5 speeds, 4 cylinders, 3 doors, 2 wheel drive, and 1 loose nut behind the wheel
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FYI, e46 seats will bolt in directly. I've seen quite a few decent deals on sport seats. Much more comfortable than any e30 or e36 seat. I've got a set of e46 m3 seats that will be for sale that have all of the electronics sorted for plug and play already. Not sure that you'd want to spend that kind of money, however.
Those would probably look more at home in there than the e30 seats. I might see if I can find one to try out. Is there any difference between the M3 seats and "regular" sport seats?
These look pretty nice, but it looks like the guy doesn't really do them anymore:
https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=359721
I do kind of prefer cloth. Mechanical adjustment is also a big bonus over electric for me.
Hadn't noticed that the price of e30 sport seats has gone completely insane on ebay. I could probably find another pair of e21 Recaros for less
...or a brand-new pair of GTS-IIs for that matter.
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I'll have to look again but I saw some E46 sport seats (black) for sale somewhere for something in the area of $200 and they were in good shape.
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I found a pair here for $275. Might be okay after a thorough cleaning.
https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/ank/pts/d/2005-bmw-330xi-parts-car-or/6252890049.html
Hasn't turned up much for me yet, but this is an interesting resource:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Recaro#Cars_with_OEM-installed_Recaro_seats
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Cheap e36 sport seats https://eauclaire.craigslist.org/pts/d/e36-bmw-black-seats/6291827708.html
30 mins from me.
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You'll want to find coupe seats so you can flip them forward
That's what the hatch is for
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I have an ultra-gauge for my M3 and its been an awesome purchase. Gives you a live readout of a lot of the sensor data used by the ECU including engine coolant temp, intake temp, throttle position, O2 sensor voltages, etc. You can set audible alarms for things as well which is super useful for keeping an eye on your coolant temps. More improtantly, it can also read and clear check engine lights!
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You can even go to any auto store and have them scan it for free
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I have an ultra-gauge for my M3 and its been an awesome purchase. Gives you a live readout of a lot of the sensor data used by the ECU including engine coolant temp, intake temp, throttle position, O2 sensor voltages, etc. You can set audible alarms for things as well which is super useful for keeping an eye on your coolant temps. More improtantly, it can also read and clear check engine lights!
This is really sweet for the price!
https://www.instagram.com/_jdesigner_/ http://nevertoolow.tumblr.com/
🥳SOLD BMW E24 633CSI - BMW M30B32 🧪SOLD HCH ES9 - 1.3 LDA
👽BMW E30 325IC - Toyota 1JZ-GTE ⏰ HONDA EF9 CIVIC SI - JDM B18C5
☠️BMW E36 318i - Ford 5.0 FE302 🚴♂️ GT-Labomba - 26x2.75 Freeride
🤹♀️SOLD BMW E36/7 Z3 - BMW M54B25 🧓SOLD BMW E10 2002 - BMW M10M05 -
This is really sweet for the price!
Yeah! Its not the most quality construction (housing is a little flimsy and the buttons on the back arent great) but it works really well and you definitely can't complain at that price. I would 11/10 buy another without thinking twice.
They occasionally have sales (at least they did when I got mine two-ish years ago, not sure now) for 5-10 off too
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Finally got the car registered and did some driving. It did pretty well, but the chassis isn't exactly confidence-inspiring with bad subframe bushings. Also had some shimmy through the steering wheel and vibration that feels like a wheel out of balance.
Got the car up in the air at the shop and was still really impressed with how clean the undercarriage is. No rust surprises at all. Giubo looked great. Fuel filter has definitely been changed and looked relatively new. Exhaust is solid, although seems to be missing a hanger somewhere (no support at all between the header and the rear subframe). Trans-mount bushings are super soft and need to be replaced. Insulation in the front of the tunnel is drooping and wore the paint off the driveshaft. All-in-all, not bad at all.
Also did a quick alignment using the string method. Had almost 3/8" of toe-in on the front. Dialed it back to about 1/3rd that amount. That took care of about 80% of the shimmy and the car feels less dart-y now. There's still definitely something amiss in the rear. So far, I like the car and am hoping to have it far a few years, so I'm currently planing on dropping the subframe and doing all-of-the-things "while I'm in there".
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Picked up a nicer set of seats from Earl. Not my first choice in terms of comfort or support, but I do like the fabric pattern, and mechanical adjustment. Regardless, it's a big improvement over what was in there...
Also picked up and UltraGauge to check out the codes. I had a catalyst efficiency code, and a camshaft position sensor "pending" code, After clearing them, they stayed off for a couple days, but both have come back now. Unfortunately, M42 and M44 camshaft sensors are different, so I can't just swap it out with one I already have. I'm a bit concerned that it might be worn timing components, and not the sensor itself...
After driving around with the UltraGauge plugged in waiting for the codes to come back, I also discovered that the engine was running cold. It seemed to take a long time to heat up, and never seemed to get over 175 degrees. I put new thermostat in yesterday, and it's now running steady at about 208. The old thermostat looked to be relatively new and in good shape, so I think it may have just been a lower temperature unit. I seem to recall that being a thing that's recommended for high-mileage engines, but can't remember and haven't bothered to look it up yet...
Found some janky car-audio guy stuff going on with the rear speakers (gotta love the "twist and tape" soldering technique). Got that semi-fixed up. Also did the most glamorous and exciting car mod out there... cabin air filter replacement. Boom!
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