Joined the Club Today
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+1 on replacing it.
Its really not that bad. Biggest challenge is getting those rusted nuts and bolts out that hold it in place. Once they are out your pretty much home free.
Good to know. I'll probably get an estimate of it when I do the clutch line.
After some debating, I think I'll probably wait to do the tank until spring. I bought a propane heater for the garage, but I think this job would be best done when it's not below 20 degrees out. I do plan to get the new booster in, bleed the brakes, and replace the rubber clutch line with the braided SS one I bought.
This might change when I can get under the car and get a better estimate of what the entire job will entail and what other tubing I will need to replace.
Also want to give my parents one of their stalls back.
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I recommend OEM fuel line, the stuff FCP sells (CRP) is good. It is much more flexible than parts store line that I have previously used. I had replaced fuel lines with parts store high pressure hose and it leaked after a year when it was really cold out. The OEM has much better flexibility and I've never had a problem with it. Buy 5 meters of 8x13 from FCP and send it.
32$ for 5m is only 2$ a foot. It's totally worth it to have a roll on hand.
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-fuel-line-13311722262-5m#desc
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Replaced the booster last night, picked one up from @m42b32. Used @snaprecommendation and pumped the master cylinder piston by hand a little bit to push some fluid through before attaching to the booster. Soft fuel lines are little long so I was able to detach the manifold but keep everything attached otherwise, just enough room to sneak the old booster out and the new one in.
Didn’t bleed the brakes because I wanted to wait until I replaced the clutch line to do so. Replaced the rubber clutch line with the condor speed shop braided stainless steel one. Never bled a clutch before, but I’m assuming it’s similar to the brakes with opening the bleeder valve on the slave and pumping the clutch pedal to push fluid through? Does it matter if this is done before or after the brakes?
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It's leaking coolant and power steering fluid. Neon green and red droplets on the oil pan. Knew about the coolant as when I had started it a couple times, there was a puddle up front. Haven't been able to figure out where it's coming from as the top looks dry, figure it coming from the coolant pipe somewhere. Power steering looks like it might be from the lower banjo bolt.
Issues for another time, trying to be in the garage as little as possible with how cold its going to start getting.
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It's leaking coolant and power steering fluid. Neon green and red droplets on the oil pan. Knew about the coolant as when I had started it a couple times, there was a puddle up front. Haven't been able to figure out where it's coming from as the top looks dry, figure it coming from the coolant pipe somewhere. Power steering looks like it might be from the lower banjo bolt.
Issues for another time, trying to be in the garage as little as possible with how cold its going to start getting.
Not horribly surprised to hear the coolant pipe started leaking. The opening in the timing cover for that was a bit corroded, and with it being cold leaks seem unsurprising. I put 2 new OEM o-rings on that to attempt a seal.
There may be residual power steering fluid on the top of the pan, it leaked quite a lot before I realized what was happening with the lines. I'd hold off on judgement on that one for a bit. I put new crush washers on the upper line, but I didn't take the lower line off due to it being attached already.
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i've bled a few clutch slaves and/or clutch masters in my day. ive never bench bled anything, and I've never had a problem. you will need a helper though, and your process is correct. i did have one that seemed a bit soft after initial bleeding, so i used the gravity bleed method - i.e., top off the reservoir, crack the bleeder open and walk away, periodically checking it. the 2nd bleed attempt worked fine then.
Dan
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Not horribly surprised to hear the coolant pipe started leaking. The opening in the timing cover for that was a bit corroded, and with it being cold leaks seem unsurprising. I put 2 new OEM o-rings on that to attempt a seal.
There may be residual power steering fluid on the top of the pan, it leaked quite a lot before I realized what was happening with the lines. I'd hold off on judgement on that one for a bit. I put new crush washers on the upper line, but I didn't take the lower line off due to it being attached already.
Recommendation for correcting? Some sort of larger fitting on the end?
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I have had much luck with clutch system bleeding with patience, once you get it together and fluid in, pump the pedal by hand a few times every half hour when you walk by. If you watch bubbles will rise into the reservoir. Every time you pump it the bubbles make their way higher in the system. Do no press the pedal with the slave removed from the transmission though, disappointing results.
It sounds stupid but I have done several different car this way. Except my Volvo, that requires pressure flushing it backwards or you will never get all of the air out.
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Was having nightmares that my scene points were too low, so I bought a couple E U R O items to mend that.
Got these at both a pretty good price.
I picked up one of those wiring adapters for 6 button OBC to euro clock to make life easier for my self. Clock gets power as the light for it comes on, but when I use the set buttons on the front of the clock, the hands don't turn. I don't think I am doing anything wrong as this is pretty straight forward process, but I was under the impression I was buying a working unit. I have messaged the seller already.
Are these repairable like the speedometers are?
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Was having nightmares that my scene points were too low, so I bought a couple E U R O items to mend that.
Got these at both a pretty good price.
I picked up one of those wiring adapters for 6 button OBC to euro clock to make life easier for my self. Clock gets power as the light for it comes on, but when I use the set buttons on the front of the clock, the hands don't turn. I don't think I am doing anything wrong as this is pretty straight forward process, but I was under the impression I was buying a working unit. I have messaged the seller already.
Are these repairable like the speedometers are?
I wired mine in using a 6 button OBC harness that I modified. I remeber it being straight forward without issues. I assume its repairable as there are guys that rebuild them like E3DAD.
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can you post a picture of the connection?
Assuming this is what you were referring to.
Tried wrapping one of the tails with some 50% tint I bought. Will have to see how this looks on the car, but it mainly just takes the brightness of the orange down. Otherwise I am thinking of going all red.
I also installed my hub adapter and steering wheel this weekend with the warm weather because I was looking for something to do.
Really think it pulls the interior together with the addition of the euro clock as well. Looking to pick up a new head unit next. But should probably buy a fuel tank or diff first.
Last sticker for the rear added.
Also, does anyone know what these displays in place of the switches are called and what they can be used for?
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cross check the adapter wiring colors = https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=94835&highlight=analog+clock&t=94835&highlight=analog+clock
if the hands work one way, and the lights work the other, the clock is functioning, just wired wrong IMO
the steering wheel looks great!
the 13.6 display is a voltmeter. it does only that. it came from jaywood or georgegraves on r3v https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=271232
Dan
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Another piece of the puzzle secured.
3.25 LSD. Needed for multiple reasons. First, so I’m not doing 60 MPH at 4500 RPMS. Second, and most importantly, so I can do mad clutch dumps and not do peg leg burnouts.
Bushing looks good on it, but am considering replacing that as well as doing so other refreshing while it’s out. Was thinking the gasket for the case at minimum. Anything else worth doing?
I thought the tint on the corners of the taillights was pretty minimal at first, but in comparison, it’s quite a bit darker. Think it looks really good IMO.
I can't wait to start fixing some of this rust.
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Replacing the output shaft seals on the diff might not be a bad idea while its out. Only saying that because mine have already begun to leak which is something I have to take care of sometime this winter.
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Tail light tint looks good!
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Started getting back to work with the decent weather this weekend. Car was in the middle stall of our garage and wanted to put it back in the third so it's out of the way when it's being worked on. Car was not moving when I was trying to pull it out of the garage. Assumed it was the parking brakes so pulled them off, incredibly rusty. Still was a little tough to push but moved it to the bottom of the driveway, went to push it back and it was like a tank. Talking with Ben, thought it could be the output flange nut on the trans being too tight. So disconnected the driveshaft at the bottom of the driveway, started raining which wasn't fun. Still wouldn't move. Gave up for the night and decided to try the next day.
Thought maybe the tires were flat, but they were only down a couple PSI. Figured I'd give the bottle caps a try for less rolling resistance? Idk, was out of ideas. I think the other wheels might just be rubbing as the car moved fine on the bottlecaps. Didn't look like anything was rubbing, but I guess will have to revisit.
It's chalked on the other side.
Bled the brakes, driver front bleeder stem is rounded off so can't do that one. Was debating just replacing the front calipers all together.
Time to bleed the clutch, so I will be taking all of these into account:
i've bled a few clutch slaves and/or clutch masters in my day. ive never bench bled anything, and I've never had a problem. you will need a helper though, and your process is correct. i did have one that seemed a bit soft after initial bleeding, so i used the gravity bleed method - i.e., top off the reservoir, crack the bleeder open and walk away, periodically checking it. the 2nd bleed attempt worked fine then.
B C said:
Bleed brakes first, then clutch. The clutch line is so high up on the brake fluid reservoir that the fluid level can drop during bleeding and introduce air into your clutch line. Service manuals would have you remove the clutch slave and pump the piston by hand to get the bleeding process started. That isn't fun because access to the slave cylinder isnt fun (at least on a G260 tilted 10 degrees for a swap) .
The way clutch bleeding works in my house is to pump the clutch pedal by hand (there is no return when there is no pressure) with the bleeder screw closed, crack the bleeder with the pedal down as you would expect to do.
Continue this process for about a half hour then start to worry that your clutch slave or clutch master are bad. You will eventually start to have some semblance of a clutch pedal but it will remain pathetic until you second guess the integrity of your cylinders a second time. A vacuum bleeder or pressure bleeder will speed things up. If after 45 minutes you hate your car and you have a second person helping, you can volunteer them to form their lips around the brake fluid reservoir and pressurize it with their damn lungs. im only half kidding, desperate times lead to desperate measures.
Bleeding the clutch can really suck. Expect to bleed it yearly for best clutch performance since it definitely accumulates some moisture and you will feel a nice difference.
Someone on here will probably say "if your car isnt a POS and you bleed it right, you shouldnt have to bleed it every year" well im here to tell you that I no longer have an E30 and I drive an automatic, so there. you've won.
I have had much luck with clutch system bleeding with patience, once you get it together and fluid in, pump the pedal by hand a few times every half hour when you walk by. If you watch bubbles will rise into the reservoir. Every time you pump it the bubbles make their way higher in the system. Do no press the pedal with the slave removed from the transmission though, disappointing results.
It sounds stupid but I have done several different car this way. Except my Volvo, that requires pressure flushing it backwards or you will never get all of the air out.
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did you narrow down which wheel or wheels was stuck when you jacked it up by trying them individually?
did you use lugs that are longer than oem? if they protrude too far into the rear hub they will hit things.
those aftermarket wheels certainly could be hitting your calipers on the outside of the caliper. some styles require spacers because centers/spokes are very flat.
a seized brake caliper would be very obvious.
slave cylinder would have nothing to do with anything. if you put the gear lever in neutral, the car is in neutral even if the cylinder is removed.
Dan
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