Joined the Club Today
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Started getting back to work with the decent weather this weekend. Car was in the middle stall of our garage and wanted to put it back in the third so it's out of the way when it's being worked on. Car was not moving when I was trying to pull it out of the garage. Assumed it was the parking brakes so pulled them off, incredibly rusty. Still was a little tough to push but moved it to the bottom of the driveway, went to push it back and it was like a tank. Talking with Ben, thought it could be the output flange nut on the trans being too tight. So disconnected the driveshaft at the bottom of the driveway, started raining which wasn't fun. Still wouldn't move. Gave up for the night and decided to try the next day.
Thought maybe the tires were flat, but they were only down a couple PSI. Figured I'd give the bottle caps a try for less rolling resistance? Idk, was out of ideas. I think the other wheels might just be rubbing as the car moved fine on the bottlecaps. Didn't look like anything was rubbing, but I guess will have to revisit.
It's chalked on the other side.
Bled the brakes, driver front bleeder stem is rounded off so can't do that one. Was debating just replacing the front calipers all together.
Time to bleed the clutch, so I will be taking all of these into account:
i've bled a few clutch slaves and/or clutch masters in my day. ive never bench bled anything, and I've never had a problem. you will need a helper though, and your process is correct. i did have one that seemed a bit soft after initial bleeding, so i used the gravity bleed method - i.e., top off the reservoir, crack the bleeder open and walk away, periodically checking it. the 2nd bleed attempt worked fine then.
B C said:
Bleed brakes first, then clutch. The clutch line is so high up on the brake fluid reservoir that the fluid level can drop during bleeding and introduce air into your clutch line. Service manuals would have you remove the clutch slave and pump the piston by hand to get the bleeding process started. That isn't fun because access to the slave cylinder isnt fun (at least on a G260 tilted 10 degrees for a swap) .
The way clutch bleeding works in my house is to pump the clutch pedal by hand (there is no return when there is no pressure) with the bleeder screw closed, crack the bleeder with the pedal down as you would expect to do.
Continue this process for about a half hour then start to worry that your clutch slave or clutch master are bad. You will eventually start to have some semblance of a clutch pedal but it will remain pathetic until you second guess the integrity of your cylinders a second time. A vacuum bleeder or pressure bleeder will speed things up. If after 45 minutes you hate your car and you have a second person helping, you can volunteer them to form their lips around the brake fluid reservoir and pressurize it with their damn lungs. im only half kidding, desperate times lead to desperate measures.
Bleeding the clutch can really suck. Expect to bleed it yearly for best clutch performance since it definitely accumulates some moisture and you will feel a nice difference.
Someone on here will probably say "if your car isnt a POS and you bleed it right, you shouldnt have to bleed it every year" well im here to tell you that I no longer have an E30 and I drive an automatic, so there. you've won.
I have had much luck with clutch system bleeding with patience, once you get it together and fluid in, pump the pedal by hand a few times every half hour when you walk by. If you watch bubbles will rise into the reservoir. Every time you pump it the bubbles make their way higher in the system. Do no press the pedal with the slave removed from the transmission though, disappointing results.
It sounds stupid but I have done several different car this way. Except my Volvo, that requires pressure flushing it backwards or you will never get all of the air out.
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did you narrow down which wheel or wheels was stuck when you jacked it up by trying them individually?
did you use lugs that are longer than oem? if they protrude too far into the rear hub they will hit things.
those aftermarket wheels certainly could be hitting your calipers on the outside of the caliper. some styles require spacers because centers/spokes are very flat.
a seized brake caliper would be very obvious.
slave cylinder would have nothing to do with anything. if you put the gear lever in neutral, the car is in neutral even if the cylinder is removed.
Dan
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did you narrow down which wheel or wheels was stuck when you jacked it up by trying them individually?
did you use lugs that are longer than oem? if they protrude too far into the rear hub they will hit things.
those aftermarket wheels certainly could be hitting your calipers on the outside of the caliper. some styles require spacers because centers/spokes are very flat.
a seized brake caliper would be very obvious.
slave cylinder would have nothing to do with anything. if you put the gear lever in neutral, the car is in neutral even if the cylinder is removed.
When it was stuck it was the rears that were being difficult, fronts would spin free.
I have a stud kit installed, I don't think it protrudes out of the back of the hub but I will have to double check.
I actually have some 5 mm spacers that I forgot to throw on.
I've been looking through your thread. I didn't see a post confirming. Are you going with obd2 or obd1? Reason I'm asking is because I'm highly considering s52 swapping an E30 once I find a decent shell and I want to run obd-2
It's an OBD2 ECU and harness. OBD1 intake manifold and fuel rail.
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sounds like you've narrowed it to the wheels since throwing on bottlecaps solved the issue.
1. wheels hitting caliper. you should see scratches on the back of the wheel if this was the case.
2. tires rubbing on the body. what are the full wheel and tire specs?
Dan
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sounds like you've narrowed it to the wheels since throwing on bottlecaps solved the issue.
1. wheels hitting caliper. you should see scratches on the back of the wheel if this was the case.
2. tires rubbing on the body. what are the full wheel and tire specs?
Wheels look fine on the inside of the barrels, I think there would have been a pretty audible grinding if they were rubbing.
Can't find the details right now, but I believe the wheels are 16x8, +20, with 215/40? Possibly 225, @GunMetalGrey might have to correct me on that one.
I was doing some looking and feeling around because I had assumed it was this issue before I put the bottle caps on and I'm guessing the rears are rubbing at the top of inside of tire.But, now that it's in, I can look into it further.
I really wish I would have taken today off of work to get stuff done on the car but I didn't think my parts were going to be. I took next Monday off and it's going to high 40's
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that size wheel/tire shouldnt rub anywhere in the rear.
Dan
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that size wheel/tire shouldnt rub anywhere in the rear.
Shouldn't at least. I have the exact wheel specs and 205/50r16 tires (though they run wide) and they clear with a mild roll.
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that size wheel/tire shouldnt rub anywhere in the rear.
Maybe I need to be looking at the fronts then. The rears had clearance in the rear by the fender.
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My 16x9's with a 20 offset touched the calipers up front on mine and I had to add a 5mm.
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My 16x9's with a 20 offset touched the calipers up front on mine and I had to add a 5mm.
I've got some 5 MM spacers so I'll have to toss those on and give them a try.
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Well, not so great news.
Went to bleed the clutch after work with the nice weather and shot the dowel out of the slave. Was pumping the clutch with my hand a couple times with the bleeder closed, then crawl under the car and open the bleeder valve. Maybe the third time doing this I hear a hollow ping sound. Assumed the worst and was correct after pulling the slave. I was able to pull the old one out after disconnecting the line and pulling the dowel the rest of the way out. But now I don't know if I can get a new one in. It's incredibly tight to begin with and was only barely able to pull the old one out.
Only hope really is that if the trans can be lowered some to somehow get a new one on. Or if there's some other way to snake it in there that I haven't tried. I don't want to even think about having to pull the trans.
I also tried fitting an exhaust from another S52 swapped E30. Y pipe piece fit on one down pipe but was the same diameter as the other. Hanger is also off from where it mounted to the body. Can't say I'm to surprised given how random these headers can be from the manufacture and that this exhaust was made to fit a car that wasn't mine. Will have to get one fabbed, so if you fab exhausts, let me know.
0 steps forward, 2 steps back...
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Took a day off work to work on the car.
Diff out.
Not terribly difficult but a ratcheting 19 mm spanner would have made life easy.
Bought some new hardware for it.
Tank out. Biggest pain in the ass was the center bolt. Believe it is supposed to thread into the frame, but the nut broke so I was able to use a 13 mm spanner to get it to brake but it was a bitch getting it to hold. Maybe it is supposed to be a nut, but it looks like the welds broke.
Assuming this is where one of the leaks was from.
Started moving over some of the stuff over from the old tank. I am trying to find this pipe on the far right, but can't seem to find a part number from Real OEM. It has a good amount surface corrosion but nothing that looks like it potentially leak. I would prefer to just replace it.
There is also another hard fuel line that does not run next to the feed, return, and brake line. It runs along the edge of the car that looks really corroded that I would like to replace but I can't find it on Real OEM either. Or I'm looking at it and don't notice. I didn't take a picture, but it hangs on these individual plastic hangers. What is this line?
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Check along the line from end to end and see if it's actually attached to anything. Could be someone replaced a line and just left the old rusted one in place rather than removing it.
I started chasing it up to the front but didn't go any further. It was attached the gas tank but I don't know what for. Fuel cooling line?
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the 3rd line running to the front of the car is the vent line running to the charcoal canister
Dan
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the 3rd line running to the front of the car is the vent line running to the charcoal canister
So is fluid actually passing through this? Or fumes mostly?
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So is fluid actually passing through this? Or fumes mostly?
Mostly fumes. Its just a vent for your Fumes/ air that has to escape somewhere when you fill your tank with gas.
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🥳SOLD BMW E24 633CSI - BMW M30B32 🧪SOLD HCH ES9 - 1.3 LDA
👽BMW E30 325IC - Toyota 1JZ-GTE ⏰ HONDA EF9 CIVIC SI - JDM B18C5
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Mostly fumes. Its just a vent for your Fumes/ air that has to escape somewhere when you fill your tank with gas.
to some extent, but i think the filler neck has a built-in vent for filling, due to the rate at which air has to escape.
the vent line works both ways for pressure relief. as fuel is drawn out by the pump, air also needs to get back into the tank otherwise you create a vacuum and make the car's fuel pump work harder than it has to. also, fuel expands with heat so the pressure has to get out as it expands. someone plugged the vent line in the engine bay on my e30. when I'd pop the filler cap to fill the tank, the seal would pop then hiss as air rushed into the tank because of the vaccuum.
there should be no fuel in the vent line.
Dan
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to some extent, but i think the filler neck has a built-in vent for filling, due to the rate at which air has to escape.
the vent line works both ways for pressure relief. as fuel is drawn out by the pump, air also needs to get back into the tank otherwise you create a vacuum and make the car's fuel pump work harder than it has to. also, fuel expands with heat so the pressure has to get out as it expands. someone plugged the vent line in the engine bay on my e30. when I'd pop the filler cap to fill the tank, the seal would pop then hiss as air rushed into the tank because of the vaccuum.
there should be no fuel in the vent line.
This.
https://www.instagram.com/_jdesigner_/ http://nevertoolow.tumblr.com/
🥳SOLD BMW E24 633CSI - BMW M30B32 🧪SOLD HCH ES9 - 1.3 LDA
👽BMW E30 325IC - Toyota 1JZ-GTE ⏰ HONDA EF9 CIVIC SI - JDM B18C5
☠️BMW E36 318i - Ford 5.0 FE302 🚴♂️ GT-Labomba - 26x2.75 Freeride
🤹♀️SOLD BMW E36/7 Z3 - BMW M54B25 🧓SOLD BMW E10 2002 - BMW M10M05
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