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  • JdesignJ
    JdesignJ
    Jdesign
    wrote on last edited by
    #102

    Coilover collars?

    WD40 wont help much for penetrate. Grease or anti-seize would help about 1% on those ball joints. I assume by the time you revisit those anything you put in there will be gone.

    SumBunny.jpg

    https://www.instagram.com/_jdesigner_/                                          http://nevertoolow.tumblr.com/

    🥳SOLD BMW E24 633CSI - BMW M30B32                                          🧪SOLD HCH  ES9 - 1.3 LDA
    👽BMW E30 325IC - Toyota 1JZ-GTE                                                     ⏰ HONDA EF9 CIVIC SI - JDM B18C5
    ☠️BMW E36 318i - Ford 5.0 FE302                                                         🚴‍♂️ GT-Labomba - 26x2.75 Freeride
    🤹‍♀️SOLD BMW E36/7 Z3 - BMW M54B25                                                🧓SOLD BMW E10 2002 - BMW M10M05

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    • SteelBlueS
      SteelBlueS
      SteelBlue
      wrote on last edited by
      #103

      Jdesign said:

      Coilover collars?

      WD40 wont help much for penetrate. Grease or anti-seize would help about 1% on those ball joints. I assume by the time you revisit those anything you put in there will be gone.

      Apparently I didn't attach the picture. 

      It's number 6 in this diagram. That threaded collar thing that holds the strut in the strut housing. Not sure what the best way is to loosen this up. I've read pipe wrench or channel locks.

      image.png

      image.png

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      • jc43089J
        jc43089J
        jc43089
        wrote on last edited by
        #104

        If you totally can't get it off you can always cut a slit in it to split it and get a new one.  Rather than damaging the strut housing trying to get it off.

        2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
        3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
        '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

        '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

        '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
        '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
        '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

        1 Reply Last reply
        1
        • SteelBlueS
          SteelBlueS
          SteelBlue
          wrote on last edited by
          #105

          jc43089 said:

          If you totally can't get it off you can always cut a slit in it to split it and get a new one.  Rather than damaging the strut housing trying to get it off.

          This is what it currently looks like. Not sure where to cut to get access that would alleviate the situation. Maybe cutting the top off and then cutting it from the inside? Would like to bet to just unscrew it. Gonna try a pipe wrench, heat, and some PB blaster or something.

          ?ui=2&ik=183ae23c86&view=fimg&th=1649411

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          0
          • m42b32M
            m42b32M
            m42b32
            wrote on last edited by
            #106

            The collars on my strut towers were pretty stuck, and a channel locks just chewed up the outside flange, didn't have a big enough pipe wrench, and I was scared to do any cutting. I secured housings in a bench vice so that they couldn't rotate, and used a chisel punch and a BFH after some extensive PB blaster soaking. You can get the corner of the punch into one of the holes on the collar nut, point it in the direction that your hammering will unscrew it, and then it should break loose with a few good whacks. 

            image.png

            1991 318is, 1991 318i, 2022 Bronco

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            0
            • SteelBlueS
              SteelBlueS
              SteelBlue
              wrote on last edited by
              #107

              m42b32 said:

              The collars on my strut towers were pretty stuck, and a channel locks just chewed up the outside flange, didn't have a big enough pipe wrench, and I was scared to do any cutting. I secured housings in a bench vice so that they couldn't rotate, and used a chisel punch and a BFH after some extensive PB blaster soaking. You can get the corner of the punch into one of the holes on the collar nut, point it in the direction that your hammering will unscrew it, and then it should break loose with a few good whacks. 

              image.png

              I will have to double check, but the collar didn’t look like it have any holes or anything in it. Just like a thin hex pattern on the top of threaded part. I saw a video of someone doing the hammer method, but it looked like the collar had a groove in it that was design for that.

              1 Reply Last reply
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              • straight6pwrS
                straight6pwrS
                straight6pwr
                wrote on last edited by
                #108

                removal of my e34 stuck collars:

                ShUppiy.jpg'

                the wheel/tire is key. you can stand on it while you turn the pipe wrench.

                Dan
                yajsYRL.jpg.e5f350b4dfe961d76ac8b32efce2e1a6.jpg

                1 Reply Last reply
                1
                • m42b32M
                  m42b32M
                  m42b32
                  wrote on last edited by
                  #109

                  straight6pwr said:

                  removal of my e34 stuck collars:

                  ShUppiy.jpg'

                  the wheel/tire is key. you can stand on it why you turn the pipe wrench.

                  That's a really good idea with the wheel attached! No chance for damaging the strut by clamping it in something either

                  1991 318is, 1991 318i, 2022 Bronco

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                  0
                  • jc43089J
                    jc43089J
                    jc43089
                    wrote on last edited by
                    #110

                    SteelBlue said:

                    This is what it currently looks like. Not sure where to cut to get access that would alleviate the situation. Maybe cutting the top off and then cutting it from the inside? Would like to bet to just unscrew it. Gonna try a pipe wrench, heat, and some PB blaster or something.

                    ?ui=2&ik=183ae23c86&view=fimg&th=1649411

                    I thought it threaded on the outside, my bad.  Don't pay attention to the e36 guy...

                    2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
                    3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
                    '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

                    '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

                    '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
                    '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
                    '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

                    1 Reply Last reply
                    1
                    • SteelBlueS
                      SteelBlueS
                      SteelBlue
                      wrote on last edited by
                      #111

                      straight6pwr said:

                      removal of my e34 stuck collars:

                      ShUppiy.jpg'

                      the wheel/tire is key. you can stand on it while you turn the pipe wrench.

                      The wheel is a very good idea. I'll be picking up a pipe wrench on the way home from work, my brother is PB blasting the collars right now to get ahead start. What size pipe wrench by the way? That red one on the ground looks like the Harbor freight one I was looking at.

                      Do my eyes deceive me or is the wrench attached to jack handle with duct tape and hose clamps? lol

                      Also, would the stock struts be gas ones? Probably not a good idea to use any heat then?

                      1 Reply Last reply
                      0
                      • JdesignJ
                        JdesignJ
                        Jdesign
                        wrote on last edited by
                        #112

                        OHHHH that collar. Yeah, what everyone else said.

                        SumBunny.jpg

                        https://www.instagram.com/_jdesigner_/                                          http://nevertoolow.tumblr.com/

                        🥳SOLD BMW E24 633CSI - BMW M30B32                                          🧪SOLD HCH  ES9 - 1.3 LDA
                        👽BMW E30 325IC - Toyota 1JZ-GTE                                                     ⏰ HONDA EF9 CIVIC SI - JDM B18C5
                        ☠️BMW E36 318i - Ford 5.0 FE302                                                         🚴‍♂️ GT-Labomba - 26x2.75 Freeride
                        🤹‍♀️SOLD BMW E36/7 Z3 - BMW M54B25                                                🧓SOLD BMW E10 2002 - BMW M10M05

                        1 Reply Last reply
                        0
                        • SteelBlueS
                          SteelBlueS
                          SteelBlue
                          wrote on last edited by
                          #113

                          Heat is mans best friend. First strut collar went without issue once I got the 24" pipe wrench around it. Second one put up a little more of a fight, heat and a good amount of persuasion and it came off. Anyone have a part number for those collars? The one got pretty chewed in the process of removing. Heat was also a big help in getting the ball joint stud out of the strut hosing.

                          zVpn1Zh.jpg

                          Once those were out I cleaned them up and got them ready for paint along with the sway bar and subframe. Painting last night:

                          bQRuPlP.jpg

                          Continued drying out in the sun this morning:

                          EcTlwam.jpg

                          Today is my birthday(25, getting old), so...

                          JFyvDWL.gif

                          Not like I haven't already been treating myself with buying this car, an S52, and everything else for it. But that's besides the point...

                          I bought this steering wheel. Think it will look really good in the car, especially when I swap the interior to black. Anyone have any steering hub recommendations? This OMP one looks nice.

                          oEbQEIC.jpg

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                          0
                          • wasnt m3W
                            wasnt m3W
                            wasnt m3
                            wrote on last edited by
                            #114

                            I've had both momo and omp steering wheel hubs. Literally the same part in a different box. Buy whatever one of those costs less.

                            m3sig-1.jpg

                            1 Reply Last reply
                            1
                            • EarlE
                              EarlE
                              Earl
                              wrote on last edited by
                              #115

                              wasnt m3 said:

                              I've had both momo and omp steering wheel hubs. Literally the same part in a different box. Buy whatever one of those costs less.

                              For e36's the omp one actually has rounded pleats but a squared off base where it meets the column. The Momo one has angular pleats but it rounded where it meets the column. I combined the omp rounded boot with my Momo hub to make the hub looks exactly how I wanted in the nice car lol

                              museum sig 2earl.jpg

                              1 Reply Last reply
                              0
                              • wasnt m3W
                                wasnt m3W
                                wasnt m3
                                wrote on last edited by
                                #116

                                Earl said:

                                For e36's the omp one actually has rounded pleats but a squared off base where it meets the column. The Momo one has angular pleats but it rounded where it meets the column. I combined the omp rounded boot with my Momo hub to make the hub looks exactly how I wanted in the nice car lol

                                Thanks for the super anal comparison lol

                                m3sig-1.jpg

                                1 Reply Last reply
                                2
                                • SteelBlueS
                                  SteelBlueS
                                  SteelBlue
                                  wrote on last edited by
                                  #117

                                  wasnt m3 said:

                                  I've had both momo and omp steering wheel hubs. Literally the same part in a different box. Buy whatever one of those costs less.

                                  Nice, likely will order the OMP when I hear back from @patsbimmer1.

                                  Does anyone know if these collars will work if I'm not using Bilstein's? Would like to replace mine as they got kind of chewed removing them. Or are these the correct option?

                                  1 Reply Last reply
                                  1
                                  • SteelBlueS
                                    SteelBlueS
                                    SteelBlue
                                    wrote on last edited by
                                    #118

                                    Made big progress last night. Car is back on the ground. Got the entire front end put together minus the sway bar.

                                    Getting the steering rack in was big as I thought that was gonna be a big issue. Brake booster just needs to be moved and then it should be ready for the motor.

                                    I was an idiot and didn't realize that JOM provides new collars for the strut housings until I did some research. Was super releived because I didn't have to use the old shitty ones and the fact that they didn't fit and thought I wasn't gonna be able to make any other progress.

                                    If you need center a control arm bushing in a lollipop, an E30 brake rotor, some wood, and a hammer works. That also goes for pushing them onto the control arm.

                                    This height is with no weight on it, when my buddy got in it lowered a bit but hes probably half the weight of the motor. Big tings soon come.

                                    NFV6XRs.jpg

                                    7LtCn4g.jpg

                                    1 Reply Last reply
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                                    • suspencefulS
                                      suspencefulS
                                      suspenceful
                                      wrote on last edited by
                                      #119

                                      Lookin' good! Knowing you, I'm surprised you haven't scrubbed the engine bay clean yet.

                                      🎬 YouTube channel (60K+ subs): youtube.com/jakespence135
                                      📷 Follow me on Instagram: instagram.com/jakespence
                                      🏁 Shop BMW merchandise: bimmerstreet.com

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                                      1
                                      • YoungCRY
                                        YoungCRY
                                        YoungCR
                                        wrote on last edited by
                                        #120

                                        Wheels look good! This thing is coming along nicely 👍🏼

                                        Chris Young
                                        BMWCCA #458972
                                        1986 528e/5  | 1994 530i/5 | 1995 540i/6 | 2013 X5 35d | 1998 C1500 Suburban | 1995 K2500 Suburban

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                                        1
                                        • SteelBlueS
                                          SteelBlueS
                                          SteelBlue
                                          wrote on last edited by
                                          #121

                                          suspenceful said:

                                          Lookin' good! Knowing you, I'm surprised you haven't scrubbed the engine bay clean yet.

                                          I’m probably gonna wheel it out to scrub it down soon after I move the brake booster. I did an inital spray down before doing work on it, but it was just to remove the main grease and what not. I think they’re some brackets that I can cut and shave as well.

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