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Joined the Club Today

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  • straight6pwrS
    straight6pwrS
    straight6pwr
    wrote on last edited by
    #223

    if loosening the bolts that hold the bracket dont give you enough adjustment, you could slot the holes in the bracket to add up/down adjustment - they are plastic.

    Dan
    yajsYRL.jpg.e5f350b4dfe961d76ac8b32efce2e1a6.jpg

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    0
    • SteelBlueS
      SteelBlueS
      SteelBlue
      wrote on last edited by
      #224

      straight6pwr said:

      if loosening the bolts that hold the bracket dont give you enough adjustment, you could slot the holes in the bracket to add up/down adjustment - they are plastic. 

      Slot the holes in the bracket, or the body/valence of the car? This is a good idea and think I might try this tomorrow after work.

      I'm gonna paint the old kidneys black, liking how this all black looks. Also kind of makes me reconsider smoked headlights.

      image.png

      1 Reply Last reply
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      • EarlE
        EarlE
        Earl
        wrote on last edited by
        #225

        I have a Broadway mirror in my drift car and it's super nice to drive with

        I have it adjusted so that I never have to turn my head behind me for the passenger side to check the blind spot

        That bumper also looks like now it still fits better than 90% of the e30's I've ever witnessed in person lol

        museum sig 2earl.jpg

        1 Reply Last reply
        2
        • GunMetalGreyG
          GunMetalGreyG
          GunMetalGrey
          wrote on last edited by
          #226

          Reach inside the wheel well to the back side of the bumper mtg bracket that you are talking about slotting, there are two 10mm (8mm?) head bolts, loosen those up a couple turns and then move the corner of the bumper to where you want it. Hold the bumper there and tighten the screws. 
          Profit! 

          I do like the black / calypso that you posted above!

          ...

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          • SteelBlueS
            SteelBlueS
            SteelBlue
            wrote on last edited by
            #227

            GunMetalGrey said:

            Reach inside the wheel well to the back side of the bumper mtg bracket that you are talking about slotting, there are two 10mm (8mm?) head bolts, loosen those up a couple turns and then move the corner of the bumper to where you want it. Hold the bumper there and tighten the screws. 
            Profit! 

            I do like the black / calypso that you posted above!

            This is a good idea as well. I had tried to fiddle with the bracket when the bumper was not attached, but doing this seems like it might be worth the try before slotting the bracket.

            Kind of along the lines of what @Earl was saying, it’s decent fitment, but I would like to try and improve it.

            1 Reply Last reply
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            • YoungCRY
              YoungCRY
              YoungCR
              wrote on last edited by
              #228

              First post was feb 2015 but the original motor blew up in May 2015 and it sat for ~2 years. Matt really only drove it last summer. ODO does not work. Probably didn’t even put 5k on the car as he works from home.

              Chris Young
              BMWCCA #458972
              1986 528e/5  | 1994 530i/5 | 1995 540i/6 | 2013 X5 35d | 1998 C1500 Suburban | 1995 K2500 Suburban

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              0
              • straight6pwrS
                straight6pwrS
                straight6pwr
                wrote on last edited by
                #229

                SteelBlue said:

                Slot the holes in the bracket, or the body/valence of the car? This is a good idea and think I might try this tomorrow after work.

                i guess either would suffice, but i suspect the brackets will be an easier task (plastic vs. layers of sheet metal)

                based on a photo of the bracket, it looks plausible, although i don't recall the hardware that is used here.

                index.jpg

                Dan
                yajsYRL.jpg.e5f350b4dfe961d76ac8b32efce2e1a6.jpg

                1 Reply Last reply
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                • JdesignJ
                  JdesignJ
                  Jdesign
                  wrote on last edited by
                  #230

                  That all depends if its OEM hardware or not, and whether anything has been tweak previously. That bumper seems to fit pretty well as is. There should be some adjustment in the brackets as mentioned but I would make sure you have enough room and its not under tension when you adjust it. If it is, you risk it just shifting back into its happy place after the first jolt down the road.

                  Check this out as far as adjusting:

                  http://e30.bmwdiy.info/bumper-adjust/index.html 

                  Also I have a 280-300mm Broadway convex mirrors in most of my cars including my Dually and I love them. I have had them since my JDM high school days and it just feels weird not having one. I actually prefer a Broadway over a wink mirror now too considering I have one of those in my E36. The visibility and division in the panes of glass just isnt the same as seeing it all at once in one focal location.

                  SumBunny.jpg

                  https://www.instagram.com/_jdesigner_/                                          http://nevertoolow.tumblr.com/

                  🥳SOLD BMW E24 633CSI - BMW M30B32                                          🧪SOLD HCH  ES9 - 1.3 LDA
                  👽BMW E30 325IC - Toyota 1JZ-GTE                                                     ⏰ HONDA EF9 CIVIC SI - JDM B18C5
                  ☠️BMW E36 318i - Ford 5.0 FE302                                                         🚴‍♂️ GT-Labomba - 26x2.75 Freeride
                  🤹‍♀️SOLD BMW E36/7 Z3 - BMW M54B25                                                🧓SOLD BMW E10 2002 - BMW M10M05

                  1 Reply Last reply
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                  • GunMetalGreyG
                    GunMetalGreyG
                    GunMetalGrey
                    wrote on last edited by
                    #231

                    straight6pwr said:

                    i guess either would suffice, but i suspect the brackets will be an easier task (plastic vs. layers of sheet metal)

                    based on a photo of the bracket, it looks plausible, although i don't recall the hardware that is used here.

                    index.jpg

                    Can't slot this, as it's got a metal clip that goes around those holes that has the thread for the bolt that goes through the body.
                    That was a confusing sentence....

                    At any rate, the link @Jdesign posted is what you need in life.

                    ...

                    1 Reply Last reply
                    1
                    • SteelBlueS
                      SteelBlueS
                      SteelBlue
                      wrote on last edited by
                      #232

                      Wiring harnesses are scary. What is the recommendation for mating the E36 motor harness to the E30 body harness? I am just thinking about getting this AKG adapter.

                      Or if you have experience doing this and want to hang out at my parents house for a night/afternoon, I'll pay you.

                      My brake line should be here tomorrow which means that I can put the motor in hopefully this week.

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                      • GunMetalGreyG
                        GunMetalGreyG
                        GunMetalGrey
                        wrote on last edited by
                        #233

                        SteelBlue said:

                        Wiring harnesses are scary. What is the recommendation for mating the E36 motor harness to the E30 body harness? I am just thinking about getting this AKG adapter.

                        Or if you have experience doing this and want to hang out at my parents house for a night/afternoon, I'll pay you.

                        My brake line should be here tomorrow which means that I can put the motor in hopefully this week.

                        Meh, it's only 7 or so wires that you need to bridge. 
                        Don't trust wire colors, only trust pin numbers. Two ETM's, some crimps, wire stripper/cutter, and you're good to go!

                        ...

                        1 Reply Last reply
                        0
                        • JdesignJ
                          JdesignJ
                          Jdesign
                          wrote on last edited by
                          #234

                          SteelBlue said:

                          Wiring harnesses are scary.

                          You mean "deceiving".

                          It looks worse than it is. Just take some tape and label each wire before you begin, before you know it you will be done.

                          SumBunny.jpg

                          https://www.instagram.com/_jdesigner_/                                          http://nevertoolow.tumblr.com/

                          🥳SOLD BMW E24 633CSI - BMW M30B32                                          🧪SOLD HCH  ES9 - 1.3 LDA
                          👽BMW E30 325IC - Toyota 1JZ-GTE                                                     ⏰ HONDA EF9 CIVIC SI - JDM B18C5
                          ☠️BMW E36 318i - Ford 5.0 FE302                                                         🚴‍♂️ GT-Labomba - 26x2.75 Freeride
                          🤹‍♀️SOLD BMW E36/7 Z3 - BMW M54B25                                                🧓SOLD BMW E10 2002 - BMW M10M05

                          1 Reply Last reply
                          0
                          • SteelBlueS
                            SteelBlueS
                            SteelBlue
                            wrote on last edited by
                            #235

                            GunMetalGrey said:

                            Meh, it's only 7 or so wires that you need to bridge. 
                            Don't trust wire colors, only trust pin numbers. Two ETM's, some crimps, wire stripper/cutter, and you're good to go! 

                            Jdesign said:

                            You mean "deceiving".

                            It looks worse than it is. Just take some tape and label each wire before you begin, before you know it you will be done. 

                            You grossly underestimate my fear of wires...and my lack of knowledge of them. This will be a bridge that I’ll cross when I get there 😣

                            Putting the motor in the car with or without the wiring harness attached? I think for shear ease of putting it in the car it would be easier without, but might be more difficult hooking some things up once it’s in? Would like some feedback from those who have experience.

                            Made a ton of progress tonight.5E867BD1-4BAB-4C02-8498-01FBE2DA1824.jpeg

                            I installed the new VANOS oil line.

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                            0
                            • jc43089J
                              jc43089J
                              jc43089
                              wrote on last edited by
                              #236

                              Lookin purdy!

                              I usually remove/install the engine with the wiring harness installed.  The beauty of the BMW design is that the wiring harness is easily unplugged from the body and can come out with the engine.  It is easier to get everything connected properly out of the car.

                              2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
                              3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
                              '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

                              '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

                              '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
                              '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
                              '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

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                              0
                              • GunMetalGreyG
                                GunMetalGreyG
                                GunMetalGrey
                                wrote on last edited by
                                #237

                                I usually drop them in without the harness or intake manifold lately. 
                                There aren't that many connections and it makes getting them in and hooked up quite easy.

                                ...

                                1 Reply Last reply
                                0
                                • jc43089J
                                  jc43089J
                                  jc43089
                                  wrote on last edited by
                                  #238

                                  I should have specified, harness installed but not intake manifold.  Always install the exhaust manifolds before, it is a pain to install after the engine is in.

                                  2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
                                  3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
                                  '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

                                  '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

                                  '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
                                  '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
                                  '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

                                  1 Reply Last reply
                                  0
                                  • SteelBlueS
                                    SteelBlueS
                                    SteelBlue
                                    wrote on last edited by
                                    #239

                                    Been waiting on this hardline for almost 2 weeks now from ECS. On their site it said ships in 3 days. Was then told after ordering it has to come from Germany so it will be like a week. Just asked again today and they said it would take 3 weeks and it hasn't even shipped.

                                    Cancelled and ordered through the dealer which will be 1 week from today. Taking @GunMetalGrey advice on that type of stuff from now on.

                                    1 Reply Last reply
                                    0
                                    • EarlE
                                      EarlE
                                      Earl
                                      wrote on last edited by
                                      #240

                                      The dealer is definitely faster and you don't have to pay shipping for anything👍

                                      museum sig 2earl.jpg

                                      1 Reply Last reply
                                      2
                                      • EarlE
                                        EarlE
                                        Earl
                                        wrote on last edited by
                                        #241

                                        Plus you get a discount with a CCA membership that makes getting one more than worth it

                                        museum sig 2earl.jpg

                                        1 Reply Last reply
                                        2
                                        • SteelBlueS
                                          SteelBlueS
                                          SteelBlue
                                          wrote on last edited by
                                          #242

                                          Earl said:

                                          The dealer is definitely faster and you don't have to pay shipping for anything👍

                                          Earl said:

                                          Plus you get a discount with a CCA membership that makes getting one more than worth it

                                          Definitely will be doing this from now on. And I will have to look into that.

                                          My current question/issue involves the throttle body.

                                          Deleting coolant lines to the TB. Where do I need to block this off on the motor so that I don't have coolant pouring out somewhere? Is it the one of the openings on the head? Is this where I would run the E30 brown top coolant sensor? Car will not be run in cold enough temperatures for this to be useful and I want to delete/clean up as much unnecessary stuff as possible.

                                          edit** Looks like bypassing it is the way to do it? Taken from this thread

                                          image.png

                                          image.png

                                          CCV delete. I removed the diaphragm/cone circle thing(pictured below). Which leaves this hole in the bottom of the manifold(circled in red). I've watched this video which essentially shows plugging where this used to go in the manifold. Can I do this? Is there a "proper" way to do this?

                                          RNuGDj4.jpg

                                          CZhnujF.jpg?2

                                          Are yellow and blue lines in this related to CCV?

                                          Can I run one of those small air filters on the crank case opening at the front of the motor? Or simply just run a hose to somewhere on the block where it will vent to the atmosphere? I was talking some of this over with @GunMetalGrey but he is not as familiar with OBD2 manifolds.

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