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[SteelBlue]

Haven't done anything with the car for almost a week now, engine is just hanging in the bay not mounted.

Gotta try to get the motor mounts to work. Would the E34 M5 mounts be any more "forgiving" when it comes to mounting?

I have to figure out if I want to keep the car in the garage so I can work on it over the winter or move it to a storage unit. If I keep it in the garage, then the daily has to sit outside.

Not sure how much motivation I'll have when it's January...

[Jdesign]

Better think fast

[GunMetalGrey]

The E28 mounts are cheap and work just fine. 
If you want to try to get a rip in before winter I would order a set and toss em in.

[SteelBlue]

Jdesign said:

Better think fast

GunMetalGrey said:

The E28 mounts are cheap and work just fine. 
If you want to try to get a rip in before winter I would order a set and toss em in.

I don’t anticipate driving the car this year. But moving the car if I decided to store it somewhere would be easier if the motor and trans were in the car.

[MattY]

Chris and I realized we have a set of brand new 24v revshift poly mounts from the full kit we bought last year, normally they're like $130 but I'd let them go for $90 if you're interested.

[Jdesign]

MattY said:

Chris and I realized we have a set of brand new 24v revshift poly mounts from the full kit we bought last year, normally they're like $130 but I'd let them go for $90 if you're interested.

Sounds more like you guys had a plan all along....

[MattY]

Jdesign said:

Sounds more like you guys had a plan all along....

lol, in our defense they were locked away in my trunk for 6 months and totally forgotten about

[GunMetalGrey]

 

[straight6pwr]

i was really hoping the pic after the magician was going to have poorly photoshopped bunny, and no engine still.

also, i spy a mini keg

[Jdesign]

And for my next act ; "____________________"    - @GunMetalGrey

[GunMetalGrey]

straight6pwr said:

also, i spy a mini keg

Yeah that's my spare bolt bin, maybe someday it will become something cool!

[m42b32]

Did you ever get the condor mounts to sit flat or did you just crank down on them?

[GunMetalGrey]

m42b32 said:

Did you ever get the condor mounts to sit flat or did you just crank down on them?

I used a different set of condor ones that I had laying around. 

I think there was issues with header clearance that may not have been noticed before, as the headers are up against the body. This would certainly cause some issues with motor mounts not wanting to sit quite right.

[HipMF]

Do a burnout.

[GunMetalGrey]

HipMF said:

Do a burnout.

Gimme a few days

[Jdesign]

GunMetalGrey said:

Gimme a few days  hours

Fixed that for you. Better hurry up.

[SteelBlue]

Not technically first start. @GunMetalGrey working magic to @HipMF's ominous tones music

[GunMetalGrey]

Anyone ever have a CSB break a 3 jaw puller and make a 12ton HF press start leaking fluid past its seals? (Cylinder was leaking before as well in all fairness). It resulted in quite a lot of deflection of the press. 
Debating between taking it to a machine type shop and seeing if they can pop it off, or getting out the grinder and making a mess of it.

[HipMF]

GunMetalGrey said:

Anyone ever have a CSB break a 3 jaw puller and make a 12ton HF press start leaking fluid past its seals? (Cylinder was leaking before as well in all fairness). It resulted in quite a lot of deflection of the press. 
Debating between taking it to a machine type shop and seeing if they can pop it off, or getting out the grinder and making a mess of it. 

Is the whole bearing still there, or just the inner race? Not that it matters much. I would just carefully cut it off. If you're patient, you can cut almost through the race and use a screwdriver or chisel to crack through the little bit of metal that's left and get it off without even a nick in the driveshaft.

[GunMetalGrey]

HipMF said:

Is the whole bearing still there, or just the inner race? Not that it matters much. I would just carefully cut it off. If you're patient, you can cut almost through the race and use a screwdriver or chisel to crack through the little bit of metal that's left and get it off without even a nick in the driveshaft.

Whole bearing is intact yet. 
Only trick to cutting it is that one side sits against a flat face, and trying not to cut that face is going to be tricky as it sits fully against the yoke face.

May try a shop with a press, and if the bearing breaks it will get the inner race cut.