with the hammer. You hit the knuckle hard and rapidly to free up the corrosion and allow it to drop out as it is wedged in because of the taper.
This. ^^^
I'll give this a go. Didn't try going back and forth with the nut. Was going to use heat, but my torch was at the storage unit across town when I used it do remove the drive shaft.
Wanted to save the control arms, so I'm assuming smashing the top of the stud with a big hammer will probably ruin those lol
Would like to save the control arms as the boots all look in good shape still. I had the car lifted off the jack stands with this trick, but wasn't able to apply any heat as I did not have my torch. I will give this method a try.
Thank you for the help gentlemen.
Judging by the rust around that stud, you WONT get this off without heat. There is also no way you will get this off without ruining the boot, ball joint, or both. You can buy replacement boots from the auto parts store. I got Energy suspension ones for roughly $10 for the pair I believe and the part number is in my build thread somewhere. They are much better than the oem ones.
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🥳SOLD BMW E24 633CSI - BMW M30B32 🧪SOLD HCH ES9 - 1.3 LDA
👽BMW E30 325IC - Toyota 1JZ-GTE ⏰ HONDA EF9 CIVIC SI - JDM B18C5
☠️BMW E36 318i - Ford 5.0 FE302 🚴♂️ GT-Labomba - 26x2.75 Freeride
🤹♀️SOLD BMW E36/7 Z3 - BMW M54B25 🧓SOLD BMW E10 2002 - BMW M10M05 -
stuck nut: you don't want to reuse that nut, so you could just cut it off with a dremel
stuck spindle: heat up the steering knuckle around the spindle, then strike the knuckle (not the spindle/threads) with a bfh.
secondly, if you are ditching your cruise control, can I have it?
Will give this a try after work. Otherwise, after looking at complete control assemblies I might just buy two new ones.
I'll message you about the CC
There’s two things coming off of an e30 cruise control actuator, the cable itself that runs to the throttle body, and the wiring which runs through the firewall as you said. It has its own hole in the firewall, so all you have to do is disconnect the plug underneath the kick panel, shove the grommet back through, disconnect the cable at the throttle body, unbolt the actuator and you’re set!
Will do, thank you.
Don't hit the stud with the hammer. You hit the knuckle hard and rapidly to free up the corrosion and allow it to drop out as it is wedged in because of the taper.
Will give this a try.
This. ^^^
Judging by the rust around that stud, you WONT get this off without heat. There is also no way you will get this off without ruining the boot, ball joint, or both. You can buy replacement boots from the auto parts store. I got Energy suspension ones for roughly $10 for the pair I believe and the part number is in my build thread somewhere. They are much better than the oem ones.
Yeah, after thinking about it and checking prices for complete control arm assemblies, I might just buy new ones. Probably would be a good time to replace them.
I appreciate everyone's help and input. I know what I'm doing for the most part, but this is for the most part my first real dive into work on a car as well as an E30. So a lot of this is a learning experience.
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FCP Euro has the pair of e30 Lemforder control arms typically on sale. Plus free lifetime replacement for any reason if your hooning goes bad.
Might as well replace the bushings with offset m3 CABs while you've got it all apart. Gets you more negative front camber.
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FCP Euro has the pair of e30 Lemforder control arms typically on sale. Plus free lifetime replacement for any reason if your hooning goes bad.
Might as well replace the bushings with offset m3 CABs while you've got it all apart. Gets you more negative front camber.
This was my next question. I have the control arms in the basket. For the CABs, do the offset ones just give more camber than the centered? Are there any options for pre-pressed bushings into the lollipops other than the Turner ones?
For putting the CABs onto the control arms, is there any kind of special tool or procedure that needs to be done? Or should new CABs be able to just be pushed onto the control arms?
This is sounding like probably the best option for the lack of headaches as well as replacing some important components while I'm in there.
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To install the control arm bushings they can be removed with an air chisel or cutting the rubber out and using a saw to split the outer ring so it collapses and falls out. To install they can be pressed in with a decent vise if you don't have a press. Pay attention to the orientation, and either get the offset or centered e36 M3 bushings. To get the control arm into the bushing I use dish soap. You need to install them onto the control arm last so the car can be set down quickly while the soap is still slippery, then they will be clocked correctly at ride height.
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To install the control arm bushings they can be removed with an air chisel or cutting the rubber out and using a saw to split the outer ring so it collapses and falls out. To install they can be pressed in with a decent vise if you don't have a press. Pay attention to the orientation, and either get the offset or centered e36 M3 bushings. To get the control arm into the bushing I use dish soap. You need to install them onto the control arm last so the car can be set down quickly while the soap is still slippery, then they will be clocked correctly at ride height.
E36 M3 bushings work with normal 3 series control arms?
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New rotors and hub centric rings ordered with the eBay 15% off today. Control arms, control arm bushings and lollis ordered thanks to @patsbimmer1.
This was definitely the best way to go. Might as well do it right and replace this stuff while everything is out and have easy access to it.
Made some good progress tonight. Struts, steering rack, and subframe dropped. Gonna clean up the subframe and paint it before it goes back in. Does this surface rust look concerning at all? Didn't break or crumble when I messed with it. Probably will wire wheel it, primer, and paint it. Same goes for the strut housings, it will be nice for everything to be cleaned and painted come time to reinstall.
Got some broken bolts to take care of now though. Broke one of the subframe bolts in the frame. Assuming I can use an EZ out or whatever that drill bit kit is. This shouldn't be that big of a deal with how space I have to work around it. I am ordering 4 new genuine BMW ones to replace them all.
The other ones are the ball joints from the lower control arms that have left some in the knuckle. I'm assuming I can use the same procedure for the subframe bolt by drilling it out or EZ outing it. Is this portion of the stud threaded, or should I be able to just smash these with a hammer to remove them?
Pulling the steering rack, the spline came out with the steering knuckle that goes through the fire wall. Should this have been tightened at some place in there? It looks like there isn't a bolt in any of the "clamps". Maybe they don't require one, but I thought the M3 had bolts that needed to be loosened on the knuckle to pull it?
On the same note, is the E30 steering knuckle the one to use for the swap? or the one off the ZF rack? Watching this video on a ZF rack swap, this dudes knuckle looks completed different than what I had. I bought the spacer kit, did I miss something else?
Will be pulling the sway bar from the subframe so I can paint the frame. Is there any issue with giving the sway bar another coat of paint? Will also adding to the subframe bolt order are new sway bar end links and bushings to do while its all out and available. I hear the bushings can be kind of bitch...
I appreciate all the help and feedback this forum has continued to provide.
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Does this surface rust look concerning at all? NAhhh wire wheel and paint it!
The other ones are the ball joints from the lower control arms that have left some in the knuckle. I'm assuming I can use the same procedure for the subframe bolt by drilling it out or EZ outing it. Is this portion of the stud threaded, or should I be able to just smash these with a hammer to remove them? Just use a punch and hammer it in the direction of the none existing control arm
Pulling the steering rack, the spline came out with the steering knuckle that goes through the fire wall. Should this have been tightened at some place in there? It looks like there isn't a bolt in any of the "clamps". Maybe they don't require one, but I thought the M3 had bolts that needed to be loosened on the knuckle to pull it? There should be a large nut under the dash that works as a looking collar similar to the one in the middle of the driveshaft. This has an internal taper that sinches the shaft into place. They tend to come loose over time.
On the same note, is the E30 steering knuckle the one to use for the swap? or the one off the ZF rack? Watching this video on a ZF rack swap, this dudes knuckle looks completed different than what I had. I bought the spacer kit, did I miss something else? Thats the one I have in my car. I think it just depends from rack to rack, shaft to shaft. HEH.
Will be pulling the sway bar from the subframe so I can paint the frame. Is there any issue with giving the sway bar another coat of paint? Will also adding to the subframe bolt order are new sway bar end links and bushings to do while its all out and available. I hear the bushings can be kind of bitch... paint away, and nah they shouldnt be too hard at all.
Hope that helps?!
https://www.instagram.com/_jdesigner_/ http://nevertoolow.tumblr.com/
🥳SOLD BMW E24 633CSI - BMW M30B32 🧪SOLD HCH ES9 - 1.3 LDA
👽BMW E30 325IC - Toyota 1JZ-GTE ⏰ HONDA EF9 CIVIC SI - JDM B18C5
☠️BMW E36 318i - Ford 5.0 FE302 🚴♂️ GT-Labomba - 26x2.75 Freeride
🤹♀️SOLD BMW E36/7 Z3 - BMW M54B25 🧓SOLD BMW E10 2002 - BMW M10M05 -
Surprised all those bolts snapped, everything on the front end was removed within the last 2 years and not too many miles driven.
As Jason described there is a 30mm collar nut that connects the upper and lower steering shafts. I remember not being able to get the lower knuckle to come off so I just loosened that nut.
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Hope that helps?!
Yes it does, thank you!
Surprised all those bolts snapped, everything on the front end was removed within the last 2 years and not too many miles driven.
As Jason described there is a 30mm collar nut that connects the upper and lower steering shafts. I remember not being able to get the lower knuckle to come off so I just loosened that nut.
I really had to fight those lower control arm ball joint bolts. Can I put some lithium grease on these to avoid something like this in the future?
Started cleaning up the subframe and sway bar for paint, hopefully doing that this weekend. Used a combination of a wire wheel and an angle grinder with a polishing wheel.
Got the broken subframe bolt, I'm surprised it worked to be honest. I figured I would have had to fight this thing a lot more.
Best way to loosen the locking collars on the strut housings? I was trying using a channel lock. Collars were pretty rusty so I hit them with a wire wheel to expose the threads and put some WD40 on there. Definitely gonna need my brothers help to stand on these while I try to break them loose, couldn't do it myself when I tried.
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Coilover collars?
WD40 wont help much for penetrate. Grease or anti-seize would help about 1% on those ball joints. I assume by the time you revisit those anything you put in there will be gone.
https://www.instagram.com/_jdesigner_/ http://nevertoolow.tumblr.com/
🥳SOLD BMW E24 633CSI - BMW M30B32 🧪SOLD HCH ES9 - 1.3 LDA
👽BMW E30 325IC - Toyota 1JZ-GTE ⏰ HONDA EF9 CIVIC SI - JDM B18C5
☠️BMW E36 318i - Ford 5.0 FE302 🚴♂️ GT-Labomba - 26x2.75 Freeride
🤹♀️SOLD BMW E36/7 Z3 - BMW M54B25 🧓SOLD BMW E10 2002 - BMW M10M05 -
Coilover collars?
WD40 wont help much for penetrate. Grease or anti-seize would help about 1% on those ball joints. I assume by the time you revisit those anything you put in there will be gone.
Apparently I didn't attach the picture.
It's number 6 in this diagram. That threaded collar thing that holds the strut in the strut housing. Not sure what the best way is to loosen this up. I've read pipe wrench or channel locks.
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