Joined the Club Today

[GunMetalGrey]

HipMF said:

Is the whole bearing still there, or just the inner race? Not that it matters much. I would just carefully cut it off. If you're patient, you can cut almost through the race and use a screwdriver or chisel to crack through the little bit of metal that's left and get it off without even a nick in the driveshaft.

Whole bearing is intact yet. 
Only trick to cutting it is that one side sits against a flat face, and trying not to cut that face is going to be tricky as it sits fully against the yoke face.

May try a shop with a press, and if the bearing breaks it will get the inner race cut.

[HipMF]

GunMetalGrey said:

Whole bearing is intact yet. 
Only trick to cutting it is that one side sits against a flat face, and trying not to cut that face is going to be tricky as it sits fully against the yoke face.

May try a shop with a press, and if the bearing breaks it will get the inner race cut. 

You can get tight to the sholder if you cut a spiral. Or just take it to a shop and let them eff it up so you don't have to

[straight6pwr]

maybe stating the obvious here, but have you tried heat? i'd get that bearing red hot

the 3 CSBs (e34 and e30) i've pulled in the last few years came off with a 3-jaw/impact gun

second idea = load up a 3 jaw puller to near the braking point then rap the bearing with as much force as you can to see if the strike pops it loose. autozone/advance auto have some pretty hefty 3-jaws you can rent.

hell just put the bearing against a steel vise or concrete and hit it to try and 'oval' it a bit. i can't see it hurting the steel spindle.

[Jdesign]

I have had this happen before. I ended up cutting into it with an angle grinder on both sides at an angle. Then used a chisel to pry it open and it came right off.

[GunMetalGrey]

Used the torch, stronger 3 jaw, and a 3lb sledge with a piece of bar to slam the thing off. 
It was quite stuck!

[Jdesign]

[HipMF]

Use the slide hammer. I've had good luck fucking shit up with that thing xD

[SteelBlue]

Car is back the garage.

Big thank you to @GunMetalGrey for all the help.

Still have some things to button up on it. Brake booster being the big one. In my stupidity/ignorance, I tore the diaphragm on the booster when I spun the "rod" in it. Have a couple options for purchasing a new one and should be ordered soon. So it has NO brakes right now.

Another issue is the hard fuel lines. It was going back and forth between leaking and not leaking. But when I was letting it idle today for a little it was dripping a bit. Not sure if this will be a spring job or if I'll do it this winter still.

I'm going to be replacing to the clutch line with a braided stainless steel one as the rubber one was getting pinched. Actually got so pinched that it locked the clutch pedal. Had a mini heart attack when we surmised that it might have been something with the clutch being installed wrong, thankfully it was not.

Hopefully Ben can add to this post as I know there will be a few things I will forget.

Probably needs a new tie rod on one side as the nut didn't get tightened all the way down when we were fixing the control arm. It popped out when it was getting moved, potentially damaging it, so for the peace of mind I will be replacing before any major driving.

Was told the weather should be pretty decent next weekend, so I can FINALLY wash and clean up the outside of the car which has been bothering me forever.

Any alignment tips for the hood? One side it lines up okay with the fender, other side has a bigger gap. Gonna be doing some tinkering with it.

[P_Roloff]

Might be the fenders, I think they have a little wiggle room when reinstalling so if they’ve ever been off that could be your problem.

[SteelBlue]

P_Roloff said:

Might be the fenders, I think they have a little wiggle room when reinstalling so if they’ve ever been off that could be your problem. 

Feel like it must be as there’s really no way to horizontally move the hood

[SteelBlue]

Bought a couple items I didn't mention in the last post.

Wanted to do something different than the usually ZHP knob, so I bought this Nardi Evolution when eBay was doing their 15% off sale.

Also bought a Euro clock for those sick scene points from a guy who was selling them on R3V for $50. Gonna buy the adapter from E30love.com to make it as seamless as possible.

Started to buy some things for the exhaust. Bought a 3" dual tip, black powder coated Vibrant streetpower muffler as well as a 3" Vibrant resonator.

Got a couple leads on a new booster to hopefully get on order to get some brakes in the car.

Saw a guy on R3v with a bracket for the OBDII diagnostic port, he might be making some with enough interest or I want to try and make one myself.

[straight6pwr]

you should be able to move the hood horizontally using the 4 points of attachment. look at the hinge brackets where they attach near the headlights. loosen the 3 bolts on the hood side on both and there will be plenty of wiggle. same goes for the other end - at the roller closers, you can loosen the 2 bolts on each side and wiggle them around a slight amount in each direction.  getting it all lined up may take several tries.  measure the gaps on both sides and find the difference. divide by 2. make alignment marks, then move the calculated amount. make alignment marks for both horizontal and front to back because it will slip when you loosen it all. 

and, depending on prior accidents/fender alignment, you may run out of adjustment before its perfect. but honestly, your current alignment is as good as 90% of e30s out there, and no one will notice but you.

[SteelBlue]

straight6pwr said:

you should be able to move the hood horizontally using the 4 points of attachment. look at the hinge brackets where they attach near the headlights. loosen the 3 bolts on the hood side on both and there will be plenty of wiggle. same goes for the other end - at the roller closers, you can loosen the 2 bolts on each side and wiggle them around a slight amount in each direction.  getting it all lined up may take several tries.  measure the gaps on both sides and find the difference. divide by 2. make alignment marks, then move the calculated amount. make alignment marks for both horizontal and front to back because it will slip when you loosen it all. 

and, depending on prior accidents/fender alignment, you may run out of adjustment before its perfect. but honestly, your current alignment is as good as 90% of e30s out there, and no one will notice but you. 

Unfortunate this chassis was in a wreck, it's pretty clean otherwise. Hopefully I can even it out a little bit.

[Jdesign]

I just loosen one bracket at a time and push it where I want it and snug it back down. Or you can just cut your hood in half when that doesnt work. 

[SteelBlue]

Planning to do the hard fuel lines this weekend. Any tips for doing this job? Shouldn't be to difficult as its just undoing soft lines on either end of the hard lines.

But I am told that the mounting bracket bolts/screws are rusted to shit, so that might make it difficult.

[HipMF]

Line wrenches. 11 and 13mm I believe...

[GunMetalGrey]

HipMF said:

Line wrenches. 11 and 13mm I believe...

You're thinking brake lines.

The screws under the chassis are phillips head, and usually rusted in place. You can bust the head off the screw to get the retaining plate out. You may also be able to bend it far enough to remove the lines, then bend it back up when the new lines are in (not sure on that one).

The hose clamps are likely rusted, but use a 6mm socket to attempt to pull them off without cutting them. 

You can also cheat and cut the soft fuel line and not have to take it off the hard-line that you are replacing anyway. 
Hoses always pull off well once you rotate them, so spin the hose before trying to pull. A pliers is usually required to get them to rotate first, or just slice the hose parallel to the center axis of the hard-line and it'll slip right off.

[SteelBlue]

GunMetalGrey said:

You're thinking brake lines.

The screws under the chassis are phillips head, and usually rusted in place. You can bust the head off the screw to get the retaining plate out. You may also be able to bend it far enough to remove the lines, then bend it back up when the new lines are in (not sure on that one).

The hose clamps are likely rusted, but use a 6mm socket to attempt to pull them off without cutting them. 

You can also cheat and cut the soft fuel line and not have to take it off the hard-line that you are replacing anyway. 
Hoses always pull off well once you rotate them, so spin the hose before trying to pull. A pliers is usually required to get them to rotate first, or just slice the hose parallel to the center axis of the hard-line and it'll slip right off.

I just placed an order for all new mounting hardware for the fuel lines from the dealer that I'll be picking up tomorrow.

Will cutting the soft fuel lines leave enough material to properly hook up the new hard lines?

[GunMetalGrey]

SteelBlue said:

I just placed an order for all new mounting hardware for the fuel lines from the dealer that I'll be picking up tomorrow.

Will cutting the soft fuel lines leave enough material to properly hook up the new hard lines?

The hardware screws into studs that are welded into the chassis, so unless you manage to get the screw remnants out you won't be able to get the new stuff in.

Replace the soft lines if you're replacing the hard lines. Parts store hoses work just fine. 
Make sure to get high pressure hose for the feed side (~$8/ft) vs the low pressure stuff at a buck or two a foot. 
At minimum replace the hoses by the fuel filter. The hoses up by the motor seemed okay.

[HipMF]

GunMetalGrey said:

You're thinking brake lines.

This. Still traumatized by those things. Can't move on...