Joined the Club Today
-
The dealer is definitely faster and you don't have to pay shipping for anything
Plus you get a discount with a CCA membership that makes getting one more than worth it
Definitely will be doing this from now on. And I will have to look into that.
My current question/issue involves the throttle body.
Deleting coolant lines to the TB. Where do I need to block this off on the motor so that I don't have coolant pouring out somewhere? Is it the one of the openings on the head? Is this where I would run the E30 brown top coolant sensor? Car will not be run in cold enough temperatures for this to be useful and I want to delete/clean up as much unnecessary stuff as possible.
edit** Looks like bypassing it is the way to do it? Taken from this thread
CCV delete. I removed the diaphragm/cone circle thing(pictured below). Which leaves this hole in the bottom of the manifold(circled in red). I've watched this video which essentially shows plugging where this used to go in the manifold. Can I do this? Is there a "proper" way to do this?
Are yellow and blue lines in this related to CCV?
Can I run one of those small air filters on the crank case opening at the front of the motor? Or simply just run a hose to somewhere on the block where it will vent to the atmosphere? I was talking some of this over with @GunMetalGrey but he is not as familiar with OBD2 manifolds.
-
You can plug the hole in the head where the throttle body cooling line was with an oil drain plug and crush washer. M12x1.5 thread, same as the stock oil pan plug.
Why did you remove the CCV? It catches blowby oil and separates it from the air and routes it back to the oil pan via the dipstick. There is no gain by getting rid of it. You may even cause oil leaks because the crankcase is no longer under a slight vacuum but now has slight pressure. Vacuum in the crankcase is a good thing, in fact there are race engines that have a vacuum pump just to pull vacuum on the crankcase. https://www.gzmotorsports.com/SPVPK-LSX-vacuum-pump-kit.html
On the M50 it just routes the blowby into the intake manifold without a the CCV and a fair amount of oil gets run through the engine. The CCV is really just a factory installed catch can that automatically drains itself back to the sump.
-
you can either connect the two coolant lines together, or cap both ends. either is fine for the engine, as the stock system functions in both ways. personally, i hooked mine back up like stock, but added a manual valve in place of the thermostat that was in the intake box on the e36 chassis, that way i still have the option of running coolant through if the car gets driven when its cold outside. unnecessary? maybe. but even with a 1 in 1,000 chance I'd experience intake icing, i'd rather be safe than sorry.
another vote for keeping the CCV. if its cost of replacement you're concerned with, you can fit the smaller, cheaper e39 m5 ccv in its place. these engines burn up enough oil already, do you really want to burn through more unnecessarily?
Dan
-
So after doing some more reading and taking your suggestions into consideration, I will keep the CCV and just order new hoses for it.
Is there any issue with the hose that drains into the dipstick now that the oil pan is in the front as opposed to the back? Or should routing the house really not be that big of an issue? I'm having a hard time imagining what the distance between stock S52 oil pan location and M50 oil pan location would be.
Hose #6 in the below diagram. Which is this part 11151740393
-
Was waiting on that brake line for what felt like forever. Finally got it, bent, installed. Brake booster bake on, interior back together.
I still need to attach the spring to the brake pedal as I forgot to while I was reinstalling everything.
Motor mount arm clearanced for manifold.
Got the rear main seal and housing gasket done. Forgot to put gasket maker on when I put the housing back on so I pulled it off and redid it.
Don't have much scarp metal laying around. Did have like 4 T's for some reason. It worked though. Flywheel bolts loctited and torqued to spec.
Clutch and pressure plated installed. This deeper portion of the garage makes the perfect little area to work.
Before I put the trans on I wanted to test fit the motor in the bay to check for any clearance issues. Exhaust manifold appeared to clear the heat shielding on the firewall and around the LCAB.
Went to mock up the trans brace as I thought the ZF trans brace was the one I used(read it incorrectly on a post), but it's actually the stock 325 manual one. So I'm gonna have to buy one of those unless someone on here has one they can sell.
Motor is ready to go in. Wondering if there is anything else that I should install now while the motor is out? I have all the accessories installed on the front. Manifold is off, wiring harness is off, none of the cooling plumbing is in. I still need to modify the coolant pipe and the dipstick yet.
As soon as I get a trans brace I'll get the motor in.
Also, when installing the starter, is there any lining up of the teeth that needs to be done? It seemed to go in rather easy. I bought the S52 flywheel/clutch kit and it looked like the flywheel was about as big as it could be in the bell housing. Just really don't want to get the motor in and then find out the starter won't engage.
-
I have a trans brace sitting in a box around here I am not gonna be using anytime soon.
-
I have a trans brace sitting in a box around here I am not gonna be using anytime soon.
Sent you a PM
-
Also, when installing the starter, is there any lining up of the teeth that needs to be done? It seemed to go in rather easy. I bought the S52 flywheel/clutch kit and it looked like the flywheel was about as big as it could be in the bell housing. Just really don't want to get the motor in and then find out the starter won't engage.
Starter will just slip in, the gear extends out when the starter is engaged.
Ensure the starter you are using came from something with the same size flywheel as what you are using. So if the starter was from the s52 manual (240mm clutch) and you put a clutch on for a late model 328 or M3 you're good to go! -
Starter will just slip in, the gear extends out when the starter is engaged.
Ensure the starter you are using came from something with the same size flywheel as what you are using. So if the starter was from the s52 manual (240mm clutch) and you put a clutch on for a late model 328 or M3 you're good to go!I'll have to double check, but the clutch kit I bought was for an E36 M3.
-
Would it be advisable to install the headers before putting the motor in? I know it's a huge benefit doing it that way on an N54...
-
Would it be advisable to install the headers before putting the motor in? I know it's a huge benefit doing it that way on an N54...
I would highly recommend putting the exhaust manifolds or headers on before putting the engine in.
Also this if you hadn't planned on it.
You have to get the sway bar out and the control arm bushings unbolted if you want to put the headers on with the motor in the car, and I can't come up with a scenario where that is more convenient. -
Would it be advisable to install the headers before putting the motor in? I know it's a huge benefit doing it that way on an N54...
I would highly recommend putting the exhaust manifolds or headers on before putting the engine in.
Also this if you hadn't planned on it.
You have to get the sway bar out and the control arm bushings unbolted if you want to put the headers on with the motor in the car, and I can't come up with a scenario where that is more convenient.Headers are on the motor. I installed them before I put the trans on because I wanted to test fit the motor in the engine bay to test for exhaust clearance.
Grabbing the trans brace from @AsparagusMike tomorrow and then I am going to work on getting it into the car.
-
24 valve guys here, should I stay OBD2 or convert to OBD1?
OBD2 pros:
Already have the harness, sensors, everything etc.
Better diagnosing abilities?
OBD2 cons:
Seemingly more complicated for the vast variety of things.
Need to run a separate fuel pressure regulator
No one local knows about OBD2 swaps
Motor harness is old, greasy, and kind of torn and beat up in places
OBD1 pros:
Theoretically more simple? FPR built into fuel rail
M50 manifold. I have this piece already.
I have the red label 413 DME I believe that works with this setup plus a chip? Potentially misunderstood from conversation with @AsparagusMike
LOCAL SUPPORT, this is big because I am a moron.
OBD1 cons:
I have to buy a new harness, sensors, fuel rail, and other things I might be unaware of/need to research?
Would need to run catch can(or just burn a ton of oil)
Harder to diagnose things(purely anecdotal based on reading other forum posts)
I think I am past naively believing this car will still run this season. I mean it could and I would love for it to, but I'm getting to the point where I need to make a decision on the above situation. Motor is ready to go in, so the wiring harness would be the next step in this process.
Need some opinions.
-
OBD2. The diagnosis is so much better and the tuning is available if you ever need that. OBD1 is old stuff, it is harder to diagnose and has less fault detection. With OBD2 things can be coded out like the SAP pump etc. I think the best is OBD2 with an OBD1 intake manifold. Especially if you have all of the OBD2 sensors and harness already.
I have 2 OBD1 M50 engines and I will be the first to say that saying OBD1 is simpler and better is on par with someone saying carburetors are simpler and better. When in reality jetting carbs and changing things is not simple at all, and the driveablity is not nearly as good. For example to start my LandCruiser (factory carbureted setup) You have to pull the choke knob out, pump the gas 3-5 times depending on ambient temperature. Then start it. It needs at least 30 seconds of warming up to run properly. OBD1 M50 engines have goofy quirks too like don't make the mistake of starting it and moving 10 feet and shutting it off that quickly, next time it will crank forever to get started again.
-
Seems slightly dubious, maybe I can learn something here as well...
With OBD2 things can be coded out like the SAP pump etc.
With ODB1 there is no SAP or EWS, and therefore nothing needs to be done to make it work. Obviously, if you make changes to the engine that require tuning changes, you need to update the tune, regardless of which system you use.
saying OBD1 is simpler and better is on par with someone saying carburetors are simpler and better.
sort of... Maybe I'm mistaken, but I was under the impression that all OBD2 cars have EWS, and therefore require that some magic is done with the ECU in order to get it to run, whereas OBD1 is plug-and-play.
-
Seems slightly dubious, maybe I can learn something here as well...
With ODB1 there is no SAP or EWS, and therefore nothing needs to be done to make it work. Obviously, if you make changes to the engine that require tuning changes, you need to update the tune, regardless of which system you use.
sort of... Maybe I'm mistaken, but I was under the impression that all OBD2 cars have EWS, and therefore require that some magic is done with the ECU in order to get it to run, whereas OBD1 is plug-and-play.
Here is some excellent information about how the system works. Read the PDF that he links to. https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1499812-The-OFFICIAL-EWS-I-EWS-II-delete-bypass-and-information-thread!
The EWS II bypass is just a matter of:
Sending your ECU to have it programmed out. Cost $109 (you could also pay more for other tuning options all at the same time). https://www.kasselperformance.com/product/bmw-e36e39-m52-2-8l-ms41-1-tuning/
Installing the original parts, chip key, transponder ring, key under the dash somewhere so when it attempts to look for the key it is successfully found. Cost varies depending on how many of the parts you already have.
If you collect all of the EWS parts from various cars that is ok too and you can realign the EWS module to the DME yourself.
Personally I would pay to have EWS and SAP deleted and plug it in and go. It's not that scary. The reason it can't be hardwired out of the system is that the DME and EWS module communicate digitally not with a simple high low signal.
Hello! It looks like you're interested in this conversation, but you don't have an account yet.
Getting fed up of having to scroll through the same posts each visit? When you register for an account, you'll always come back to exactly where you were before, and choose to be notified of new replies (either via email, or push notification). You'll also be able to save bookmarks and upvote posts to show your appreciation to other community members.
With your input, this post could be even better 💗
Register Login