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Joined the Club Today

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  • jc43089J
    jc43089J
    jc43089
    wrote on last edited by
    #236

    Lookin purdy!

    I usually remove/install the engine with the wiring harness installed.  The beauty of the BMW design is that the wiring harness is easily unplugged from the body and can come out with the engine.  It is easier to get everything connected properly out of the car.

    2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
    3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
    '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

    '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

    '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
    '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
    '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

    1 Reply Last reply
    0
    • GunMetalGreyG
      GunMetalGreyG
      GunMetalGrey
      wrote on last edited by
      #237

      I usually drop them in without the harness or intake manifold lately. 
      There aren't that many connections and it makes getting them in and hooked up quite easy.

      ...

      1 Reply Last reply
      0
      • jc43089J
        jc43089J
        jc43089
        wrote on last edited by
        #238

        I should have specified, harness installed but not intake manifold.  Always install the exhaust manifolds before, it is a pain to install after the engine is in.

        2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
        3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
        '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

        '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

        '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
        '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
        '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

        1 Reply Last reply
        0
        • SteelBlueS
          SteelBlueS
          SteelBlue
          wrote on last edited by
          #239

          Been waiting on this hardline for almost 2 weeks now from ECS. On their site it said ships in 3 days. Was then told after ordering it has to come from Germany so it will be like a week. Just asked again today and they said it would take 3 weeks and it hasn't even shipped.

          Cancelled and ordered through the dealer which will be 1 week from today. Taking @GunMetalGrey advice on that type of stuff from now on.

          1 Reply Last reply
          0
          • EarlE
            EarlE
            Earl
            wrote on last edited by
            #240

            The dealer is definitely faster and you don't have to pay shipping for anything👍

            museum sig 2earl.jpg

            1 Reply Last reply
            2
            • EarlE
              EarlE
              Earl
              wrote on last edited by
              #241

              Plus you get a discount with a CCA membership that makes getting one more than worth it

              museum sig 2earl.jpg

              1 Reply Last reply
              2
              • SteelBlueS
                SteelBlueS
                SteelBlue
                wrote on last edited by
                #242

                Earl said:

                The dealer is definitely faster and you don't have to pay shipping for anything👍

                Earl said:

                Plus you get a discount with a CCA membership that makes getting one more than worth it

                Definitely will be doing this from now on. And I will have to look into that.

                My current question/issue involves the throttle body.

                Deleting coolant lines to the TB. Where do I need to block this off on the motor so that I don't have coolant pouring out somewhere? Is it the one of the openings on the head? Is this where I would run the E30 brown top coolant sensor? Car will not be run in cold enough temperatures for this to be useful and I want to delete/clean up as much unnecessary stuff as possible.

                edit** Looks like bypassing it is the way to do it? Taken from this thread

                image.png

                image.png

                CCV delete. I removed the diaphragm/cone circle thing(pictured below). Which leaves this hole in the bottom of the manifold(circled in red). I've watched this video which essentially shows plugging where this used to go in the manifold. Can I do this? Is there a "proper" way to do this?

                RNuGDj4.jpg

                CZhnujF.jpg?2

                Are yellow and blue lines in this related to CCV?

                Can I run one of those small air filters on the crank case opening at the front of the motor? Or simply just run a hose to somewhere on the block where it will vent to the atmosphere? I was talking some of this over with @GunMetalGrey but he is not as familiar with OBD2 manifolds.

                1 Reply Last reply
                0
                • jc43089J
                  jc43089J
                  jc43089
                  wrote on last edited by
                  #243

                  You can plug the hole in the head where the throttle body cooling line was with an oil drain plug and crush washer.  M12x1.5 thread, same as the stock oil pan plug.

                  Why did you remove the CCV?  It catches blowby oil and separates it from the air and routes it back to the oil pan via the dipstick.  There is no gain by getting rid of it.  You may even cause oil leaks because the crankcase is no longer under a slight vacuum but now has slight pressure.  Vacuum in the crankcase is a good thing, in fact there are race engines that have a vacuum pump just to pull vacuum on the crankcase.  https://www.gzmotorsports.com/SPVPK-LSX-vacuum-pump-kit.html

                  On the M50 it just routes the blowby into the intake manifold without a the CCV and a fair amount of oil gets run through the engine.  The CCV is really just a factory installed catch can that automatically drains itself back to the sump.

                  2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
                  3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
                  '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

                  '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

                  '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
                  '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
                  '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

                  1 Reply Last reply
                  1
                  • straight6pwrS
                    straight6pwrS
                    straight6pwr
                    wrote on last edited by
                    #244

                    you can either connect the two coolant lines together, or cap both ends. either is fine for the engine, as the stock system functions in both ways. personally, i hooked mine back up like stock, but added a manual valve in place of the thermostat that was in the intake box on the e36 chassis, that way i still have the option of running coolant through if the car gets driven when its cold outside. unnecessary? maybe. but even with a 1 in 1,000 chance I'd experience intake icing, i'd rather be safe than sorry.

                    another vote for keeping the CCV. if its cost of replacement you're concerned with, you can fit the smaller, cheaper e39 m5 ccv in its place. these engines burn up enough oil already, do you really want to burn through more unnecessarily?

                    Dan
                    yajsYRL.jpg.e5f350b4dfe961d76ac8b32efce2e1a6.jpg

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                    0
                    • jc43089J
                      jc43089J
                      jc43089
                      wrote on last edited by
                      #245

                      I have even considered how to add a CCV to my OBD1 car...  Then I wouldn't have to add a quart of oil every 1000 miles and there wouldn't be a pool of oil in the intake manifold.

                      2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
                      3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
                      '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

                      '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

                      '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
                      '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
                      '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

                      1 Reply Last reply
                      0
                      • SteelBlueS
                        SteelBlueS
                        SteelBlue
                        wrote on last edited by
                        #246

                        So after doing some more reading and taking your suggestions into consideration, I will keep the CCV and just order new hoses for it.

                        Is there any issue with the hose that drains into the dipstick now that the oil pan is in the front as opposed to the back? Or should routing the house really not be that big of an issue? I'm having a hard time imagining what the distance between stock S52 oil pan location and M50 oil pan location would be.

                        Hose #6 in the below diagram. Which is this part 11151740393

                        image.png

                        1 Reply Last reply
                        0
                        • jc43089J
                          jc43089J
                          jc43089
                          wrote on last edited by
                          #247

                          I don't think the dipstick location should matter.  You might have to fabricate a support for it.  Also compare lengths to make sure it will indicate the correct amount of oil.

                          2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
                          3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
                          '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

                          '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

                          '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
                          '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
                          '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

                          1 Reply Last reply
                          0
                          • SteelBlueS
                            SteelBlueS
                            SteelBlue
                            wrote on last edited by
                            #248

                            Was waiting on that brake line for what felt like forever. Finally got it, bent, installed. Brake booster bake on, interior back together.

                            JKbkZbw.jpg

                            FMne9Zm.jpg

                            I still need to attach the spring to the brake pedal as I forgot to while I was reinstalling everything.

                            Motor mount arm clearanced for manifold.

                            V3UAVV8.jpg

                            Got the rear main seal and housing gasket done. Forgot to put gasket maker on when I put the housing back on so I pulled it off and redid it.

                            s7pTjjf.jpg

                            Don't have much scarp metal laying around. Did have like 4 T's for some reason. It worked though. Flywheel bolts loctited and torqued to spec.

                            amCX3M1.jpg

                            Clutch and pressure plated installed. This deeper portion of the garage makes the perfect little area to work.

                            2dxmjYM.jpg

                            Before I put the trans on I wanted to test fit the motor in the bay to check for any clearance issues. Exhaust manifold appeared to clear the heat shielding on the firewall and around the LCAB.

                            Went to mock up the trans brace as I thought the ZF trans brace was the one I used(read it incorrectly on a post), but it's actually the stock 325 manual one. So I'm gonna have to buy one of those unless someone on here has one they can sell.

                            Motor is ready to go in. Wondering if there is anything else that I should install now while the motor is out? I have all the accessories installed on the front. Manifold is off, wiring harness is off, none of the cooling plumbing is in. I still need to modify the coolant pipe and the dipstick yet. 

                            As soon as I get a trans brace I'll get the motor in.

                            KCTwsJ3.jpg

                            Also, when installing the starter, is there any lining up of the teeth that needs to be done? It seemed to go in rather easy. I bought the S52 flywheel/clutch kit and it looked like the flywheel was about as big as it could be in the bell housing. Just really don't want to get the motor in and then find out the starter won't engage.

                            1 Reply Last reply
                            1
                            • AsparagusMikeA
                              AsparagusMikeA
                              AsparagusMike
                              wrote on last edited by
                              #249

                              I have a trans brace sitting in a box around here I am not gonna be using anytime soon.

                              1 Reply Last reply
                              0
                              • SteelBlueS
                                SteelBlueS
                                SteelBlue
                                wrote on last edited by
                                #250

                                AsparagusMike said:

                                I have a trans brace sitting in a box around here I am not gonna be using anytime soon.

                                Sent you a PM

                                1 Reply Last reply
                                0
                                • GunMetalGreyG
                                  GunMetalGreyG
                                  GunMetalGrey
                                  wrote on last edited by
                                  #251

                                  SteelBlue said:

                                  Also, when installing the starter, is there any lining up of the teeth that needs to be done? It seemed to go in rather easy. I bought the S52 flywheel/clutch kit and it looked like the flywheel was about as big as it could be in the bell housing. Just really don't want to get the motor in and then find out the starter won't engage.

                                  Starter will just slip in, the gear extends out when the starter is engaged. 
                                  Ensure the starter you are using came from something with the same size flywheel as what you are using. So if the starter was from the s52 manual (240mm clutch) and you put a clutch on for a late model 328 or M3 you're good to go!

                                  ...

                                  1 Reply Last reply
                                  0
                                  • SteelBlueS
                                    SteelBlueS
                                    SteelBlue
                                    wrote on last edited by
                                    #252

                                    GunMetalGrey said:

                                    Starter will just slip in, the gear extends out when the starter is engaged. 
                                    Ensure the starter you are using came from something with the same size flywheel as what you are using. So if the starter was from the s52 manual (240mm clutch) and you put a clutch on for a late model 328 or M3 you're good to go!

                                    I'll have to double check, but the clutch kit I bought was for an E36 M3.

                                    1 Reply Last reply
                                    0
                                    • suspencefulS
                                      suspencefulS
                                      suspenceful
                                      wrote on last edited by
                                      #253

                                      Would it be advisable to install the headers before putting the motor in? I know it's a huge benefit doing it that way on an N54...

                                      🎬 YouTube channel (60K+ subs): youtube.com/jakespence135
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                                      0
                                      • jc43089J
                                        jc43089J
                                        jc43089
                                        wrote on last edited by
                                        #254

                                        I would highly recommend putting the exhaust manifolds or headers on before putting the engine in.

                                        2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
                                        3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
                                        '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

                                        '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

                                        '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
                                        '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
                                        '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

                                        1 Reply Last reply
                                        0
                                        • GunMetalGreyG
                                          GunMetalGreyG
                                          GunMetalGrey
                                          wrote on last edited by
                                          #255

                                          suspenceful said:

                                          Would it be advisable to install the headers before putting the motor in? I know it's a huge benefit doing it that way on an N54...

                                          jc43089 said:

                                          I would highly recommend putting the exhaust manifolds or headers on before putting the engine in.

                                          Also this if you hadn't planned on it.
                                          You have to get the sway bar out and the control arm bushings unbolted if you want to put the headers on with the motor in the car, and I can't come up with a scenario where that is more convenient.

                                          ...

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