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[straight6pwr]

did you narrow down which wheel or wheels was stuck when you jacked it up by trying them individually?

did you use lugs that are longer than oem? if they protrude too far into the rear hub they will hit things.

those aftermarket wheels certainly could be hitting your calipers on the outside of the caliper. some styles require spacers because centers/spokes are very flat.

a seized brake caliper would be very obvious. 

slave cylinder would have nothing to do with anything. if you put the gear lever in neutral, the car is in neutral even if the cylinder is removed.

[Rekpoint]

I've been looking through your thread. I didn't see a post confirming. Are you going with obd2 or obd1? Reason I'm asking is because I'm highly considering s52 swapping an E30 once I find a decent shell and I want to run obd-2

[SteelBlue]

straight6pwr said:

did you narrow down which wheel or wheels was stuck when you jacked it up by trying them individually?

did you use lugs that are longer than oem? if they protrude too far into the rear hub they will hit things.

those aftermarket wheels certainly could be hitting your calipers on the outside of the caliper. some styles require spacers because centers/spokes are very flat.

a seized brake caliper would be very obvious. 

slave cylinder would have nothing to do with anything. if you put the gear lever in neutral, the car is in neutral even if the cylinder is removed. 

When it was stuck it was the rears that were being difficult, fronts would spin free.

I have a stud kit installed, I don't think it protrudes out of the back of the hub but I will have to double check.

I actually have some 5 mm spacers that I forgot to throw on.

Rekpoint said:

I've been looking through your thread. I didn't see a post confirming. Are you going with obd2 or obd1? Reason I'm asking is because I'm highly considering s52 swapping an E30 once I find a decent shell and I want to run obd-2

It's an OBD2 ECU and harness. OBD1 intake manifold and fuel rail.

[straight6pwr]

sounds like you've narrowed it to the wheels since throwing on bottlecaps solved the issue.

1. wheels hitting caliper. you should see scratches on the back of the wheel if this was the case.

2. tires rubbing on the body. what are the full wheel and tire specs?

[SteelBlue]

straight6pwr said:

sounds like you've narrowed it to the wheels since throwing on bottlecaps solved the issue.

1. wheels hitting caliper. you should see scratches on the back of the wheel if this was the case.

2. tires rubbing on the body. what are the full wheel and tire specs?

Wheels look fine on the inside of the barrels, I think there would have been a pretty audible grinding if they were rubbing.

Can't find the details right now, but I believe the wheels are 16x8, +20, with 215/40? Possibly 225,  @GunMetalGrey might have to correct me on that one.

I was doing some looking and feeling around because I had assumed it was this issue before I put the bottle caps on and I'm guessing the rears are rubbing at the top of inside of tire.But, now that it's in, I can look into it further.

I really wish I would have taken today off of work to get stuff done on the car but I didn't think my parts were going to be.  I took next Monday off and it's going to high 40's 

[straight6pwr]

that size wheel/tire shouldnt rub anywhere in the rear.

[m42b32]

straight6pwr said:

that size wheel/tire shouldnt rub anywhere in the rear.

Shouldn't at least. I have the exact wheel specs and 205/50r16 tires (though they run wide) and they clear with a mild roll.

[SteelBlue]

straight6pwr said:

that size wheel/tire shouldnt rub anywhere in the rear.

Maybe I need to be looking at the fronts then. The rears had clearance in the rear by the fender.

[Jdesign]

My 16x9's with a 20 offset touched the calipers up front on mine and I had to add a 5mm.

[SteelBlue]

Jdesign said:

My 16x9's with a 20 offset touched the calipers up front on mine and I had to add a 5mm.

I've got some 5 MM spacers so I'll have to toss those on and give them a try.

[SteelBlue]

Well, not so great news.

Went to bleed the clutch after work with the nice weather and shot the dowel out of the slave. Was pumping the clutch with my hand a couple times with the bleeder closed, then crawl under the car and open the bleeder valve. Maybe the third time doing this I hear a hollow ping sound. Assumed the worst and was correct after pulling the slave. I was able to pull the old one out after disconnecting the line and pulling the dowel the rest of the way out. But now I don't know if I can get a new one in. It's incredibly tight to begin with and was only barely able to pull the old one out.

Only hope really is that if the trans can be lowered some to somehow get a new one on. Or if there's some other way to snake it in there that I haven't tried. I don't want to even think about having to pull the trans.

I also tried fitting an exhaust from another S52 swapped E30. Y pipe piece fit on one down pipe but was the same diameter as the other. Hanger is also off from where it mounted to the body. Can't say I'm to surprised given how random these headers can be from the manufacture and that this exhaust was made to fit a car that wasn't mine. Will have to get one fabbed, so if you fab exhausts, let me know.

0 steps forward, 2 steps back...

[SteelBlue]

Took a day off work to work on the car.

Diff out.

Not terribly difficult but a ratcheting 19 mm spanner would have made life easy.

Bought some new hardware for it.

Tank out. Biggest pain in the ass was the center bolt. Believe it is supposed to thread into the frame, but the nut broke so I was able to use a 13 mm spanner to get it to brake but it was a bitch getting it to hold. Maybe it is supposed to be a nut, but it looks like the welds broke.

Assuming this is where one of the leaks was from.

Started moving over some of the stuff over from the old tank. I am trying to find this pipe on the far right, but can't seem to find a part number from Real OEM. It has a good amount surface corrosion but nothing that looks like it potentially leak. I would prefer to just replace it.

There is also another hard fuel line that does not run next to the feed, return, and brake line. It runs along the edge of the car that looks really corroded that I would like to replace but I can't find it on Real OEM either. Or I'm looking at it and don't notice. I didn't take a picture, but it hangs on these individual plastic hangers. What is this line?

[Boris3]

Check along the line from end to end and see if it's actually attached to anything. Could be someone replaced a line and just left the old rusted one in place rather than removing it.

[SteelBlue]

Boris3 said:

Check along the line from end to end and see if it's actually attached to anything. Could be someone replaced a line and just left the old rusted one in place rather than removing it.

I started chasing it up to the front but didn't go any further. It was attached the gas tank but I don't know what for. Fuel cooling line?

[straight6pwr]

the 3rd line running to the front of the car is the vent line running to the charcoal canister

[SteelBlue]

straight6pwr said:

the 3rd line running to the front of the car is the vent line running to the charcoal canister

So is fluid actually passing through this? Or fumes mostly?

[Jdesign]

SteelBlue said:

So is fluid actually passing through this? Or fumes mostly?

Mostly fumes. Its just a vent for your Fumes/ air that has to escape somewhere when you fill your tank with gas.

[straight6pwr]

Jdesign said:

Mostly fumes. Its just a vent for your Fumes/ air that has to escape somewhere when you fill your tank with gas. 

to some extent, but i think the filler neck has a built-in vent for filling, due to the rate at which air has to escape.

the vent line works both ways for pressure relief. as fuel is drawn out by the pump, air also needs to get back into the tank otherwise you create a vacuum and make the car's fuel pump work harder than it has to. also, fuel expands with heat so the pressure has to get out as it expands.  someone plugged the vent line in the engine bay on my e30. when I'd pop the filler cap to fill the tank, the seal would pop then hiss as air rushed into the tank because of the vaccuum.

there should be no fuel in the vent line.

[Jdesign]

straight6pwr said:

to some extent, but i think the filler neck has a built-in vent for filling, due to the rate at which air has to escape.

the vent line works both ways for pressure relief. as fuel is drawn out by the pump, air also needs to get back into the tank otherwise you create a vacuum and make the car's fuel pump work harder than it has to. also, fuel expands with heat so the pressure has to get out as it expands.  someone plugged the vent line in the engine bay on my e30. when I'd pop the filler cap to fill the tank, the seal would pop then hiss as air rushed into the tank because of the vaccuum.

there should be no fuel in the vent line.

This.

[SteelBlue]

straight6pwr said:

to some extent, but i think the filler neck has a built-in vent for filling, due to the rate at which air has to escape.

the vent line works both ways for pressure relief. as fuel is drawn out by the pump, air also needs to get back into the tank otherwise you create a vacuum and make the car's fuel pump work harder than it has to. also, fuel expands with heat so the pressure has to get out as it expands.  someone plugged the vent line in the engine bay on my e30. when I'd pop the filler cap to fill the tank, the seal would pop then hiss as air rushed into the tank because of the vaccuum.

there should be no fuel in the vent line.

Jdesign said:

This. 

Any chance at knowing the part number? I would like to replace it while also this is out to avoid any potential leaks.

I think it might be this one, 16131179784