the one and only e30 s52 engine swap

[m42b32]

KaiserRolls said:

7/8 - mine were cake, and I have a rusty shitbox

7/9. Mine came out fairly easily once I figured out the 5/8" lag-bolt, 1/2" steel rod, and a BFH trick. 

Sounds like the best option for getting them out if a bolt and hammer doesn't work is just keep chipping away with drills and dremel bits...good luck!

[GunMetalGrey]

stealthbimmer said:

These guys work wonders for rounded bolts. If you dont have a set, you are welcome to borrow mine. 

I have a set, and you are correct, they save lives. 

The Bentley manual (E36) is perfect for how to time the M5x/S5x motors. Just ask @KaiserRolls, it's a good reference.

[B C]

The spot where the Bentley wasn't clear enough for me is the primary exhaust sprocket position and the timing chain tensioner.

Maybe im remembering wrong and its very clear in the Bentley but my biggest question was WHEN to reinstall the chain tensioner/torque the primary exhaust sprocket bolts and also the relative position of the holes/slots

[AsparagusMike]

Jdesign said:

Also I am curious as to why you have a build thread here and not in the "members BMWs" section? I always forget this thread exists.

I honestly don't know. There a way to move this thread over to there?

[Jdesign]

AsparagusMike said:

I honestly don't know. There a way to move this thread over to there?

@YoungCR Would know if that's possible.

[B C]

I already moved it, JDizzle [emoji16]

[YoungCR]

Snap said:

I already moved it, JDizzle

Thanks Brain

[Jdesign]

Snap said:

I already moved it, JDizzle

[AsparagusMike]

So I went over to the shop this afternoon to mess around with the motor for a few hours and maybe get the thing timed. Everything was going smooth as can be, everything smooth as can.....

Its the longest of the 2 bolts that hold the upper chain guide in place. This occurred after threading it into the hole by hand and then having to use a ratchet to get the bolt back out because of suspicion (I should also add that I had put some lubrication on the threads before installing it). Now I'm trying to figure out what I'm gonna do to fix the threads that are screwed up in there. I'm gonna go get myself another bolt on Tuesday and hope that some miracle happens cause I have no idea how I could fit a tap or a thread chaser down that deep of a hole to fix the threads, unless there is a tool for this particular type of thing that I just don't know about.

[jc43089]

Weld an "extension" onto a tap or thread chaser.  A thread chaser would probably be better because aluminum cuts so easy.

[Jdesign]

jc43089 said:

Weld an "extension" onto a tap or thread chaser.  A thread chaser would probably be better because aluminum cuts so easy.

This!^

I would suggest using a bolt.

[AsparagusMike]

Lame update. Just to keep the thread alive.

Moved old motor out of the shop into storage, where it will continue to leak its oil everywhere.

Focused on the engine bay today:

Pulled Front valence off.

pulled master cylinder and booster as well as the throttle cable. Does the M42 throttle cable long enough for the swap or am I still gonna need an e34 one?

Moved all the wiring over by the fuse box out of the engine bay.

Vacuumed.

\

Had a good time figuring out how to press the wheel bearings out of the trailing arms. Only got the hubs out today. Misplaced my snap ring pliers somewhere and after about an hour of searching the entire shop I called her a night.

Got a new bolt for the motor. Also in the process of getting the shit bolt and tap welded together, thank you for that idea by the way! Will have that done tomorrow. Just hoping I manage to save the threads enough for them to be effective.

[B C]

I have read that the M42 cable works fine

[GunMetalGrey]

AsparagusMike said:

So I went over to the shop this afternoon to mess around with the motor for a few hours and maybe get the thing timed. Everything was going smooth as can be, everything smooth as can.....

Its the longest of the 2 bolts that hold the upper chain guide in place. 

So this bolt runs down and fastens to the timing cover (aluminum). These are quite common to strip and are certainly a pain to deal with. 
I don't think you will get the threads to take with a new bolt, though it's an easy thing to try. 
I've had this happen a couple times (don't go by the book spec, it's too much) and I started putting inserts in them before assembly to cover my ass. 

Pulling the timing cover off is my advice if you want to be proper. 
Loosen up the head, pull the jesus bolt, loosen the pan, and you can slide the cover out and use inserts.

[AsparagusMike]

Trialing arm bearings out as well as everything else that was still on them. Taking everything in to get blasted tomorrow and then reinforcement time.

Rear firewall soundproofing rubberish thingy removed as well as the heat shield underneath it revealing some glorious surprises.

Got an angle grinder with a wire wheel sitting on the bench, yets see where that gets me tomorrow.

On another note...

I completely forgot to mention it but I did end up getting the e36 m3 steering rack.

Yes the rack is in pretty rough shape right now but after a reseal kit and a little TLC I think it'll turnout alright.

Didn't mention this yet but I am planning on repainting the engine bay. Still deciding on what color to go with though.

[KaiserRolls]

I’m sure you will, but check the front subframe closely for cracks. I found a couple in my old one before I replaced it

[AsparagusMike]

GunMetalGrey said:

So this bolt runs down and fastens to the timing cover (aluminum). These are quite common to strip and are certainly a pain to deal with. 
I don't think you will get the threads to take with a new bolt, though it's an easy thing to try. 
I've had this happen a couple times (don't go by the book spec, it's too much) and I started putting inserts in them before assembly to cover my ass. 

Pulling the timing cover off is my advice if you want to be proper. 
Loosen up the head, pull the jesus bolt, loosen the pan, and you can slide the cover out and use inserts. 

Welp, the tap and die failed. I guess you were right Ben.

Although the tap and bolt welded together was a really good idea that did work by cleaning up the threads, It was at a point where they were no longer really savable.

So Saturday I pulled the timing cover on the motor.

This morning I ordered new timing cover gaskets, steering rack reseal kit, rear wheel bearings, last of the gaskets I need for the motor as well as a few other things to keep me busy.

Gonna head in to auto zone this morning and find myself a helicoil kit and then I'll be on my way.

On another note...

I haves a question.

What I want is to get rid of that charcoal canister and with it the fuel line that runs to it from the gas tank. The canister itself is pretty much shot and the fuel line running to it is rusty as can be. I honestly don't want to pay to order another line and canister when the only purpose for it is to lower emissions.

Can I just delete the system back to the tank, run a tube with the purge valve attached to it off of that piece, tuck it away and let it vent to atmosphere? Not sure how it would but will that cause a vacuum build up in the tank?

I also know of the other method people chose to do which is simply deleting the canister leaving the purge valve between the two lines running to the the throttle body. Other people also commented that this will cause a vacuum build up in the tank.

What have you guys done for this part of the car?

Thx!

[AsparagusMike]

Ya, so things have been a happenin...

By the way, thx for the tip on that bolt extractor kit for getting the last bolt out on the gas tank. Worked like a charm.

As well as the rest of the aluminum subframe sleeve... To get it out I used a tig torch set on AC (usually used for welding aluminum) and it pretty much just heated up really fast and blasted it out all at the same time.

After getting that done, I was able to pull all the rest of the brake and fuel lines which I should say were very crusty and in dyer need of replacement.

In fact once I started to pop the fuel lines out of the brackets they immediately started to leak in 3 different spots. Gonna be replacing all the lines with copper nickel line 5/16 for the fuel and 3/16 for the brake.  Ordered a bubble flaring kit from Matco the other day. Hoping to see it here Monday or Tuesday.

For the interior, as you've seen above I got the dash and carpet pulled. Carpet is a nasty mess ,  Gonna try cleaning it today back at home and see how she looks. Not really sure about dying the carpet as I am a little leery about how it may hold up over time. Also came upon a website while researching carpets for bmw's called stockinteriors.com. They will make a molded carpet with the foam for an e30 for about 170 bucks, only thing I would have to do is cut in the necessary holes for it to fit, something I may have to consider if the original carpet doesn't work out.

As for the dash, Got it completely dissembled last, dremeled out all of the cracks with a grinding stone. Will begin body filling the cracks tonight and sand it down. Order dash flocking kit, check.

Also started to clean all the foam for sealing the duck work. Anyone know where I can get a good replacement for that kind of stuff?

And onto the rust repair...

So far this is all that I was able to get done for repair so far. Tough thing I learned my lesson from is the fact I decided to use 12 gauge steel instead of something a bit liter like 16 or 18. It still ended up turning out alright and welded up nicely with just a few issues where the amperage was to high and burned holes in the original body metal because of how much thinner it was. Will clean it up a bit more with a paddle wheel and paint on the por-15.

There are about three more spots that need to be cut and welded up with new metal on the passenger side floor panel. After that, on to the driver side which I have began cutting out where the rust has ate through.

After learning my lesson, gonna be using something a bit liter on this side like 18 gauge. Gonna weld much better to the original metal and bend nicer.

A couple other things done... removed the entire airbag system and got the hole drilled, tapped, and helicoiled on the timing cover.

Still waiting on new gaskets to reinstall it as well as hand full of other parts including all new 95a poly bushings, motor mounts, and trans mounts from revshift! Still waiting on my frames to get blasted which were suppose to be done this last Friday but it seems everyone I have been getting work done by recently have been telling me they would get it done by this time and end up not having it done when I call them on that date, some people's kids I tell ya.

[KaiserRolls]

Awesome progress!
As far as the purge valve stuff goes, I let that line vent to atmosphere & have the purge valve still connected to the harness, just let that hang out wherever

[Earl]

You can buy those HVAC gaskets new from the dealer. Check realoem.com for the part number